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Hey guys im pressure pack painting my winch bar tomorrow in killrust black i know it says primer not needed but i want to prime it anyway what sort of primer should i use as i havent seen killrust primer in pressure packs just the tins will just an etch primer be okay or do i need something different? thanks guys
EDIT: ment for..lol woops
id kill rust cold gavit for extra protection and also make sure you treat it with a rust converter first to kill any off
and if you use a hammer finish it can mask some surface rust damage/imperfections the bar may have
Fourplay,
You can to get a Kill Rust etch primer in a spray can, when I recently refurbed the rusty steel bits on my ally tray I used it.
Try a larger hardware chain Mitre 10 or Bunnings.
Mark
I'd recommend etch primer over cold galv as a base.
Cold galv can go flaky under a top coat.
Give it a good buff with a 'black Betty' wheel (woven abrasive material wheel) first, don't need to remove all the paint but if you remove a majority of it the primer will work a lot better and finish a lot glossier..
Any good paint store should stock it, but a quick phone call to check is easier..
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...
Check the rust converter is compatable with the paint you want to use, the one I used which works real well is not compatable / recommended with zinc based paints.Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
Dont killrust do their own primers
They do. And it has a light rust converter in it..
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...
cold galvit is a made by killrust-wattyl and they have there own rust converter also i assume it would be compatable with there own products
This is what I used on roof cage then the black kill rust, worked a treat.
If there are any rusty bits on the bar, converter should be used, if only light rust you can get penatrol in a spray can which treats and seals the rusted area
Tap The App
yea x2 on penatrol its good for hard to reach areas
I've been informed if you use an Enamel primer then an enamel top coat
it wont stick.
Enamel and enamel is good.
2 pack and 2 pack is good.
Water based and water based..
You get the idea.
If enamel is used over anything but enamel it won't cure properly and will stay tacky..
I use an etch primer for painting galv or pre- painted steel.
Regular primer, either a galv or red oxide for bare metal, then finish with a gloss top coat or to your liking.
So if galv or pre painted
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/10/44.jpg
If bare steel
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/10/45.jpg
Then topcoat
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/10/46.jpg
All enamel, all good
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...
Wasn't me Big westy I said I was informed, and have strongly passed on what you and I believed was correct in he first place.
Not listening to her any more LOL
Yea yea. I've got it wrong a couple of times when I was younger.. Made a good mess..Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...
Need to change your source td, If that was the case why would they make enamel primer ??
Most paints will take to anything if prep'd right, even though certain applications are not recomended lol,
The only thing ive had issues with over the years is 2pak over enamel "DONT DO IT",
When painting Government house here in Adelaide, they had been using enamel for the last 30yrs and wanted to go 2pak, all prep'd to spec, undercoat to spec, dry time to spec, apply top coat to spec, reaction, lifted 30yrs of enamel. Ouch!!!
This is what you can and cant do.
Enamel will go over anything, 2 pack medium solid, high solid, enamel it's self and acrylic.
acrylic will go over all 2 component products and it's self. It wont go over unhardened enamel.
2 pack in HS and MS will go over it's self and hardened enamel. It wont go over acrylic or unhardened enamel. The reason is acrylic and unhardened enamel never really fully cures and on a hot day will fingerprint. So painting a paint such as 2 pack over the top is like spraying over a jelly surface and as soon as it gets hot the jelly surface moves causing to 2 pack to crack, craze and sometimes solvent boil.
A lot better option then enamel in a can is to use 2 pack with a converter which is available from most automotive paint stores. I have it in common colours and clear which I use a bit for touching up small areas when I cant be stuffed making it up on the machine and putting it though a gun.
Cheers Mick.
thanks for the replys guys it was bare metal apart from one peice but i wire wheeled that back to bare no rust what so ever there was a couple small surface peices but also wire wheeled them scuffed the whole bar right back with the wire wheel also cleaned her up with wax and grease remover and used an enamel primer.
was painted the very next day before i got a chace to get onto my computer so im hopeing it will last well.
everything but the front plate on winch cradle im primer
http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...0/PA100084.jpg
i have to weld on some brackets to mount spoties and 2 aerials on before i start painting the colour on ;)
In a spray can or tin or both??.Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
small hijack.
But if your willing to do this type of work on your car, guess you paint your house to.
Have used the timber penatrol good stuff, Highly recommend for timber work.
Apart from better sealing paint flow much better and far less brush marks.
Enamel and Acrylic use different penatrol additives, they dont mix need correct type.
Yea lol im a renderer I painted my house and alot of other ppls houses
Yer mate comes in both, and no I don't paint my house YET, lol the miss's at me for 2 yrs to do it, AND I am a painter & decorator lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Penatrol is good stuff, increases paint flow and penetration, assures adhesion, prevents peeling, stops rust and controls corrosion. Used with oil based paints I love it, on acrylics I use flotrol or hot weather thinners, same deal, keeps a wet edge for better flow and lays off nicely for a great Finnish.
Beer on Tap
I got some kill rust to treat a spot i found. Bunnings $12.00
I scraped off the ;loose stuff then brushed on the kill rust, and left it to dry. 1 day.
Went back applied more kill rust today after wiping off the white stuff from the kill rust.
When that was dry same process whipe off the white stuff and put etch primer on with a small artists brush.
Over that when it dried i have put 2 coats of touch up paint.
Ill leave it for a while and see how it goes.
Then ill cover it with more touch up paint if it looks ok.
If it dont look the goods ill have to involve an expert.