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I have an 02 TD4.2T which overheats badly when towing caravan. I have had the radiator rodded and checked the thermostat - all OK. Replaced the oil in the thermo hub today. Used 2 18mL tubes of silicon oil (Toyota). The hub does not feel any different now than when it had minimal oil in it. Still wont kick in as temp rises.
Any thoughts? Any info greatly appreciated.
Spoons
Hi Spoons, don't forget to introduce yourself too when you get a chance in the intros section.
Does it overheat just crusing on the flats or is it just under pressure when powering up hills, etc?
Badly do you mean almost boiling right at the top or just 3/4?
Also, manual or auto?
Rodding the radiator is almost a sure way to stop this and you have obviously done it.
What about the correct ratios of coolant? Any chance you may have put too much coolant in last time?
Sometimes people can put way too much coolant in which actually blocks the tubes and makes it worse....Just throwing some ideas around.
If the fan still won't kick in after re-oiling the hub, replace it. While you're in the area check the fan for cracking around the centre.
Thermostats are only about $30 or $40 dollars so replace it if you're still having issues.
Next thing I would do is replace the water pump.
As AB suggested, make sure you use the correct coolant concentration and never mix different types of coolant.
It's a process of elimination.
Tony
Thanks for the help everyone. Much appreciated. Manual gearbox, temp goes to first mark reasonably quickly on level road. Turning the A/C off reduces temp slightly (maybe not such a good option for summer in North Queensland). Reducing speed also does the same (I usually try to maintain 90 kmh for a few reasons). Towing a 19' van.
Fan is cracked and will be replaced this week depending on the mail. Going to remove the water pump this morning and have a look at its condition. If it even looks remotely dodgy it will be going too (checked this morning, looks brand new). Assured by Natrad guy that thermostat is OK but might replace it as well.
Just flushed oil side of motor with CEM oil flush (got about 11 1/2 L out), also using CEM Decarboniser and Clean fuel (very impressed with results so far). Just replace gearbox, transfer case and rear diff oil's with Bimrose products (ran out of diff oil for the front, it will get done soon). Again, impressed with the improvement to performance.
Any ideas on where to purchase new hub? Local Nissan dealer wanted $500 which I thought was a little excessive.
Thanks
Spoons
Try Repco or Ebay for fan hubs and water pumps.
Tony
id suspect the water pimp i replace mine every year
Tried that today. Inside it looks brand new. No pitting, eveything nice and shiny so I can scratch it off the list. Starting to run out of suspects.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adlarplant
Spoons
Replaced the fan hub yesterday. I've gotta say the new one didnt feel any different to the old one. $175.00 from local Autopro (Dayco brand).
We are going to Brisbane tomorrow (getting some work done to the motor) and eventually to Sydney (visit Mums) and will be towing the van. That should give some indication if any or all of the problem has been fixed. Heres hoping.
I was talking a member of our club at Wednesday night's meeting and he was having the same issue, checked everything and all was good.
Someone told him to put a 5mm spacer on the hinges of his bonnet where it bolts onto the bonnet, this raises the rear of the bonnet so there is an air flow continuously going through the engine compartment.
His problem was solved.
hi spoons had this problem also went the long root as you have was told thermostat was ok
got frustrated and replaced it after another 3 months of frustration and low and behold problem sorted
spent lots of money doing the other investigationsand work
i replaced thermo myself and if i had not lissened to the chap who said it was ok could have saved a lot of money
stephen
This could be a dangerous idea as in a frontal crash the bonnet can come through the window like a guillotine. Could be an old wives tale but I wouldnt take a chance. :icon_bonk:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dogman
Have had my TD42T since new (1999) and this has occasionally been a problem.
Unless the needle is going past the last mark on the guage its only running hot, not overheating.
Generally its a sign of high EGT so try dropping back a gear and have it revving harder (sounds bizarre but true).
I wouldnt worry about mine if it didnt cut the bloody aircon off and make the wife and kids start whinging. :mad:
Towing the van from home to Brisbane the temo gauge was going to the first mark fairly quickly. Got a brainwave and decided to remove the spotties (240 Blitz's) just to see what happened. Fixed!!!!! Temp srays on "normal" until pulling up big hills then jumps up. Down the other side of the hill it drops back to normal.
We had the pump tweaked, a boost controller (12PSI) and dynoed and it has made a huge difference. Without the van it is very driveable. Nice smooth power. If you give it a bootful it leaps ahead. With the van it will pull up a reasonable hill in fourth. Temp gauge rarely moves. EGT goes up and down according to throttle position and load. Boost usually up around 8 - 10. All in all a great modification.
Just had the viscous hub die on mine so as an experiment i drove it home from Blackwater back to home with an eye on the temp gauge at a constant 100 kms it stayed at 105c only rising to 110c when climbing isla gorge this is with 3 lf240 lights on the front. Ive had the theory for a while now that the fan could be blocking airflow at speed for a while now as ive only experienced overheating at high speeds im going to fit twin thermos off an au falcon over the next couple of days to see if these make any difference
I have adapted to the big car radiator fan and the large own production, which triggers itself from the enclosure and monitor the temperature of the water and the engine block. Well resolved. recommend
We have the 4.2 TD engine and it was prone to getting hot. I tried the 5mm spacer and found that unless you really looked you can't see any difference to the Bonnet. With the engine running the amount of hot air passing through the gap is amazing. This helped to keep the engine cooler. I then brought some Redline Water Wetter. This product is imported from the USA and used in drag cars. Not cheap, $32 from Bursons, but it did the trick. We tow a 22' caravan and no matter the outside temperature the gauge never goes above half now.