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Hey Guys,
My GQ has a 3" spring lift and I want to have a go at doing a 2" body lift. Has anyone done this themselves and if so how hard is it to do and what do I need to know to do it properly? Is it basically just a matter of undoing the bolts on the body mounts and jacking up the body until the lift blocks and new bolts go in? Just wondering if it's something that can be done at home or whether it should be a paid job for a pro?
Cheers
Do it yourself easy job to do. Do a search you'll find all the info on here but you have to slot the floor around ya lo range selector might have to lower your radiator gotta release some stuff on the firewall etc what engine you got?
Really easy mate. Knackered now but have a search around on here for a few good posts on Body Lifts. Use the Search in the red banner. If you dont get help i will come back here maybe tomorrow. or pm me and i am happy to talk you through it. BASIC.
Awesome guys thanks for your help I will have a search and see what I can find. And Healy it's a TD42 diesel mate, which is why I'm planning to keep it and build her up :)
If you go ahead with your body lift, all the effort you put into your bullbar will be wasted.
You'll need to make a bracket to lift bullbar, sidesteps and rear bar, 2" as well
most replace sidesteps with sliders
i did mine last week mate was very straight forward
remove all your plastic trims along the edge of the carpet and bottom bolt from the seat belts
peel the carpet back enough to pull the grommets out
loosen all your body bolts
if the back 2 bolts don't come out and just spin get a small sharp drill bit and drill a pilot down the center as straight as possible
now set up to a drill bit the same size or a little bit bigger then your new bolts and carefully drill the bolts out ( took me about 10 mins to do this part)
remove the nuts from one side and take the bolts out
jack that side up with a decent jack and big block of wood just enough to slide the new blocks in insert the bolts and do the other side exactly the same
keep and eye on the steel clutch and brake lines u may need to help them bend the right way
make sure the fuel return and filler are still in the right spot and not to short but they should b ok
also might need to remove bottom radiator shroud
once everything is sitting down square tighten everything up tensions very on bolt size and grades mine mine were 12 or 14 mm 8.8 so they were tensioned to 70FtLb
take it for a good drive make sure there is no noises everything works
retension the bolts make sure you do this because they will settle in and loosen up
now pull out your center console and remove one seat so u can just fold the carpet back around the shifters and trim the floor out untill u can comfortably get 4L
now bang your interior back together and enjoy your extra lift
good luck with it mate i hope this was a help any questions just ask me
thanks big pig this was just the walkthro i was after . looking at doing it this weekend .alright if i pm u if i have any issues ?
you may be able to trim the back of your low range selector slot with a recipro saw with the seat etc still in. you are just extending the slot by 20mm or so so just take the rubber boot off and cut and fold down. Easy.
Also, for Big Pig too, check the flexi joint at the steering box end of your steering column! this will need to be loosened and slipped down the shaft about 10mm to straighten out the rubber linkage again. If you dont do this then it will be in a constant state of stretch and will perish. ;) have a look.
Pretty easy job though mate.
Good luck.
Just a thought with the low range gear, can you just pop the lever off the spline shaft and adjust it suit lift?
Also grab some old thin conveyor belt to re-fill engine gaps.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2013/02/61.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2013/02/62.jpg
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories
I have seen guys try and Bend it with mixed results.
Cutting a slot in the floor is simple and works well. I had to also slot the back of the boot to allow for it to make some room for the stick. Not that big a deal though
Is it ever worth doing 1 inch???
Just asking so dont hurt me!!!
Yea I get you can bend them, I might try adjust mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I did.. and was enough for me. I'm now at a happy 3 inches.... In lift...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Hmmm so I wont have penis envy!!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodyaussie
pmsl................:clapping:
Anyway, yep easy as. A couple of points to watch for, as mentioned remove all rubber between chassis and body..
Secondly, and the biggest... Watch the brake lines from cab to chassis... They are a coil, but still can kink...
Also if you have rear stabilizer release you will need to remove the front bracket securing it to your chassis, to allow it to move up, its a solid cable so don't bother trying to bend it or move it...
You will also need to do longer brake lines from body to axles and also your rear brake bias will need an adapter plate now your getting that high, otherwise you will have no rear brakes..
Stock bolts are a M10 fine thread, 100mm long.
I went m12 fine thread, 120 long for my 1" lift, so you'll need 140mm long
Make sure you get zinc coated bolts..
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
i have just done my 2" body lift with no issues what so ever other then one bolt on the drivers side footwell keeps stripping the thread when i try tighten it up to the recommended 70ftlbs . all the other bolts tightened up just fine apart from this one . getting another bolt in the morning and shall see if this one works better . any ideas why it might be doing this ?
Where did you get the kit from? Please ensure you are using high tensile 8.8 bolts..
got the kit from a 4X4 shop , yes they are all 8.8 high tensile bolts . have solved the issue now just added another washer to spread the load over the original bushes