As I change over my Patrols every 75 to 100,000km, does anyone know about engine and clutch problems after 150,000km.
I plan to keep my present 2009 beast. It's not an off roader but a tow vehicle for both a caravan and horse float.
Printable View
As I change over my Patrols every 75 to 100,000km, does anyone know about engine and clutch problems after 150,000km.
I plan to keep my present 2009 beast. It's not an off roader but a tow vehicle for both a caravan and horse float.
Is your Patrol a DI or CRD motor?
Tony
Tony, it will be a CRD.
So far, not many problems associated with the CRD’s, although not too many will have covered 150K yet.
Clutch life seems to have more to do with how the car is driven, but having said that adding a chip or gas should help to improve it.
I should have paid more attention to the year!
Tony
I personally know of 3 2005 models that have suffered the grenade syndrome and quite a few head problems (cracking) with them as well as a few other issues also. I haven’t heard of any typical ZD30 problems with the 2006 model yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
There were only minor changes made after Oct 02 and a few others made after Oct 04. Contrary to popular belief, there was never a bigger sump, only a shorter dipstick, which was done around July 2000 to increase oil capacity from around 5.5 to 8.2 litres.
The major change was with the CRD having an EGR cooler, new head design and fuel system, but the bottom end is still much the same.
Sorry mate, not trying to be pedantic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
I have 3 ZD30 sumps at home, a 2000, a 2001 and a 2002 and they are all identical. Every ZD30 sump that I have looked at has been the same and there have been many right up to the current (2010) model that I worked on last weekend.
I think some where along the line, when it was suggested that the oil capacity was increased, people just assumed that it was done with a larger sump. There was a documented recall when the dipsticks were replaced on early 2000 models. Since then, to my knowledge anyway, there haven’t been any other changes to the oil system other than the bulletin which suggested the use of 10 weight oil over 15 weight oil.
Reducing the sump capacity makes no sense because the main objective is to keep the crank above the oil level while ensuring there’s enough oil to supply the demand over it’s rev range and keep the engine cool. It would seem that the sump already had the capacity but they didn’t use it initially, probably due to cost saving (servicing cost).
Unfortunately there is and will always be misinformation and hearsay floating around, just like the rumour that the ZD30 is a Renault engine.
Cheers,
To all those of you commented, thank you. The engine is coming up to 70k and is still strong. No signs of any clutch problems even though my wife tows a 3 tonne horse float at least once a week. It's serviced every 10k by a reputable dealership. I'm still debating if I'm going to keep it when the lease runs out and get another one, hopefully with the V6 diesel engine.
Engine - no real problems altho there isn't a terrible lot of CRD's getting around with over 150,000 on them yet. Mine is an '07 with 105,000.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBill
Clutch and Dual mass flywheel - Mine is on its third 'set'. Prev owner had it changed at about 40 something and the ones he had fitted let go at 90,000. Nissan said it is because of the extra power from the Chip and Torque trying to get the 33's turning. Not agreeing or disagreeing just sayin'.
Gearbox - 2nd gear synchro has it's moments every now and then when cold otherwise no issues.
Ancillaries - 2nd Alternator, 2nd A/C compressor, 3rd Belt tensioner are all on there now.
Mine does a fair bit of toughish 4WD'ing in hot climate and the first 50,000 saw a LOT of muddy watery goo. I figure that with all the other stuff crapping out if the motor or gearbox was going to it would have done so by now
Just so you know, Our 2004 unit has a blown head as discovered today. It hasn't grenaded.. So appears the 3.0lt will always have some problems, no matter what year.
If I were you I would go for the new (in aussie) old in overseas, V6 motor as they are proven already o/s and are relaible.
Cheers
Rick
Luckilly im not the hypochondriac type. So im gonna read this thread and understand all that is said, but believe and trust in my 02 3L DI. Im a firm believer in treating your pride and joy with more than a bit of love an care, and it will give it back.
Ive had none of the ZD30 woes and couldnt be happier with 1050km per fill up. :)
just out of interest how many km's you got racked up?Quote:
Originally Posted by teleman
BigBill, I've still got my 02 3L and towing horse floats around and have had no probs at all at 220k. The only thing I had to do is a head due to an overflow spigot snapping off the radiator (should of changed radiator after about 6 years) and overheating the engine (thank goodness for limp mode). When the mechanic did the head he checked the clutch and said it was still in good nick.
My 05 model patrol threw its clutch (dual-mass) at 118k kms. Replaced it with a single-mass clutch as the dual-mass clutch is a known weakness.
hey chaz if u have 3 3.0 sumps at home maybe u can tell me how to remove the bastards :) i have an 01 zd30 di and i have removed all the bolts i can see but have seen some nasty rumors that box needs to come out is this true ?
Chaz is not a regular here but may be lurking in the back ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magician
Have you had a search at all Im not sure if this has come up recently
hey Dogz
yes i have searched for a how to on the sump and not found one. Some i have found elsewhere say the box has to come out some say no so looking for something definitive. Sire as hell dont want to pull box out for nothing. I doing sump as part of grenade repair 2 pistons blown days after buying my 01 zd30 di turbo so doing rebuild but hoping to leave block in place. If i had to pull box i would just leave box in and pull block
Magician, yes there are three bolts at the rear of the sump that need to be accessed from in the back, so yes unfortunately the transmission and bell housing need to be removed or at least moved back to access them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magician
Hey Chaz thanks for the info and balls ! being a manual i am guessing the box or motor will have to come out owing to pressure plate. Any idea which manual on here suits my 2001 diesel zd30 di .. i dont seem to get the links come up for me
Sorry, I can't help you with the manual - I haven't downloaded them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magician
It's always easier to pull the engine out to do a rebuild, but if you're just going to replace the pistons, it may be easier to pull the trans out. Either way, one of them will have to come out to remove the sump.
Thanks brother
I had stripped head etc off already so engine it is
Thanks for the advice
I recall that when I needed the timing cover off, (dreaded water leak) first came the sump, then it needed the gearbox removed to get the two back studs. Check a reputable repair manual.