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Hi guys,
I'm going to put a second battery in my car, I am not sure what sort of battery I will need, I'm pretty sure I don't need one with good cold cranks, so what would a good size/type of battery that will get me good time out of using say a fridge an a few other things? Thanks in advance for the advice.
Cheers
Nic
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Tappin
check out all purpose batteries ive used them 4 times and they have great service and competitive prices .
i would be looking for a deep cycle batt or a marine batt incase you do need to crank her over in an emergency, something along these lines would be suitable.http://www.allpurposebatteries.com.a...roducts_id=215
Thanks for the heads up pal. I'll definitely ale a look at them. I really do want a battery with better amp hours tho. I have a brand new starter batt and will be using an isolator on the second battery. it will simply be for powering devices. I have one of those jump starter packs for emergencies. From what I understand batteries that have high CCA'S don't necessarily have good power provisions to last and power devices for any given periods of time?
Tappin
Maybe something like a yellow top optima? Has anyone used these? Do I need a deep cycle battery?
Tappin
Have yellow tops myself, one for a starter and the other for the accessories..well, when I get her on the road. Thing is the them that they have a lot of reserve capacity, and as they're non-flooded you can lie them down and not worry about acid spill (that and the side terminals come in handy). Don't go for the red top optimas though, they're only for starting and hate cyclingQuote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
100ah is the general size most people use, sealed is less messy, I use a Trojan 110ah with a wet kit awesome battery but a bit messy. My battery suppler would not supply a sealed battery to me for under bonnet use incase it exploded, which does happen but not often. Think he was just covering his butt or head office told him. I have no probs putting any kind of battery under the bonnet. Marine style batteries are more suited to off road use with their rugged construction, and as mentioned Optima can be mounted in any position they can even be posted. you can also connect a solar panel to help with extended stays, Deep cycle if not winching.
Just trying to find out if a calcium-calcium battery (as linked by megatexture) can / should be charged with a CTEK D250S Dual. All purpose batteries doesn't mention the optimum amperage they should be charged with and CTEK says the D250s is "suitable for all types of lead acid batteries (Wet, MF, Gel, AGM)".
Flo-w, batteries now are a bit complicated, Cal batts need high amps otherwise they'll gas, and in the MF range, that's a bit of a bummer as you can't top them up, they also DON'T like to be cycled (read..don't cycle them as you'll stuff them in no time). Antomonial (can't remember how to spell it) prefer low amps otherwise they gas so don't hook them up to a high amp alternator (more suited for occasional use such as tractors and vehicles with regulators), they don't mind being cycled however due to the high initial amps used to charge them, they'll gas but as they're open tops you are able to maintain them. In a dual set up, you shouldn't mix different types if it's a 24v system. In a 12v system, you can mix and match but need to have separate charging systems in place. My yellowtop Optima's are the exception, they can be starters/cycling and don't mind high/low amps.
GEL sealed batteries should only have low amps going into it for the simple fact that they have NO VENT. Otherwords, if the battery is flat and your alternator charges it, it will pump high amps into it and as there's no vent, will bulge, dunno about explodiing unless something is drawing more than that alternator can replace that causes it to continually pump in high amps.
Most "exploding" batteries I've encountered have had either a factory fault (terminal not correctly sealed), issue with charging system not dropping the amps when charged or "operator incompetence". The latter is when charging takes place, hydrogen gas is emitted and if a spark/flame/ciggie is near it is best to not be the one causing it
So if i were just to hook a second battery up in parallel with a switch between the 2 so I could turn cranking battery off when at camp. Then when I start. Turn switch back to charge aux battery what would be the best. Optima yellow top? My setup would be. Main battery connects in parallel to aux with a switch between the two. Then power from aux to rear for accessories
I have had a few types of battery combos. I have found that the Agm, at least the cheaper ones are not suited to under bonnent installation they fail far to quickly at least with the heat from a td42. The all purpose types seem to hold up longer even though you can't discharge as far. Personally I would go with two all purpose or marine style batteries.
Oh, just be aware there is not much difference between the marine and starter batteries bar slightly thicker plates. Thicker plates decrease the CCA but increase the reserve capacity and vice versa. For e.g. in NZ THE Century Yuasa M57MF (530CCA) marine battery is exactly the same batter as what goes in a EB falcon (only the top label changes and oh, at least $50 more).
I got a reply from Ctek: D250S charger is suitable for "All types of 12V lead-acid batteries (WET, MF, Ca/Ca, AGM and GEL)". It actually says so in the manual but only on the technical details page and not on the cover or on their web page.
Thanks aussiemale for your post. I'm confused. The linked battery (http://www.allpurposebatteries.com.a...roducts_id=215) is a Ca/Ca and advertised as a Deep Cycle battery (110ah, 670cca). This seems to contradict with what you said.
I also just gave them a call and they say that 20A is no issue for charging (all good as long as it's not more than 30% of the capacity (33A in this case)). They recommend it for under bonnet as it's "heat resistant".
Any thoughts?
Flo-w, you've got me confused now, checked that link and that battery is a is definitely a starter battery (over here it's either classed as a N70ZZMF or N70ZMF). Would be alright for a DC if the draw was low that it's minimal and/or the draw was less than what the alternator output is putting out under load. 20A is no issue for it because cal batteries like high amps (up to and surpassing 70amp). Heat resistant is a bit like the term water resistant that you have on watches, big difference between water resistant and waterproof.
However, go that way give the person you're buying the battery the full details of what the use will be. Have a prepared letter stating that and get them to sign it that it won't void the warranty. I personally refused to sell a customer a battery (yes, that was one of my old jobs...needed the optimas at staff rate LOL) if I knew it was going to be abused and they were just going for a cheap option. Sure I'd miss out a sale but then I'd not be the one having to put up with upset customers who's batteries died miles from anywhere.
thanks for all the feedback guys! really helpful.