Tralier mod time I think....

Since we haven't got the room for a nice camper trailer I thought to do some mods to my trailer I have just so its more camper friendly for me.
The trailer I have currently is,

• 7' x 4' with 18" high sides.
• Well made from a local trailer guy.
• Stock trailer suspension, slipper type
• Stock 5 stud holden pattern wheels.
• two rear/ side mounted jerry can holders
• LED lights all round. :)

First thing I want to do is lengthen the draw bar and set it back further than where it is now. Almost at the front of the trailer.
The draw bar now is currently 1200mm from the front of the trailer to the centre of the tow ball.
What is a good length to have this longer at? Its currently using 50 x 75 RHS I think its called for the draw bar. I will cut it off and want to re-weld further down the trailer plus making the draw bar longer so I can fit a nice big box on it, to fit my 80L fridge and battery box. OR a box big enough to fit a battery box and other camping gear , then the fridge goes in the trailer....
Second is to scrap the suspension on it and get something better and higher so I can change the hubs to six stud and put some 31's under it. I don't need or want independent suspension too. There is shops that sell complete spring setups that i can just buy and weld on isn't there?
Third is to give the girl a sandblast and new paint job.
I eventually want to fit a water tank under it too maybe...

So I want to do the first, first. I have all the tools but I only have an ARC welder. One of the Blue CIG ones with the 2.5mm and 3.2mm switch. I'm a pretty good welder, not great but I can weld....
I kind of thought i might need a mig but I dunno.

Suggest away.

Thanks.

Junk the springs and axle if you are chasing hubs too.

Fit full eye to eye springs rated to at least 750kg and a minimum of a 45mm square axle. 6 stud hubs and while your there electric brakes. You are only going to do it once. do it right.

100x50 Box section drawer bar is a winner and the longer the better. at least 1500 to 1800 forward will tow straight and true and be a please to reverse.

While the thing is upside down buy your water tank (Cheap) and weld in appropriately spaced bearers under it to bolt it up. the tank will weigh 60kgs to 90kgs when its full. depending how big it is.

Google search => Trailer Parts

There is plenty about. you should figure out what you really want to end up with though?? or you will spend a bit of cash.

Have fun

The longer draw bar the better for reversing. Mine on my work trailer is 1800 from the front to the tow ball and its a pleasure to reverse also you can make a platform or put a larger toolbox on there for storage


Just tap it in just tappy tappy tappy

Hey mate, mine is very similar to what you have planned already, if you want me to take to snaps I could upload them for u this arvo?

I got my trailer from an RFS auction and it's solid, plus it fit 31's on straight away


Tappin

Your sounding similar to my olds to.
As above go a 750-1000kg spring rate, set to the height you want (dont forget to deduct the tyre increase), and add a couple of shocks. It makes so much difference its not funny...

And the water tank.. great idea.. mine is forward of the axle and is 70ltrs.
My only grip is the tow ball weight.. the axle really needs to move forward 50mm...

So imo, do the tank (rough mount), toolbox, spare tyre (if mounting up front) and draw bar, balance the trailer so you have ~30-50kg on the ball when tank is empty and you should be around the 70-80kg once tank is full.. once happy with axle position, weld it on...

125x50x3mm shs is the pick for the draw bar if mounting box and tyre up front.
And also go an electric brake system with override/ hand brake on the hitch... Imo a nice little feature to have. I wish I did...

Also stick will be fine. 16tc low hydrogen would be the pick of the rods.

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

1800mm draw bar , Alco greasable off road springs , Triple draw bar. O'brien off road coupling , 6 stud hubs, solid axle and electric brakes, Keep all receipts, is your current trailer reg'd or have id plate?? Turn it up side down and cut everything off and build it that way. Believe it or not there is a formula on draw bar length, you might be better selling this trailer and getting a 7x5 you'll thank yourself, I've built and modded a 6x4 and 2 hilux tub trailers plus countless repairs to trailers, PM if you require a hand , new saftey chain needs to be rated as well as shackles
If you have no proof of purchase for your trailer forget it, I still have receipts for steel for mine as person forgot to stamp "sighted" at rego branch

My bad thought it was 6x4,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 7x4 is OK as can box in sides for extra storage,battery box etc

A swing up wheel 250mm wheel as easier to move, pre weld any tabs on draw bar for box mounts plus extra for future mods. Drop over and check mine out
I can run 33's but run 285s as not as wide, 30psi could sit on 140 with this in tow,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

1800mm draw bar , Alco greasable off road springs , Triple draw bar. O'brien off road coupling , 6 stud hubs, solid axle and electric brakes, Keep all receipts, is your current trailer reg'd or have id plate?? Turn it up side down and cut everything off and build it that way. Believe it or not there is a formula on draw bar length, you might be better selling this trailer and getting a 7x5 you'll thank yourself, I've built and modded a 6x4 and 2 hilux tub trailers plus countless repairs to trailers, PM if you require a hand , new saftey chain needs to be rated as well as shackles
If you have no proof of purchase for your trailer forget it, I still have receipts for steel for mine as person forgot to stamp "sighted" at rego branch

My bad thought it was 6x4,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 7x4 is OK as can box in sides for extra storage,battery box etc

A swing up wheel 250mm wheel as easier to move, pre weld any tabs on draw bar for box mounts plus extra for future mods. Drop over and check mine out
I can run 33's but run 285s as not as wide, 30psi could sit on 140 with this in tow,

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That floor always make me dribble a little..

I'll stick some photos up of mine so you got some idea of different designs.

Here is my rig in the drive way
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2013/02/48.jpg
Nice and level, but only because if airbags in the rear..

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Thanks Westy, I'm great with Hindsight, I have recessed a 100ah DC battery beneath the floor.
hindsight part its right up the front near the water tank. Should have put it over axle or tailgate end.
I'll put more pics here, you may see an idea you like. The flares are From China $180, Tojo OE were $800 a pair

Thanks for the input guys. But I think your ideas are way ahead of mine. I just want to make the drawbar longer to fit a box on, raise it up a bit so I can fit bigger wheels under it to match the troll's height, better suspension, doesn't need to be the best suspension, I see no need for electric brakes as its not a camper trailer, just a plain old trailer made a little better. I wont be converting this to a camper at all. It will still be used as a normal everyday trailer...
Also can I use my arc welder? I have welded many times before but have found welding the normal 25x25 square steel can blow holes in it sometimes using 2.5mm rods. I don't want to be doing that.
Plus. How in the hell am I suppose to turn it upside down? I'm no tank... :)

Plus TD. It did come with a ID plate but who knows where it is now. Also I think the standard towball will suffice.

So 1800mm seems to be the go for drawbar length too? Now I just have to work out where and how long the lengths of steel I need to buy will be.

Plus again. I don't have a lot of time on my hands so I was planning to do one bit at a time. E.g Drawbar first. Then springs....

Sorry mate. We got a bit carried away hay.. arc/ stick welder is fine, as I mentioned though 16tc's are the better option.
If your going to be putting a bit of load on it then a spring upgrade and shocks are a good option.

A few mates over to turn it over and move it.. Till be easy...:p

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Been there done that to I'll PM Where I got my trailer stuff from not far off ring rd for you in Tulla
Disregard the 4x4 in the background, they were the DARK YEARS best not revisited

Was there the other day as the mob I use have moved and are still not set up........ I break trailers all the time and am on my third gardening trailer!!

Build a tuffer trailer in 1/8 checker plate, that one in pic [Blue} used to carry a Bobcat
PM sent
Don't weld drawbar to tub like my pic, just underneath both sides, smear silicon instead

Just worked out that the spring rate on the current slippers is 600KG. So going 750kg would be better...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories

Your sounding similar to my olds to.
As above go a 750-1000kg spring rate, set to the height you want (dont forget to deduct the tyre increase), and add a couple of shocks. It makes so much difference its not funny...

And the water tank.. great idea.. mine is forward of the axle and is 70ltrs.
My only grip is the tow ball weight.. the axle really needs to move forward 50mm...

So imo, do the tank (rough mount), toolbox, spare tyre (if mounting up front) and draw bar, balance the trailer so you have ~30-50kg on the ball when tank is empty and you should be around the 70-80kg once tank is full.. once happy with axle position, weld it on...

125x50x3mm shs is the pick for the draw bar if mounting box and tyre up front.
And also go an electric brake system with override/ hand brake on the hitch... Imo a nice little feature to have. I wish I did...

Also stick will be fine. 16tc low hydrogen would be the pick of the rods.

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

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Just going through these comments again and come to think of it, I have to really watch out I don't make the draw bar too long ad then I will be putting too much weight up front. Unfortunately I cant reposition the axles as the guards are already there. Maybe a water tank in the rear might be better to even things up a bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Just going through these comments again and come to think of it, I have to really watch out I don't make the draw bar too long ad then I will be putting too much weight up front. Unfortunately I can reposition the axles as the guards are already there. Maybe a water tank in the rear might be better to even things up a bit.

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Yes that is a option.

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Long draw bar for me always.... much better handling.

I have owned many trailers including 3 gardening ones and swear by a long draw bar.

Plus you get that room for tool box or something else.

Ok here are a couple of the axle/ shocks and tank setup.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2013/02/53.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2013/02/54.jpg

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Think I'm gonna have to call in the big guns to help flip here over. BA! Keep your phone on mate :D

When I had my camper built by Tambo Campers I had an 80lt water tank placed behind the axle and a 60lt tank I. Front of the axle. Works a treat