Castor correction; Offset Bearings

Had the old trol given its first wheel alignment since I've had it. the mechanic gave me the readout sheet and pointed out the castor angles. He reckoned that the Nissan, being a Japanese vehicle, had the incorrect castor for Australian roads. He suggested, strongly, I should have offset bearings fitted to the left hand swivel. He reckoned that the outer edge of the left and inner edge of the right tyres would scrub out. is this a fact, luxury or what?

Hmmmmm.... Has your wheel aligner checked out the condition of your current swivel hub bearings? & do they need replacing? or is he simply look for more adjustment???

If caster is the only issue here it can be corrected through the radius arm bushes at a far lower cost then the adjustable swivel hub bearing kit & far less labour intensive to fit as well, the camber however cannot be corrected this way & I think would better explain the issues your wheel aligner has described, this will require the bearing kits to be fitted to gain some control over this aria of adjustment.

The question in my mind is & although I do agree with your wheel aligners comments to some degree, are the tyres scrubbing that bad &/or the Rig handling so poorly it requires such an expensive modification be made? Or can it just be minimized through some caster correction bushes & a tweaked up tow adjustment? We are talking a 4x4 here with very tall sidewalls as apposed to a car for example which tend to make 4x4's a lot more forgiving.

The fact your in getting a wheel alignment tends to suggest your having some sort of issue whether it be tyres or handling & your wheel aligner is advising correctly on one & probable the best method in how to be able to get more adjustment into your front end but it is an expensive mod none the less.

Yeah, the wheel alignment was needed after a few fun days driving and the fact that I lightly kissed a tree stump with the aluminium bullbar, just enough to shake the headlight alignment loose and put the wheel alignment out a smidgen. Before that, I had no problems. But also I've not done a lot of Kilometres either, so long term wear hasn't shown up yet.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

Yeah, the wheel alignment was needed after a few fun days driving and the fact that I lightly kissed a tree stump with the aluminium bullbar, just enough to shake the headlight alignment loose and put the wheel alignment out a smidgen. Before that, I had no problems.

---

That must have been some hit mate..... Are you sure you didn't bend anything in the process? its not real easy to knock a Patrols wheel alignment out that much without bending something....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by patch697

That must have been some hit mate..... Are you sure you didn't bend anything in the process? its not real easy to knock a Patrols wheel alignment out that much without bending something....

---

Musta taken a leaf from Taslucas' book he alli bars and trees also get on well ;-)


Tap, Tap.......Who's there?

When I mean a fun days driving, I mean pine tree roots across ripper sand tracks, and the fact that seat belts were needed to keep our heads from denting the ceiling...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by growlers71gq

Musta taken a leaf from Taslucas' book he alli bars and trees also get on well ;-)


Tap, Tap.......Who's there?

---

Does he really try to get along so well with he's country's trees??? Or???...... was it just simply a genuine slip up in a fearful attempt to escape from KRISTOFFA????

We don't all react as well under pressure as you Growlers.....hahahahahahah

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

When I mean a fun days driving, I mean pine tree roots across ripper sand tracks, and the fact that seat belts were needed to keep our heads from denting the ceiling...

---

So you went out & had a BIG day by the sounds....... Well with heavy duty fun can also come a heavy duty cost & as you've come back with with some issues my best advice is to get your Rig checked right out & make 99.9% sure you didn't bend anything & possibly compromised the safety or integrity of your Rig in any way before I'd be spending any money what so ever on a front end alignment.

Remember Dude, safety first!!! both yours & everyone else.

I couldn't see any marks or damage underneath the trol after the fun was had. It was only a little bit toey on the road, just enough for me to notice. The mech had a good squizz as well so I'm guessing the flex in the chassis was tested. XD It did show me that some serious mods are due, to make the trol a bit more bushworthy, but that's all in the future. Cheers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

I couldn't see any marks or damage underneath the trol after the fun was had. It was only a little bit toey on the road, just enough for me to notice. The mech had a good squizz as well so I'm guessing the flex in the chassis was tested. XD It did show me that some serious mods are due, to make the trol a bit more bushworthy, but that's all in the future. Cheers.

---

Good to hear mate, nothing wrong with going out & having a blast & by the sounds of things you've got your head screwed on the right way when it comes to keeping you & your Rig safe.

Keep us posted on whats needed to get your front end sorted as it can provide good information for others who wind up in a similar situation as yourself & if you have anymore questions or advice ask away as we're all here to help.

Best of luck.

G'day mate, i think you might be a little off track. I think your mechanic was talking about Camber Correction and not Caster Correction.

Caster correction is the tilt angle of your diff and is set using bushes in the front of your radius arms. anything less than a 2 inch lift and No caster correction should be needed.

The description that you gave and explanation from your Mechanic is describing Camber correction and can be needed because those Japs dont account for the camber on our roads. This IS neally the Biggest issue faced by Nissan owners. The Bloody Death Wobbles.

He is talking about installing a King Pin offset bearing race on the left side. I did this 4 years ago to my GUIV and reckon it is THE BEST mod i have done to the car! Well that and Drop Boxes. A decent Dyno Tune would come in a very close second though.

Check out this link for all the info you need on this great Modification. A couple of Hundred bucks will see it fitted and consider putting in a new axle seal while your there.

Safetsteer.com.au

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Safe-T-Steer

SafeTSteer is part of the Big Wheels Truck Alignment group. The aim of the business is to provide professional and engineered solutions to the road transport industry for wheel alignment deficiencies at a cost effective price. In today's world vehicles require more exacting steering geometry in order to alleviate early wear and reduce running costs.

We have found that many vehicles are basically set up incorrectly for our Australian road conditions.
The high road crown used extensively in Australia placed a camber bias into steering geometry that created a ‘pull left’ effect that wore tyres and aided little in the way of driver comfort through constant steering correction and added to fatigue.

With this in mind and through alignment services provided by the Big Wheels workshops, the Company identified a need for exact steering geometry specifications. Over time solutions to satisfy the need were developed by way of innovative engineering, the conduct of extensive Research and Development and the commencement of production and marketing. Now providing the solutions for competent suspension shops to correct these issues.

The courage to undertake such an onerous path may well daunt some but unrestrained by industry convention the Company commenced the long and arduous task of making something completely new from an original concept to recognised world leaders.

The company began developing a series of innovative parts, a range of machinery and equipment that allowed adjustment and correction to steering geometry allowing the vehicle to drive in a straight line. In tandem with the manufacture of these parts a laser based measuring system was developed to accurately measure the castor, camber, toe and thrust measurements of heavy vehicles. By adding the Company’s relevant sized and correctly adjusted part, or by correction means the vehicle is able to literally drive straight and the remaining tyre life is often doubled.

A portable cordless vehicle laser measuring system marketed as the Quad 4 - Laser Four Wheel Aligner was also developed allowing the accurate measurement of steering geometry on small trucks, commercial and 4WD vehicles and passenger cars.

By association with national and international industry bodies the patented parts and equipment developed by the Company found ready and sizeable markets within professional alignment workshops throughout the country and internationally to America, Africa and the Pacific.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by patch697

Does he really try to get along so well with he's country's trees??? Or???...... was it just simply a genuine slip up in a fearful attempt to escape from KRISTOFFA????

We don't all react as well under pressure as you Growlers.....hahahahahahah

---

Where do I start? Fearful of Winnie????? Geez!
I was actually patrol racing with tasfox (and filming.... And perhaps holding a refreshment.....and going slightly quick........lol)

I smashed the buggery outta my alloy bar and it didn't effect my camber that I can tell. Not saying mudnuts isn't.

I thought the camber of the road was what the mechanic should of said, not the castor??? I've never heard of changing castor of the vehicle to help the camber of the road??


Ps: I'd eat Chris for breakfast the honey loving pooh!!!!
Dems fightn wordz

Tap, crackle, pop

I've probably got the word wrong: another senior moment. I might drive the vehicle for a while and see what develops. That might let me save up to have the work done. I'm glad I haven't experienced the death wobbles in a big vehicle. Experienced them on a race track at about 90 kph during a test run on, setting up the steering geometry on my third racing mower. Had the toe in completely wrong.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

I've probably got the word wrong: another senior moment. I might drive the vehicle for a while and see what develops. That might let me save up to have the work done. I'm glad I haven't experienced the death wobbles in a big vehicle. Experienced them on a race track at about 90 kph during a test run on, setting up the steering geometry on my third racing mower. Had the toe in completely wrong.

---

Its all good mate, we got what you were saying. Did I read "Race Mowers"???..... You are a thrill seeker.... 90kms on a ride on.... insane..................lol

As I said before, keep us posted on what develops Its good info for others to benefit from.

Yep, and 90ks was a slow test run. I haven't raced mowers for a few years now, but it was fun. The second and third machines I built, had a CB 400 motor, electrics modified to pull serious revs. Never got it beyond 4th gear, and it had 5th and 6th. If your looking for a bit of hair raising fun, give it a go.

"That must have been some hit mate..... Are you sure you didn't bend anything in the process? its not real easy to knock a Patrols wheel alignment out that much without bending something.... "

I agree, the alignment is hard to move - But - balance is easy, esp. if you have bigger tyres. If you are going to use them like that often, then you will scuff the tyres quicker than wear them out. I suggest a balance after "fun" and rotate them when you do oil changes to slow the effects of any allignment issues

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Les Penrose

"That must have been some hit mate..... Are you sure you didn't bend anything in the process? its not real easy to knock a Patrols wheel alignment out that much without bending something.... "

I agree, the alignment is hard to move - But - balance is easy, esp. if you have bigger tyres. If you are going to use them like that often, then you will scuff the tyres quicker than wear them out. I suggest a balance after "fun" and rotate them when you do oil changes to slow the effects of any allignment issues

---

Thanks, but there's definitely no damage underneath, the aluminum bar only sits up about 8mm higher on one side. That's the beauty of having a soft bull bar. I'd hate to think what would have happened if the stump met solid steel. The trol seems to be sitting on the road quite well after the alignment, so I'll just keep an eye on the tread wear.

Gidday, again. It has been a bit of time since the wheel alignment, and the trol is still wandering on the road a smidgen, above 80 to 90 ks. So I'm guessing I'll have to put it up on a hoist and have another look at the steering geometry. Could anyone, please give me advice on where to measure the chassis from, just to make sure I haven't twisted it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

Gidday, again. It has been a bit of time since the wheel alignment, and the trol is still wandering on the road a smidgen, above 80 to 90 ks. So I'm guessing I'll have to put it up on a hoist and have another look at the steering geometry. Could anyone, please give me advice on where to measure the chassis from, just to make sure I haven't twisted it?

---

If you download the manual from the site I think you will find the measurements and measure points to check everything in there mate. Sorry on my iPhone now so can't do the search.

This forum is magic ! I've downloaded the manual and have found the page with the dimensions. Will check the trol first chance I get.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

This forum is magic ! I've downloaded the manual and have found the page with the dimensions. Will check the trol first chance I get.

---

Cheers mate! Yeah we like it too ;)