Front brake line leak....hmmm help

Hey guys, I have just been for a short trip to the beach with a little bit of hill driving,
Noticed the same noise when my clutch booster went and thought that it had gone again. I also noticed that the brakes pulled to the right pretty hard out. Looked underneath and saw there was fluid on the inside of the tyres and fluid leaking from where the brake lines join brake assembly, see photo,
I still have brakes at this moment and am wondering if I need to bleed the system (as i dont know when the last one was, had the car only 3 months) and replace brake components as there is a light squeak also when I brake...Im new to the mechanics game but really want to learn as much as possible as I plan to do quite a bit of touring in the old girl.
Cheers guys

Its hard to see exactly where the leaks coming from but either way it looks like ya need to replace the hose and yes it will need bleeding. Let me know how ya go im having a pr1k of a time getting all the air outa mine ;-)

The leak is coming from the bolt that fits onto the end of the brake line, I followed the lines back to the booster and there was no other leaking. I got my wife to sit in the truck and pump the lines while it was running and there was a slow leak coming from the end of that bolt on both sides.....any idea what you would call that, cause that.

Is it alot harder than the clutch to bleed? Do you have to do one line at a time? If not, have you tried getting 6 mates around and doing it i one go. One to fill the master, one to pump the brake and the other four on each wheel on the bleeders...sounds like the start to a good joke.

clean it up and find exactly where the leak is could just be a leaky washer or someone hasn't put one back in at some stage.
well that was a bit slow you posted twice whilst i was typing away lol
Their should be a washer either side of the line where the bolt goes through usually .

In the past ive found brakes easy to bleed, the clutch was an absolute effer to do. The troll is testing my patience thatrs for sure. When you bleed start at the nipple furthest from the master cylinder ie left rear, then right rear, then left front, then right front, sounds easy ay ;-)

Ok cheers, also if i notice a drop in oil pressure can that relate to the booster being buggered at all? I have noticed that it has had a lot more movement in it that when I first purchased it and wondering if that is a possibility. It has been ranging from about 1-4, I think thats normal but it used to sit around 3 on idle and go just past 4 on acceleration...another issue maybe?? haha

I would think thats engine oil pressure, which wouldnt effect the brakes operation. If its a brake boost gauge then yeah there could be an issue. Ive got a pov pack with the bare minimum of gauges

Just had a think about the events before hand and had a go at driving up a sand drift with one wheel up, it has a two inch lift and just wondering if the previous guy didnt get brake extensions as they look a bit stock, not that I would know,

Nah mate brake extensions are the single line in the middle of the diff.
One thing it could be though is the bolt copped a beating and bent they do have a hollow center.

I have always been a firm believer in anything with brakes, replace it, I would tighten the nuts up then clean it up 100%, have someone pump the brakes a few times with the engine running to get the boast & check the leak, this will tell you where the leak is, if it is in the brake line replace both front lines, keep the good one as an emergency spare, just some thought, when undoing breaklines jamb a golf TEE in the hole, you may need to whittle it to a tapered point, the wood will squash a little to hold out the air long enough for you to change the line, this stops lots of air in the line & much much easier to bleed the small pocket of air out off the brakes afterwards, often good enough to bleed that line only & get away with it, done it many many times.

The reason I do both sides is I believe if one side has failed the other could fail, do both sides & keep the good spare, you have double peace of mind, one it is all done nicely & second you have something that will get you home in an imergency, always keep a golf tee in your kit, takes no room

Cheers Morton, sound advice bro, so the tee goes in the flexible brake line or the metal line? I just found this quote on-line and it describes what was happening to me.

"one of the reasons for replacing brake lines on your vehicle is due to collapse. Brake lines collapse for several reasons. Typically, metal lines collapse from impact and rubber lines collapse due to age. When a line collapses, it can cause several symptoms. The most common symptom is a pulling condition upon braking. It is relatively difficult to diagnose a collapsed rubber line because you cannot physically see the inside of the line. The rule of thumb is usually if the vehicle pulls to one side while braking and the caliper shows no damage, then replacement of the brake hose is required"

Thats exactly what the Q was doing, pulling to the right

For the small cost of brake lines and fluid just replace them all. Peace of mind for safety of yourself, passengers and other road users :)

Brought today and on the way, safe as

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eliurquhart

Cheers Morton, sound advice bro, so the tee goes in the flexible brake line or the metal line?

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into the metal line off the chassis to stop the fluid leaking out, when it goes back together the only air you should have is in the flexi-line & calliper, quick bleed & the small amount of air is out, on the road again, you wont even finish a beer in the time it takes

See if you can tighten the bolt at all, it may have had a knock and be a bit loose.
But It would be a good idea to replace the hose and the two copper washers.
If you cant get the washers, just heat them till red and let them cool, they will then be soft again and can be re-used.
Cheers, the ferret.

Nice work, will let you know how it goes, Cheers Morton thats what I thought seemed sensible

Well lines arrived today, $65 for the two not sure if that exy or not. Everything works well again, just need to service the piston but wasnt sure how to get it out, anyone help me on that one??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eliurquhart

Well lines arrived today, $65 for the two not sure if that exy or not. Everything works well again, just need to service the piston but wasnt sure how to get it out, anyone help me on that one??

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If the piston is not leaking, leave it alone, the price of the hoses is fine, you depend on them to keep you and your family alive, cheap as.
Just make sure everything is spotless and fit the washers and the tube bolts with care.
One washer each side of the hose fitting.
You will need to spend some time bleeding the system too, if in doubt, ask here on the forum.
Best of luck..
Cheers, the ferret.

To remove a piston i just put compressed air into where the brake line goes and push it out be careful if you do this as it can come out quick.

If your having trouble bleeding them just open the nipple and leave it for a few hours, gravity bleeding is normaly pretty good.

Hey all, brakes lines on no worries, bleed them as usual was easy as due to Mortons sweet golf tee trick. I was wanting to service the piston as there was a hole in the boot seal and the brakes are a bit slow, even before I put the new lines on, I cleaned the two sliders and re-greased them and the boots were all good, a lot more movement in that. I think that the reason that they are slow/spongy is there is probably a build up of crud in the bore as when I bleed the lines there was a HUGE amount of black waste in there that I cleaned all the way through. nice and clean now. Is it ok to attempt to clean the piston if I never had before, its pretty simple I reckon, I ride DH bikes and its got to be the same process, just got to put the bore back in straight and slowly.

Yep, just use a scotch scourer, don't use emery or steel wool. If the piston is to be taken out, you should do the seals as well, that way you would also clean out the seal grooves.
Cheers, the ferret.

you can pull them apart, remove the seals & spray the entire unit in non-coustic oven cleaner & leave for a few hrs or overnight, using a scotchbrite scourer (usually a white scourer) & a toothbrush for the tight areas etc scrub it thoroughly & rinse in clean water, I sound like my wife lol

It is also a very good way to clean heavy brake dust build-up on alloys rims, works a treat