Buying a GQ, what to look out for?

Hey legends,

I've got the 4wd bug and now looking at buying my first proper 4wd. I thought the best place to start would be with a GQ for their reputation as been solid and bullet proof. I have looked around and see many examples ranging from $4000-$10,000 with varying degrees of modifications on them. From the research I've done the 4.2 in either petrol or diesel seems a good buy. I want to have a lift kit, snorkel and good set of tyres to start of with whether I buy it like that or do those things myself.

What things should I look out for on a GQ to see if its in good nick or not?

And what are some tasteful modifications I can do to it to make a good all round 4wd? I want a good balance of been tame enough on the road (will be driven 2-3 days a week) but capable enough on some decent tracks?

Cheers fellas, looking forward to starting this new project.

The thing to watch out for in GQ's is Rust in Roof Gutters and also the sliding rear Windows.
I would go for the 4.2 Diesel as they are a great Motor and can be Turboed .
The Gq's are tough bastards.
a 2" lift should be all you need and that is legal.
Best of luck with your search

Here goes:

Check for rust in roof gutters, door sills and jams, front and rear of front guard, rear sliding windows, and back of rear wheel arch where the mudflaps join. Check over all body and chassis - but they're the known hot spots.

Obviously a log book is good to check service history, but scan engine bay, engine, transmission and transfer case for signs of oil leaks (either present or past). If old oil is present, try to find out what went and what was done to repair.

Check steering pump for signs of weeping.

Shocks and suspension in general isn't too much of a concern - either its stock and/or old, and as per your list, you'll be replacing it anyway, or it's new and in which case, simply check over all joins, rubbers, and bushes on the steering arm (draglink), tie rod, panhards, radius arms on the front (chassis and axle bushes), upper and lower control arms in the rear - check brake lines have been extended if lifted, and that the rear brake proportioning valve has been lifted the same height as the suspension.

Check swivel hubs, trunion seal (the one on the ball and knuckle joint of the swivel arm), and hubs for any sign of leaking. Lock and unlock hubs if manual setup - should be finger firm, but smooth to move.

Check all electrics - everything! Aerial if it's electric, windows, mirrors, air con, fan switches, indicators, lights (parkers, low and high beam), interior lights, dash lights, cigarette lighter, etc, etc - may only be a fuse or something simple, but always good to have "oh, that switch needs replacing" up your sleeve for when the money comes out to pay (I.e. haggle!).

Start engine and check for obvious signs of water and/or smoke through the exhaust - some evaporation is normal (especially on lpg and water cooled head setups). Idle is smooth, and no 'hiccups' or hesitancy through the rev range.

Check gearbox for smooth changes, and try putting into 4H and 4L to ensure transfer case smooth also.

Others will no doubt have advice here also mate - good luck with it, and for under $10K you should be able to score a decent clean truck with which to start.

We'll deal with suspension etc once you've found the blank canvas!! lol

Yeah I feel a bit of a legend sometimes..?????

Mate there are many options for you in the GQ range and you can find yourself a tidy example with some of the mods you want...

There have been a couple of brilliant ones on here for sale not long ago.

Stay away from the ones that look like some young bloke has owned it and given it a thrashing.

My one ticked all the right boxes with 2 inch lift new, Km2 muddies in 33, snorkel, cage, fridge, bar, winch, side protection, uhf, lights.

There are going to be things needed of course with a car this age.

Find out when all the oils were last changed as that alone comes to about $300.

If you go on a test drive make sure you get up to highway speed and see if there is any steering shakes, a lot get a shake around 70kmh and also around 110kmh.

You should not be rushed as there are so many and it is a buyers market.

If you find one that ticks all the right boxes look at getting a pre purchase done on it as $120 spent could save you thousands...

Agree with everyone when saying check the body for rust, elecs working etc but also check that the Xfer case is working by finding a dirt track, putting it into low range and try turning in a circle. Wheels should sort of grip onto the gravel and you should see where the tyres have gripped. Or if it's manual drop the clutch and you should see 2 clear skid marks on the dirt. Had a landlooser (landcruiser) b4 my GQ and the xfer case was stuffed. Didnt know until i tried to climb a hill and lets say it wasnt easy coming backwards!:jawdrop: Good luck!

I would also say to look at the overall condition of the interior as well.

This normally gives you a good clue as to how well a car has been treated otherwise.

A clean car on the inside, and I mean a lack of scratches, broken plastics and holes drilled everywhere, will normally give you the idea that the original owner has cared for the car, and if they care for the inside, they most probably care for the outside and mechanicals.

I filthy interior with no respect for the fixed items like the dash, and rooflinings doesn't necessarily mean that the mechanics haven't been looked after, but gives you an indication of the original owner's idea of looking after valuable items.

with the 4.2 diesel the tappets need adjusting every 20k. the injector pump likes to leak. if the servicing was poor at the start of its life the valve train will have serious wear.

A lot of guys have had problems with the autos - cost around 3K for a rebuild

The 4.2 on petrol will give head problems

I have a 4.2 ccarby dual fuel and very happy. I have mounted a winch behind the alloy bar (using a tigerz11 cradle) and fitted a 2 inch lift. The only thing I dont like is the gas tank hangs down a bit. My old mk had the tank next to the drive shaft - did not hang. There is a lot more power compared to the RB30 that I had in my MK

i just baught mine for 9500 and it looked perfect to ME! little hickups to my 97 2.8td 200k are a leaking turbo (that a catchcan will fix) and door locks that i fixed at home for no cost, for 10k you will pickup a great car just keep looking and DONT RUSH be willing to travel also but good luck and research research research what ever you bye you will always find something that you didnt pickup on inspection :)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...s-green-goblin

can i add something here ,just bought a 94 GQ 4.2 diesel turbo factory auto its got 219### on the clock looks like it just came from the showroom floor inside and out has some mods on it as well all for under 12k is this a good buy ?? also they tell me factory auto 4.2 diesels are rare is this true .

mudmav

Yeah sounds like a decent car, iv never heard of a factory turbo td42 in oz so that's pretty rare. Just look out for rust

Great hints, thanks to all

Some people say that we can find good tb42 with 150000 kms for 2000$, it sounds really wierd to me

What was said before just about sums it up. Do some research on repairs/parts to help when negotiating the price.

I think the TD42 auto sounds like a retro fit diesel engine after a failed petrol motor!!

I was lucky enough to get my 1996 GQ 4.2 diesel for 600 dollars, and that included the train fair there to get it.
It was an MOT failure, that's the UK road safety test basically. So I knew it was a gamble. The main reason it was cheap was it wouldn't rev over 2200 RPM or 55 miles an hour. A right pain of a drive home but turned out to be a leaky fuel line :)
A little bit of welding later and I got the MOT passed and have driven it for the last two years no dramas at all ;)
I offroad with it most weekends and only now do I have to sort the swivels.
Awesome truck and rare over here , I love it :-)

Door hinges are a common problem, eBay hinges seem to be rubbish but the original hinges can be rebuilt with genuine brass bushes.

rust in rear tank/shock cross member

Rust in upper firewall is common too, around the gutter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by koliilok

Door hinges are a common problem, eBay hinges seem to be rubbish but the original hinges can be rebuilt with genuine brass bushes.

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the ferret does a rebuild on door hinges for the GQ, He done some for mine a couple of years ago and they are still great, just do a search for "the ferret", he's on here somewhere if anyone needs em.
Good price and he does em right.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by happygu

I would also say to look at the overall condition of the interior as well.

This normally gives you a good clue as to how well a car has been treated otherwise.

A clean car on the inside, and I mean a lack of scratches, broken plastics and holes drilled everywhere, will normally give you the idea that the original owner has cared for the car, and if they care for the inside, they most probably care for the outside and mechanicals.

I filthy interior with no respect for the fixed items like the dash, and rooflinings doesn't necessarily mean that the mechanics haven't been looked after, but gives you an indication of the original owner's idea of looking after valuable items.

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Do you want to buy an immaculate 4.2 diesel never been messed around with Ph 0458106121

Don't rush. Do some ads hunting and beware of recently painted GQ. Mine was recently painted. Found out it had a pretty bad rust on roof gutter and around both rear fenders. Busted power window and cig lighter, clock and clunky gear change, especially 1st to 2nd gear. I totally swear it wasn't there before! (Yeah right) i blame it on the alcohol

Look out for rust...everywhere! The chassis on the Q's are prone to rust I found a good one and had the chassis sprayed with a bitumised coating for extra protection. If it's done a lot of beach work have a look under the floor mats where sand likes to accumulate and eat the floor pans if not cleaned regularly.