EGR Block on CRD Patrol

Hi everyone. I've now got my blanking plate and scangaugeII and am ready to give this a crack.

I read somewhere it's best to fully remove intercooler to get better access to the egr valve. I will try giving intercooler a good clean once off.

Is there anything else for me to consider with doing this?

I read the CRD ECU readjusts itself afterwards and controls turbo boost (whereas the DI patrol can have over boosting issues and need manual control)

Any other tips or links would be greatly appreciated. Is there a video of the whole process done on a CRD patrol?

I'm a bit of a noob with mechanics but like anything, willing to give things a try myself first.


Cheers,

Aaron.

You shouldn't need to remove the IC but if it makes life easier then do it. Plus you can give the IC a good clean as you have said. Its not a hard job, just a bit tricky because of where its located. You will more than likely find the motor may overboost and the engine light may come on too, because the ECU will think the EGR valve is broken. As you have a scangauge you can just clear the fault codes and be on your merry way.

Thanks mudski. I bought the blanking plate that has slots rather than holes to make it easier to slide in. I bought the scangauge mainly for the reason to clear the error code as i didnt really want a 10mm hole in plate as some suggest.

Hey azza just a heads up after you blank it my boost levels spiked really bad and it gave me horrible fuel consumption on my 2014 CRD, the 401 code only comes up once every few months if you leave it idling for to long, it was a one longneck job installing it with taking off the intercooler

I don't get why overboost can be an issue after fitting the plate. Anyone care to enlighten me?

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Originally Posted by ThefattymattymkII

Hey azza just a heads up after you blank it my boost levels spiked really bad and it gave me horrible fuel consumption on my 2014 CRD, the 401 code only comes up once every few months if you leave it idling for to long, it was a one longneck job installing it with taking off the intercooler

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Hi matty. That's interesting. My fuel consumption is bad enough as it is. I thought blocking the egr might improve that somewhat. Did you adjust your turbo or remove the plate altogether?

@matty: I've been reading a fair bit on overboosting issues after installing plate on CRD. Did you clean your MAF sensor and reset ECU when doing the block?

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Originally Posted by Crimpy

I don't get why overboost can be an issue after fitting the plate. Anyone care to enlighten me?

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Because the ECU is still controlling the VNT vane angle as if the EGR was working.
This can give you momentary boost spikes while the ECU backs off the vane angle to reduce the pressures.

If it happens and the severity varies due to exhaust size and other mods, you can either fit a manual boost controller or adjust the VNT actuator (I did the latter).

If the VNT overboosts for too long (rare) you get limp mode from the ECU
If the ECU suss's out that something isn't kosher at idle or start when the EGR is supposed to be wide open you get P0401 code from the ECU
P0401 won't give limp mode but will stay in the fault stack and show up on an OBD11 reader or Nissan Consult.
In my '07 it would also illuminate the CEL every time but some people say they get P0401 and no CEL.

@the evil twin : Did you experience worse fuel economy after block?

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Originally Posted by azzacalabaza

@the evil twin : Did you experience worse fuel economy after block?

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When I did the EGR block it was the sole mod I did at the time and I saw no hugely noticeable change in fuel economy.
If it did change at all it was for the better not worse but not by very much.

Ok. I guess I just need to install it an see what happens. Hopefully I don't get boosting problems. My exhaust size is standard so maybe people get different results with other mods.

As for chipping it. Is there a chip that improves fuel efficiency? If so, what do you recommend and how hard is it to DIY? (like for a dumb person ;))

I had no issues with a full egr block and stock exhaust.
Disconnect the battery while you do the mod and it'll reset the ecu.
Not sure if they relearn things but yea I had no issues..

Only had issues since 3" exhaust has gone on..

Thanks bigguwesty. Seems the 3" upgrade throws things out of wack.

Hey azza sorry for the late reply yeah I did the Maf sensor and disconnected the battery I was getting about 500 kays out of the main tank after the block,and roughly 600 before. I just installed Dawes valve set up( thanks mudski) and put a 3 inch DEA system on in the last few weekends, I went camping last night and did some driving around and so for I have gotten 650 from the main and still have a bit under a quarter of a main tank left��

I had just the block as the sole mod and had it that way for about 7 months, I have the cheapo EDS from 4wd supa centre to clear the codes, it wasn't till I installed a boost gauge that I noticed how bad the spikes were on the freeway between 22-8psi,

Thanks matty. I only have the scanguage at the moment to monitor boost levels. I thought the dawes setup wasnt needed on the CRD patrols?

You won't need boost control if your just doing egr.
The ecu handles that ok..
Again it's just the exhaust which brings out some issues

Awesome. Will post results once I get it done.

I'll disagree with westy there in my instance I defiantly needed some form of boost control with just blocking the EGR mine really didn't like it, the boost spikes were before I did the exhaust and the ECU did a lousy job with the boost control especially at cruising speed, i never got limp mode but I personally think the runs better with boost control.

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Originally Posted by ThefattymattymkII

I'll disagree with westy there in my instance I defiantly needed some form of boost control with just blocking the EGR mine really didn't like it, the boost spikes were before I did the exhaust and the ECU did a lousy job with the boost control especially at cruising speed, i never got limp mode but I personally think the runs better with boost control.

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Yea agree it's better with boost control.
I could feel it surging in the higher gears.
But I never saw above 15 psi on the scangauge.
I did disconnect the battery for the hour or so while doing it..
Wether that has affected the ecu and it's relearnt it's new perameters I'm not sure..

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Originally Posted by Crimpy

I don't get why overboost can be an issue after fitting the plate. Anyone care to enlighten me?

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What ET has stated, but my thought is because now the intake is getting 100% cleaner and cooler air, not a mix of dirty hot exhaust gas aswell, the air can be compressed more, being cooler, hence slightly over boosting now due to a higher compression rate in the intake system.
I'm no mechanic, but that just made sense to me. Cooler air can be compressed more....

I've had zero issues with blocking plate alone

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Originally Posted by growler2058

I've had zero issues with blocking plate alone

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Yeah it seems to be the luck of the draw with the CRD's. Many have zero issues, many have issues.

Hey guys. Once I loosen the nuts from the EGR inlet can you just nudge it back to slide in plate or do I need to remove mounting brackets etc.? How long should the process take?

I had to undo the bracket to slide the pipe back enough to slot the blanking plate in. 30 mins start to finish (intercooler removed)


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Hi guys just reading this thread for a crd you dont need the dawes and needle valves? Just blocking the egr should be ok. I have a boost gauge in. Sorry if its a dumb question still learning about this stuff

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Originally Posted by Apples

Hi guys just reading this thread for a crd you dont need the dawes and needle valves? Just blocking the egr should be ok. I have a boost gauge in. Sorry if its a dumb question still learning about this stuff

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Its a suck it and see. Just the blanking plate 9/10 youll be fine. Throw on a bigger exhaust and you may well have issues

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Originally Posted by mudski

snip... but my thought is because now the intake is getting 100% cleaner and cooler air, not a mix of dirty hot exhaust gas aswell, the air can be compressed more, being cooler, hence slightly over boosting now due to a higher compression rate in the intake system.

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Hmm... not sure about that.
Agree you can compress colder air for more oxygen but don't think that is what is producing the boost spikes in this case.
Mainly based on the fact that the EGR block doesn't change the air temp in the intake/turbo/intercooler

Only two things compress air, the Turbo and the Pistons.
The pistons are post-EGR block so the ECU/Scangauge/Boost gauge or whatever can't see that pressure.
That pretty much means the only way the ECU or gauges can 'see' an overboost is if the Turbo supplies too much pressure or if you get a back pressure.
I would be tempted to rule out back pressure as the EGR block is now a constant.

Sooo... I reckon the ECU is seeing the inputs (throttle, engine load, air flow, air temp, boost pressure) and commanding increased vane angle and closing the EGR valve it thinks is open and/or (depending on what is happening) has trouble backing off the vane angle to reduce the boost when it wants the EGR to open.

Bottom line is it doesn't matter too much either way as no EGR is awesome for the engine and shithouse for the planet :-)

Thanks guys, is that with a hole in the blanking plate nor no hole. Sorry for this just want to get it right

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Originally Posted by Apples

Thanks guys, is that with a hole in the blanking plate nor no hole. Sorry for this just want to get it right

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Mine is no hole

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Originally Posted by growler2058

Mine is no hole

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So was mine

Get one with no hole and if you see issues, just remove the plate an drill it.

Hey guys. Still haven't done mine yet but planning to (time is a luxury). I was wondering with the EGR block on CRD do I need to have an EGT guage installed?

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Originally Posted by azzacalabaza

Hey guys. Still haven't done mine yet but planning to (time is a luxury). I was wondering with the EGR block on CRD do I need to have an EGT guage installed?

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No you don't bud.

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gonna give this a crack hopefully no issues

Hi guys I have blocked the egr and ran the Dawes and needle valves but engine light comes on still the plate is the one with no hole. Dose this mean I need to put a hole in and if so how big should it be?

Apples

If there no negative impact on performance. No. If there is, which there wont, yes. If the light annoys you. Yes. 8mm. Or get a scan gauge and just clear the error.
Some crds bring on the light, some dont. Its a wierd thing...

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Thanks mate I will get a scan gauge. The car is running fine.

You will love the Scan gauge. It shows so much info. Very handy bit of kit.

Love my scangauge.
Have it as a live feed..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/11/157.jpg