Yep, Another Rear Drawr Build

Hi Guys,

Been a while since I make these, but have always mean to put up a few photos. Haven't got any photos of the build, but Kallens build thread was very useful and also checked out the Full Boar Fouby Drawers for a bit of inspiration. Made it all out of 12mm marine ply (3 sheets) painted it matt black and covered it with Bunnings auto carpet.

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Used the UES Slides with one lockout and one without per side. Found these to work really well and are easy to install. To mount them you need to pull them apart by pressing in the lockout tab and pulling them out then you can get to all the screw holes.

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Make a couple of little hidey holes on each side. You can still get to the jack easily enough, I also mounted the jack handle and wheel brace so it's all together.

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Also patched up the old seat belt holes and recovered the side panels with the same carpet.

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I finished the drawers at the top of the bit which drops down (the old footwell for the dickie seats), and put a cover over it, so there is a fair bit of room for stuff you don't need to access often. I also went a full length cargo barrier so you can stuff things in here also without too many dramas.

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Made a table out of the leftovers, which is bloody handy. Covered the speaker holes and carpeted the doors. i mounted some 6" speakers in the rear doors with 20mm spacers, which is heaps better seeing as when the rear is loaded up with gear the speakers in the barn doors are pretty much useless anyway.

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Put in some LED strip lights on both doors which is bloody handy too.

All up drawers probably cost about $500.00 and have been good so far, very happy with them and should have done it long ago!!

Good job as usual rossco :)

Looks good man, nice and neat.

Sent from me using Forum Runner

Looks great looking to build some myself

Looks very well made, very tidy!
Looking forward to making a set for my GQ next month!

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Used the UES Slides with one lockout and one without per side. Found these to work really well and are easy to install. To mount them you need to pull them apart by pressing in the lockout tab and pulling them out then you can get to all the screw holes
All up drawers probably cost about $500.00 and have been good so far, very happy with them and should have done it long ago!!

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Great set up Rossco, the side panels and rear bench came up grouse,I bought the UES slides but didnt get a pair that lock because i havent been able to work out how to mount them without having the locking lever esposed on the drawer face to unlock them, i cant see yours, any advice on how you did it by chance, they did say i can take a pair back for changeover so if you can help id appreciate it, im starting mine today so im pretty pumped, i decided to try building a top slide and self locking will help ensure it wont open on the rough stuff.

Cheers
Dave

I put the locking ones on the outside so you can get to them when both drawers are open. The one on the right is a little tight to get into (between the door and drawer) but that is mainly because I have a 35" spare, but it's not to bad really.

Good luck with yours, im sure they'll come up pretty sweet. :)

Im lost mate sorry, but if you put them on the outside, which i can only read as being 1 on far left and 1 on far right, and if they are locking slides would they not be exposed so u can push lever to open them, how can you open the draws to get to them if theyre locked on the inside, im either a total dumbar÷€ and have spent more than 40 hrs on several forums,websites to come up with my design and not once has there been any mention of using locking slides with a hidden locking mechanism, ORS even sell theirs with the levers showing out the front on fridge slides. Also full boar.

Im not questioning your ability and please dont take this with any offence, im truly interested and am frustrated in myself for not being able to picture how youve done it, if you wanna pm me please feel free or if you or anyone for that matter can put up a pic of how its done id be very gratefull

Rossco's are like mine. There is a little tab on the slider that is spring loaded and it flicks out when fully extended so you can't push the drawer shit without pressing the tab in first.
I don't have my car at the moment but can take a photo on the weekend.

I know where you are coming from Smoothrun, the only thing I can think of is that Rossco and Winnie have set up their slides so that the drawer closes before the locking slide locks? Otherwise they have no chance of accessing the lever and opening the drawer!


PS Or they are different to what we have and they only lock open not lock open and closed?

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Originally Posted by Crate

PS Or they are different to what we have and they only lock open not lock open and closed?

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Correct. Do not lock closed. There is no external lever.

Looks fantastic mate, certainly given me a few ideas for the upcoming build

Looks very neat - great job mate.

Looks awesome mate. Feel free to build me a set. I've been thinking I should build some but my woodworking skills are severely lacking

Thanks crate, my assumption also, unless they have designed a lever action which activates it on turning the T handle or made a slip type sleeve that is mounted to the draw sides and the actual slides themselves that allow the draws to slide forward enough to stick your hand in to unlock it.

Appreciated

Dave

Hi Dave,

Yeah, they are not true lock in as stated, but just sit in firmlyish and come out easily with a slight pull. I think they just sit in a little rubber notch at the end when pushed all the way in. I used the T handles with a little cleat made from ply to hold them in.

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Here's a pic of a lockout one. The little tab is spring loaded and just pops out. You just push it in to put the drawers back.

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You can see with this one where it sits against.

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Originally Posted by Winnie

Rossco's are like mine. There is a little tab on the slider that is spring loaded and it flicks out when fully extended so you can't push the drawer shit without pressing the tab in first.
I don't have my car at the moment but can take a photo on the weekend.

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Firstly appologies Winnie i missed your post offering your feedback and pics, but thanks anyway

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Hi Dave,

Yeah, they are not true lock in as stated, but just sit in firmlyish and come out easily with a slight pull. I think they just sit in a little rubber notch at the end when pushed all the way in. I used the T handles with a little cleat made from ply

Here's a pic of a lockout one. The little tab is spring loaded and just pops out.

You can see with this one where it sits against.

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Thanks for posting your pics Rossco, A good idea, whilst thinking about how you came up with this i had a couple of ideas i might try out if i have luck ill post them up for ya, its an easy concept to use but i need a little more time to masterming it.

Whilst im at it im going to purchase 5mm wide stainless bolts and locknuts for mounting mine. How did you guys mount the slides to the draws, self tappers chipboard screws which by your pics could be the case, im using 12mm for the draws and i dont see 10mm self tappers being good enough to hold 100kg, im thinking 5mm thick 30mm long bolts with nuts, but theyd be exposed inside the draw and carpet inside hiding the bolts, any thoughts anyone ?

Cheers

Dave

Yeah I just used 16mm self tappers and ground off the tips in the drawer. It does seem like screws are a bit under kill but thers enough holes to get quite a few in. Mine have copped a bit of abuse and still held together!! I think the full boar ones are mounted with screws also. Bolts would be good, just need to check the clearance they need to be pretty flat it all gets pretty thight.

Any screw will do really as long as it clears the runners.
But also a tip. For the top floor never screw and then carpet.
Carpet first and then screw them down. That way if you ever need to remove the draws you can find the screw again.
And once the screw are below the carpet level it fluffs up over them anyway

Why would you need to unscrew the top to remove them? Mine have turnbuckles on the back, and bolted in the front from the bottom underneath the drawer.
Pull draw out, unbolt, remove. Easy.

Thanks guys, im still thinking bolts but with a screw head which will ensure the slides guide past them, im going down in 20 mins to coventry fasteners and taking a slide with me, i have also made sure i can remove the entire box including draws after detatching the side wings, and from what ive designed i should be able to alse change draws over by just removing them after sliding forward, im still undecided what locks to use for my 2 drawers but need to before deciding on cleat spacing and type, as said earlier ive got a few days to decide to go self locking or non locking on the fridge slide and draw underneath, all my woods cut and im about to assemble thr rhs draw section, once ive done that ill post up a pic if your interested and show you how i intend to lock the lhs draw which sits below the fridge top slide.

Because the top fridge slide rolls the entire top panel (lhs) forward on the slide im thinking about a locking slide, mount it behind a false facia which you would have seen but exposing the locking lever, my objective is so not to expose the locking lever, then directly above the lever which is around 30mm from top drill a 5mm hole and simply use a pin and push it through the top panel which the fridge sits on and push down forcing the lever to unlock. If that makes sense good otherwise ill have to take pics and draw something up, as i said my objective is to have the entire front panel locking levers not exposed. If i can do it id prefer it otherwise im gunna have to use either a patio bolt type setup like the ORS ones or deadbolt them (unpreferred),

Cheers

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Winnie

Why would you need to unscrew the top to remove them? Mine have turnbuckles on the back, and bolted in the front from the bottom underneath the drawer.
Pull draw out, unbolt, remove. Easy.

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Yeah thats because yours are as wide as the wheel arches so you can just slide the whole thing out which works well. With mine and kallens the top goes right to the side panels so has to come off to get the drawers out. Not so siuted if you intend to take them out every so often but I dont think ill be taking mine out any time soon :)

Sounds good dave looking forward to seeing it, sounds interesting!! Kind of like outback drawers yeah?

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Yeah thats because yours are as wide as the wheel arches so you can just slide the whole thing out which works well. With mine and kallens the top goes right to the side panels so has to come off to get the drawers out. Not so siuted if you intend to take them out every so often but I dont think ill be taking mine out any time soon :)

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Me either but I suppose I will be thankful if I ever have to.

Mines been out twice already.
When I did the lining and will again when I out the tanks in..

These are the slides I have.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4WD-800mm...item19ce13f43f

I actually have a pair of those and also a pair of 700mm exactly the same. I have not used them because I ended up buying a set of drawers with the same runners in them.
I paid $200 delivered for the pair and I'd be happy to sell them for $100 if anybody was interested?

great thread guys. I'm in the process of designing drawers for the GU and this has answered a lot of questions for me!

These are the type I have and I assume smoothrun has also, larger latch and it locks in and out.

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Originally Posted by Crate

These are the type I have and I assume smoothrun has also, larger latch and it locks in and out.

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Hi crate they are exactly the same, although my 3 sets were purchased from UES, the part number at UES is the same as the IRS ones, also my 3 sets are non locking type ( just normal sliding)because i didnt want to expose the levers (personal choice) on the front panels as per Winnie and Rossco, Ive got 2 days to decide to swap one set over, only prob is i only need one side to lock and saying that my idea about hiding the lever would be more open to me, but 2 makes it more difficuilt, i asked if the locking mechs can be removed and the guy at UES said they cant. So i went unlocking type.

Personally i dont think he could be stuffed grabbin one from out the back to show me.

Maybe Winnie or Rossco may think different as they have played with theirs.

Cheers

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Sounds good dave looking forward to seeing it, sounds interesting!! Kind of like outback drawers yeah?

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Pretty much the same mate, i bought the bolts today and have mounted 2 slides,
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I also got some 3mm plate cut to glue to the upright before attatching the slides to add strength as 100kg hanging 40mm off the ply end seemed a no brainer, I also had 2 pcs bent for the fridge slide inner which the top panel sits on.Attachment 50930

Now that ive got the build with heaps of pics happening Im gunna start my own thread to show my progression to hopefully give others some ideas, and get feedback,

Otherwise ill end up smothering your build with pics like above

thanks for all your advice and pics based on my original thread questions, greatly appreciated and feel free to ask or question anything you see about my build, in fact thanks to everyone for their input.

Cheers Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crate

These are the type I have and I assume smoothrun has also, larger latch and it locks in and out.

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Cheers crate, havent seen these ones before. Apart from the yellow lever they look exactly the same as mine and winnies.

Nice build mate, looks great

wow Good job

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Originally Posted by kshaibani

wow Good job

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An introduction would be a nice and polite thing to do