Lifting the Jayco Swan

We got the camper about 10 years ago , and while it had served us well for gping to Fraser , straddie etc . I have always wanted to rebuild the chassis , lift it up and make it capable of more remote touring ,
Started by pulling the old torsion suspension out , after 20 + years it was knackered , then added 75 × 75mm 3mm wall box to the chassis to strengthen the chassis , then added 2000KG eye to eye springs , 6 stud hubs , and new axle , the draw bar was then modified at the tow point to both strengthen and lower the tow point (see photo ) and then lengths of 5mm × 50 mm flat spring steel has been welded on edge under the drawbar from the chassis to the tow point to further strengthen , the spare wheel has been moved to the front , there is two more water tanks going underneath , to give 3 x50lt tank's , the rear bar has not been done yet as in the future I want to be able to mount a folding trailer , for when I get a 3,5 m tinny to go on top of the camper .

As I had the steel and a mate to do the welding it has cost bugger all
Hubs and bearing $120
Springs , hangers , shackles $ 400
Considering you can pick these older on road campers up for around 2-5 grand it makes a cheap comfortable camper

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Originally Posted by gaddy

Considering you can pick these older on road campers up for around 2-5 grand it makes a cheap comfortable camper

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We saw a number of similar Jayco’s in remote areas. The advice often bandied around that buying a well used & modified model will get you something ’sorted’ & far better set up for that sort of travel than new ones applies particularly well to these Jaycos.

One question though: doing what you’ve done I’m sure you considered fitting shock absorbers & I wonder why the decision not to? I’m asking this as I have a future small off road trailer project in mind & am aware that ‘gurus’ like Collyn Rivers suggest that shocks, whether fitted with leaves or used with coil independent suspension is the single major factor in prevention of trailer suspension/chassis breakage when used extensively on corrugated outback roads.

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Originally Posted by gaddy

I have always wanted to rebuild the chassis , lift it up and make it capable of more remote touring

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Looks great, do you have an annexe for it? If you do, will it reach the ground?

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

We saw a number of similar Jayco’s in remote areas. The advice often bandied around that buying a well used & modified model will get you something ’sorted’ & far better set up for that sort of travel than new ones applies particularly well to these Jaycos.

One question though: doing what you’ve done I’m sure you considered fitting shock absorbers & I wonder why the decision not to? I’m asking this as I have a future small off road trailer project in mind & am aware that ‘gurus’ like Collyn Rivers suggest that shocks, whether fitted with leaves or used with coil independent suspension is the single major factor in prevention of trailer suspension/chassis breakage when used extensively on corrugated outback roads.

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Yes shocks are going in , just got to wait till the mrs gives me some more funds to spend !

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Originally Posted by briscott

Looks great, do you have an annexe for it? If you do, will it reach the ground?

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Yes and not a chance with the full annexe , but also have a new model jayco bag style one off a mates that I got before he sold his factory jayco offroad camper
But for beach camping I'll dig some holes for the wheels to drop into , the step is also pretty much usless as well lol

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Originally Posted by gaddy

Yes shocks are going in , just got to wait till the mrs gives me some more funds to spend !

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Just as you are looking forward to more funds, I’ll look forward to seeing pics of your shock mounting.

Off topic a bit, but......
The project I have in mind is for an off road ‘towable bedroom’, smaller than a teardrop (no kitchen, just the sleeping area), wheel track & wheel size the same as the Patrol, built as light as possible, probably using fibreglass sandwich panel glued together (no fasteners). Apart from the fact that there will be a steep learning curve involved in designing & constructing with this material, (see http://vlp.homestead.com/index.html ) the thing that I am struggling to get my head around is how to determine spring & shock rates. I know these are determined by the weight of the trailer, but what do you do when you don’t know what the trailer weight will be....... such conundrums do my head in!

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Just as you are looking forward to more funds, I’ll look forward to seeing pics of your shock mounting.

Off topic a bit, but......
The project I have in mind is for an off road ‘towable bedroom’, smaller than a teardrop (no kitchen, just the sleeping area), wheel track & wheel size the same as the Patrol, built as light as possible, probably using fibreglass sandwich panel glued together (no fasteners). Apart from the fact that there will be a steep learning curve involved in designing & constructing with this material, (see http://vlp.homestead.com/index.html ) the thing that I am struggling to get my head around is how to determine spring & shock rates. I know these are determined by the weight of the trailer, but what do you do when you don’t know what the trailer weight will be....... such conundrums do my head in!

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One of the reasons I went for the springs I did is if I found it to be to hard riding I can remove a leaf if needed , as for the shocks , they are only to prevent rebound , ie the trailer from bouncing not take load so to my way of thinking a set of front shocks of a small car should work , as long as they are of the correct length not to bottom out or over extend , I toyed with the idea of independent coils , but figured it a waste of money as single axle trailers , don't drop a wheel so to speak , the whole trailer rocks instead , the shock mounts will be off the fish plates at the bottom of the spring to the chassis

Gaddy good build. Looks like a nice upgrade. The only pic I can make is a rather plug one though.. (and it may just be picture angle)

The draw bar extension to me will not last. You should run the 100 x 100 atleast a few cross members past the front if the van..
As it sits I can see it tearing the back end of the shs out along the top due to the leverage weight...

Imo cut off the short bit and install a single peice.
If it is already right threw my apologies as the pic is difficult to tell..

The front tongue attachment is a bit agricultural but I think will be up to the job.

Apart from that small thing mate good job

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Originally Posted by biggqwesty

Gaddy good build. Looks like a nice upgrade. The only pic I can make is a rather plug one though.. (and it may just be picture angle)

The draw bar extension to me will not last. You should run the 100 x 100 atleast a few cross members past the front if the van..
As it sits I can see it tearing the back end of the shs out along the top due to the leverage weight...

Imo cut off the short bit and install a single peice.
If it is already right threw my apologies as the pic is difficult to tell..

The front tongue attachment is a bit agricultural but I think will be up to the job.

Apart from that small thing mate good job

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Thanks

Some more on the draw bar and tow point , it is agricultural but functional , its hard to photograph , some more photos of the rear of the extension , the extension is made long so as the big barn door can be opened , while hooked up ,
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Cuppa,
Lessons learned on this short trip. Agree, reverse commute never again with the crowds. small caravan but with a small cafeteria seating area and bunk, kitchen outdoors, offroad with a reasonable support tug. I'm thinking alot about an all ally chasis an ally honeycombed structure for strength and insulation. The internet service here is poor will write more l8r

Backyard trial run of the awning , had to make new poles , but happy as with the outcome
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Originally Posted by gaddy

Backyard trial run of the awning , had to make new poles , but happy as with the outcome <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48373"/>

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Looks high the awning.

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

We saw a number of similar Jayco’s in remote areas. The advice often bandied around that buying a well used & modified model will get you something ’sorted’ & far better set up for that sort of travel than new ones applies particularly well to these Jaycos.

One question though: doing what you’ve done I’m sure you considered fitting shock absorbers & I wonder why the decision not to? I’m asking this as I have a future small off road trailer project in mind & am aware that ‘gurus’ like Collyn Rivers suggest that shocks, whether fitted with leaves or used with coil independent suspension is the single major factor in prevention of trailer suspension/chassis breakage when used extensively on corrugated outback roads.

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yes cuppa you are 100 pecent correct adding shocks does all of the above just doing what shocks do dampening the shudder. i have a work mate with a golf bush challenger and he was told to fit shocks only for the remote stuff would keep him out of trouble.

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Just as you are looking forward to more funds, I’ll look forward to seeing pics of your shock mounting.

Off topic a bit, but......
The project I have in mind is for an off road ‘towable bedroom’, smaller than a teardrop (no kitchen, just the sleeping area), wheel track & wheel size the same as the Patrol, built as light as possible, probably using fibreglass sandwich panel glued together (no fasteners). Apart from the fact that there will be a steep learning curve involved in designing & constructing with this material, (see http://vlp.homestead.com/index.html ) the thing that I am struggling to get my head around is how to determine spring & shock rates. I know these are determined by the weight of the trailer, but what do you do when you don’t know what the trailer weight will be....... such conundrums do my head in!

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next show cuppa go and check out the small trailers that are there then start minusing what your not putting in

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Just as you are looking forward to more funds, I’ll look forward to seeing pics of your shock mounting.

Off topic a bit, but......
The project I have in mind is for an off road ‘towable bedroom’, smaller than a teardrop (no kitchen, just the sleeping area), wheel track & wheel size the same as the Patrol, built as light as possible, probably using fibreglass sandwich panel glued together (no fasteners). Apart from the fact that there will be a steep learning curve involved in designing & constructing with this material, (see http://vlp.homestead.com/index.html ) the thing that I am struggling to get my head around is how to determine spring & shock rates. I know these are determined by the weight of the trailer, but what do you do when you don’t know what the trailer weight will be....... such conundrums do my head in!

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Pick an axle set up that you think will exceed your build weight 40mm square is heaps ,
being small you may want to look at the independent style but no travel.
Ive used Orac greasable shackle full off road for my camper, just take some leaves out to suit.
avoid slipper spring set up, will not cope

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Originally Posted by gaddy

Backyard trial run of the awning , had to make new poles , but happy as with the outcome
Attachment 48373

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looking good a third wall will keep it weatherproof ,
we use an old shade sail as a wall, stops wind and rain getting through and cheap

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Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER

Looks high the awning.

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The whole thing is high now , the annexe walls are now 300mm to short , with 700mm of ground clearance it's way more capable than the car , even the water tanks don't hang below the chassis rails , and the diff pumpkin on the car will hit before the axle does ,

Really looking forward to towing it offroad , bring on Fraser in a few weeks :)

Before and after
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Well done mate. Looks a treat now

Set up on Fraser , new chassis and suspension worked a treat
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Love the concept.

Do not like the weld across the drawbar extension section. Advice from engineers was to avoid cross welds rather better to locate welds along the tube sections. This certainly was proven when building chisel plow and similar ag box section style units.

Kallen's point about extending the drawbar further back to intersect the underbody chasis members is also worth considering IMHO

Cheers
Chimo

Finally got around to mocking up the rear bar , just need to add some tie down points for Jerry's and paint , and fitted the drop jacks

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Originally Posted by Chimo

Love the concept.

Do not like the weld across the drawbar extension section. Advice from engineers was to avoid cross welds rather better to locate welds along the tube sections. This certainly was proven when building chisel plow and similar ag box section style units.

Kallen's point about extending the drawbar further back to intersect the underbody chasis members is also worth considering IMHO

Cheers
Chimo

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its already been said - about making the draw bar go from under the chassis
when we did a similar thing to my Father-in-laws Camper years ago, we used 75x50x4RHS
started from behind the axle and went to the front - big long V shape - made it about 2m from front of the Van to the hitch

as the chassis was sitting on that for over half the Van length, and was welded everywhere possibly known, he never had a problem with it.......

Yeah , I'm happy with it , the guy that will be doing the mod plate reckons more then strong enough due to the high tensile spring steel on edge under the draw bar , and runs from hitch back to past the new chassis , and the bracing behind the hitch box ,