GQ Alternator upgrade??

Hi I am running a GQ patrol wagon with a TD42 N/A on a stock alternator with the vacuum attached to the back of it...

My question lies in the upgade of this alternator...

I have a winch that draws 4.5kw and a air compressor that starts up at 90A...I am looking to fit a pile of LED lamps around the rig and willbe eventually running a 40l Engle and extra battery on DCDC+solar...
I wonder how this lil power plant will handle the load if put to the test( not likely all will run at once but if in situation act of God...)

What is the most out put I can get out of an Alernator on the TD42?
Is the Alternator I have only 80A?
What are the recomended brands/tried n tested?
Is it worth going big on the alternator or has anyone? and thoughts on getting a separate/electric vacuum pump?

Many thanks in advance:)

The factory Alt is 70amp. You can get a 90amp and used to be able to get a 120amp. I have a 120amp. @MB had his rebuilt to 120amp whiah is worth investigating.

Light bars donr pull as many amps as the old HID but srill.need a bit. If you do alot of slow night driving then 70amp will leave you wanting.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

The factory Alt is 70amp. You can get a 90amp and used to be able to get a 120amp. I have a 120amp. @MB had his rebuilt to 120amp whiah is worth investigating.

Light bars donr pull as many amps as the old HID but srill.need a bit. If you do alot of slow night driving then 70amp will leave you wanting.

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Yup I thought as much...I tried picking the 12v shop gurus brain but he recomended me to go with Auto sparkie advice or someone with direct experience.

my worry sits in the case of Winch work in the dark with the fridge and charger on.

Haven’t had a great deal of fun out there lately with my pimped up/bought 170amp GQTD42 alt sorry mate. It is bolted onto a 6.5Chev as a direct easy swap over for the 90amp Mitsubishi original conversion one that I cooked too. Vacuum on rear still was needed for the V belt Chev conversion. Recently installed a large external rectifier pack with good hopes and nearly cooked it again but slower. Have got the radiators oil/water finally shedding off so much heat now that I think with large elecy power demands and engine bay heat poor thing aint coping on the tuff stuff. Works amazing on snow trips hauling out rigs with its 6hp Mahle HM motor though.
For me, and my stupid elecy power demands I’ve taken next steps with a Delco Remy 210amp jobbie out of the states and saving for a 12v 6amp GVR vacuum pump.


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Try Auto8 on fleabay or they have their own website , mine is an upgrade will check tomorrow if I remember what the amps are but 130 from memory , they have a fantastic warranty on their stuff but keep the receipt in a safe spot just in case .

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Originally Posted by MB

Haven’t had a great deal of fun out there lately with my pimped up/bought 170amp GQTD42 alt sorry mate. It is bolted onto a 6.5Chev as a direct easy swap over for the 90amp Mitsubishi original conversion one that I cooked too. Vacuum on rear still was needed for the V belt Chev conversion. Recently installed a large external rectifier pack with good hopes and nearly cooked it again but slower. Have got the radiators oil/water finally shedding off so much heat now that I think with large elecy power demands and engine bay heat poor thing aint coping on the tuff stuff. Works amazing on snow trips hauling out rigs with its 6hp Mahle HM motor though.
For me, and my stupid elecy power demands I’ve taken next steps with a Delco Remy 210amp jobbie out of the states and saving for a 12v 6amp GVR vacuum pump.


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Geez I might have to run an extra belt for something like that :jawdrop:...
I am hoping a "get me outa trouble" 120-150A will keep the Winch and lights going at worst I can isolate the rest in a bad sich. Still need it to bolt in the norms possy on the TD42.

I hear you brother, will be utilising twin V 13A’s on this next 210amp attempt which are apparently better than an 8 rib serpy grip originally planned.
Not so sure stock TD42 like belt setups appreciate any more than 90amp as also isolated/shutdown half arse tested. Good mobs like PatrolApart have gone back to them instead of a once available 120amper.


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Just checked mine is a 100 amp not 130 .

I’m also flat out still trying to learn all this great electrical caper too MB mate. ET’s & PeeBee’s here have kindly enlightened me to such things as alt pulley ratios, grip, heat and still trying to get my head around the constant load and short demand duty cycles of power suckers in our wicked Patrol trucks mate :-) !



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If you uprate the alternator capacity get it in writing that the diodes/rectifier has been upgraded for the additional current capacity. MB's 170amp unit from memory didn't come with a warranty to that effect, plus the 170amps blew the diodes apart. Both he and I purchased an external rectifier module from the USA to assist in splitting the current and reducing the heat. I am happy with mine, but am only running a 100amp alternator as the main and a 200amp as a secondary. The 100a unit is fitted with the additional rectifiers and it runs well under all conditions. MB's airflow is killing hi under the bonnet still, but there is a solution to that - cowing as described @MB on last trip., I think the 120amp units are likely within th capacity of the diodes rather than any higher unless you go for more diodes. Hope this helps

Have a look at this link. MB and I bought the 420 amp units, cost me $110 for the auto elec to add the cables into the alternator, then I fitted the 'box'.

https://alternatorparts.com/quicktif...rectifier.html

@PeeBee. Interesting concept. Have you installed a clean air inlet to the fan? I was thinking that some sort of pipe from you snorkel might do the trick. And I am very curios to know if you gained or lost a few RPM compared to before installation when the alternator was under load.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

@PeeBee. Interesting concept. Have you installed a clean air inlet to the fan? I was thinking that some sort of pipe from you snorkel might do the trick. And I am very curios to know if you gained or lost a few RPM compared to before installation when the alternator was under load.

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The box is open to the under bonnet environment. I initially was going to mount it inside the cabin, but it is designed for the duty so left it stock standard and just mounted it up high on passenger side behind the alternator. Regards performance, it simply allows easier current flow so no detectable drag. I have however picked up a better voltage charge rate, which is understandable. The little mitsubishi pajero alternator supplied by Brunswick Diesels would only ever charge to say 13.8v, have had 2 of them now, same charge profile, but with this box, I get the full 14.4- 14.6 on start up then it tapers off as expected.

Cheers fellas, I will be looking into this when upgrading for sure.