Gammon & flinders ranges trip

Recently returned from a ten day trip to the Gammon and Flinders Ranges, to sum it up in one word - WOW.
Absolutely loved it and can't wait to go back again, last time I was up there was 30 years ago and tented at Wilpena Pound.

We did about 3,000km and averaged 14.33 L/100km, best was 12.44 and worst 18.95 - no towing but pretty well loaded up. At this point I have to say I love my automatic, 26psi and it went everywhere, didn't even use the rear locker and relied on the auto hubs.

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

Cut across from Leigh Creek to get there and the numbers of Emus and wild goats were staggering. Apparently there are 200,000 wild goats in the Flinders and Operation Bounceback is putting a concentrated effort into eradicating them. When leaving Arkaroola we were advised that if taking the Copley Rd to wind up the windows and run aircon on recirc as they had shot 14,000 in the week and with 35c temps they would be humming.

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We spent four nights at Arkaroola (we got a great deal and stayed in the Mawson Lodge), I've had various reports on the place but I believe it was worth it and would happily go back. It's their low season and they only had four lots in the caravan park and about the same number in the camp grounds, the motel had about the same number so we basically had the place to ourselves.

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Did all the self drive tours available and this involved lots of low range and some gnarly ascents and descents, the views were spectacular. It was very rare to see another car at all but the wildlife was abundant, especially the yellow footed rock wallaby which is making a big comeback. We didn't do any of the astronomy tours.

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Decided to send up big and do the ridge top tour ($155), in my case it was money well spent. When I booked it I wasn't aware that the Sillers Lookout part had been closed all year due to the condition of the track, it was unsafe for the open top trucks they use due to their high centre of gravity. Here's where I got lucky. Since there were only three starters the owners son Mark Sprigg took us in an 80 series Toyota, he asked if we wanted to have a crack at getting to the lookout? Well I was in the front passenger seat in a flash and we were off, Mark is only 23 but knew the track pretty well (naturally).

His commentary was brilliant and you could feel his passion for the place. He showed us where the bulldozer got to and died (sat there for over a month waiting for parts to get it out), once you passed that spot you can see why they closed the track. Low range auto, no lockers and the 80 series got to the top, what a view. A lamington and cup of tea to celebrate and we went on our merry way. As it was the only tour for the day he asked if we were in a hurry to get back on time, he got the right answer so he took us to a couple of significant spots that aren't on the usual tour. After about 4.5hrs into a 4hr tour I knew my wife would be getting a little anxious. Couldn't stop laughing when we arrived back after 5hrs to be greeted by the police, my wife had seen them drive in and thought the worst. She asked them if they were there because of an accident and they laughed and re-assured her all was good.

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Breakfast was included in our package and also two dinners so we utilised the camp kitchen for the other couple of nights. Next stop was Wilpena Pound and Willow Springs (via the Blinman Rd)

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To be continued.......

That road was shockers earlier in the year , magic area .

Love the pics. My last trip out that way was some 20years ago in my MK shorty. But. Who is this jack bloke?:smile:

Terrific photos and good info too, thanks

After leaving Arkaroola we headed towards Wilpena Pound and used this as our base to explore the surrounding highlights. I think all the goats that escaped the heli shooters in the national park were congregated along the Blinman road, mobs of 50+ were not uncommon.

Willow Springs Station

The Reynolds family Willow Springs Station hosts a variety of accommodation and a pretty amazing self drive track called Skytrek.
I'd heard this was pretty impressive and well worth the visit so naturally I had to check it out. This 80km track consists of a series of station roads, old mining and goat shooters tracks, and a fire break. Cost is $65 per vehicle and estimated time is about 6 hours to complete.

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You get a key and a map of the track, also several pages of 50 numbered points of interest along the track to check out. After signing your rights away Brendan marked three sections in red on the map and advised extreme caution, this caught my attention. All points of interest are clearly marked on the track, you reset your speedo at the start and it gives you an indication of the distance to the next point (not to accurate if running bigger tyres).

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The first half of the track is fairly sedate with limited need for 4wd but has plenty of interesting sights, I've got about 400 pictures of the trip but I'll only post a couple of significant ones here. None of the pictures can really do the area justice.

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There are a couple of areas that have Petroglyphs which were carved long before the Adnyamathanha inhabited the area.

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Old Moxans Hut was restored by the Nissan Patrol Club of SA some time ago, one of our members Rock Trol was involved with this.

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Second motorised grader in the Hawker district, used on Willow Springs Station until 1982.

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The Ochre Cliffs follow the creek bed, amazing changes of colour along the way.

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At the halfway mark we were well ahead of schedule, this soon changed at point 43 - Engage 4WD is quite prominent on the map.

We drop fairly steeply down to the original Willow Springs Waterhole/Spring and from here it got fairly hairy. We were the only vehicle on the track that day and I'm not used to driving on loose stone, I soon learnt.

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Next was a massive climb up a barren hill of loose stone to Prominent Hill Lookout 704m above sea level, the view was impressive BUT not as impressive as the descent!

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Thought I'd better give the forum a plug in the visitors book.

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The next 12km was a mixture of steep ascents and descents of various lookouts, the highest being Homestead Lookout at 725m.

I learnt heaps about my cars ability and mine on this trip and must give a big shout out to my wife for not getting out an walking. Plenty will probably think it was fairly easy but I rate it as the hardest I've ever done, I'm more used to mud and the added security of trees to stop you rolling forever. Total time taken was just over 6.5 hours.

To be continued.....

Great writeup Jack. Flinders are spectacular indeed.

Ahh now I gotta go back , amazing .

After leaving Arkaroola we based ourselves at Wilpena Pound while we explored the area.
Wilpena Pound has certainly changed since my last visit 30 years ago, all the drives are closed and they concentrate on walking tracks (I like driving).

At Wilpena we attended a welcome to country by the Adnyamathanha people, informative and interesting. Scenery around Wilpena was pretty special (not to mention their visitor information centre). Since I'd seen so many Emus I thought I'd better try one for dinner that evening, smoked Emu bruschetta which didn't impress my wife.

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Stokes Hill Lookout is next to Willow Springs and well worth a look, amazing views of the district and Wilpena Pound.

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Arkaroo Rock was another point of interest.

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I was fascinated by the Appealinna Ruins, and spent quite a bit of time exploring them. It's hard to imagine the hardships the early settlers endured in their fruitless task of trying to establish themselves. The information and signage for visitors is a credit to the organisers, everything was explained.

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Rockwall to keep the stock out of the garden. Imagine what they would have given for a roll of ringlock!

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Note the stone shelves in the corners, there were several ruins and all had these.

Well that's about it for my trip report, absolutely loved it and the photos really don't do the place justice.

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As a thank-you to my wife for allowing me to indulge my folly we spent a day sightseeing in Hahndorf.

The end....

Thank you for sharing Jack, great pictures and write up mate!


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When we were at the ruins earlier this year there were dead kangaroos in most of the ruins , one of the ones pictured had three dead Roos and the smell was truly something horrendous .

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Originally Posted by GQtdauto

When we were at the ruins earlier this year there were dead kangaroos in most of the ruins , one of the ones pictured had three dead Roos and the smell was truly something horrendous .

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Ruins were clean but I did find a couple of mummified Roos behind one about three ruins in, even took a pic of one. The place is very well maintained considering it’s pretty remote.

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Originally Posted by jack

Ruins were clean but I did find a couple of mummified Roos behind one about three ruins in, even took a pic of one. The place is very well maintained considering it’s pretty remote.

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I can only assume someone did a cull and threw the bodies in the ruins , only ruins that never had at least one dead one in it was the one across the creek the old homestead that had the big veggie garden and owned the spring .

Good to see you had a great time Jack. It’s such a beautiful area.
i was there about three weeks ago for a weekend. Flew in to Adelaide and drove up with some mates. Just did the bush walk up to the top of Wilpena pound and to the Sacred Canyon. Camped, drank beer, ate emu/roo/camel at Parachilna.

The only thing that could have made it better would have been to stay longer.

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Originally Posted by Rock Trol

Good to see you had a great time Jack. It’s such a beautiful area.
i was there about three weeks ago for a weekend. Flew in to Adelaide and drove up with some mates. Just did the bush walk up to the top of Wilpena pound and to the Sacred Canyon. Camped, drank beer, ate emu/roo/camel at Parachilna.

The only thing that could have made it better would have been to stay longer.

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Good to hear, I’m not into walking (well my wife isn’t) so didn’t get to explore to much of Wilpena. Remember you telling me about Skytrek and Moxans Hut, got a picture of the Nissan Patrol Club sign I’ll post up when I get on the pc.

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Originally Posted by jack

Good to hear, I’m not into walking (well my wife isn’t) so didn’t get to explore to much of Wilpena. Remember you telling me about Skytrek and Moxans Hut, got a picture of the Nissan Patrol Club sign I’ll post up when I get on the pc.

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Yeah, it was pretty hard on the old knees. It was a lot easier 25 years ago when I last did it.
There’s still a bit of work to be done on the side walls of the old hut. The club needs to get back there one day.

Nice one Jack, cheers for sharing . Didn't go to a place called Big Moro by any chance? Remember going there years ago with the folks and was a very nice surprise, beautiful little spot. Been meaning to get beck there one day, kinda hard to find it on maps tho. . .

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Hard to believe they had 7 inches of rain there, that would have made an impressive flow in the creeks (once the plains were visible again).

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Originally Posted by Rock Trol

Yeah, it was pretty hard on the old knees. It was a lot easier 25 years ago when I last did it.
There’s still a bit of work to be done on the side walls of the old hut. The club needs to get back there one day.

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Looks like they were back in 2015.

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Had a beer in there for you as well.

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Nice one Jack, cheers for sharing . Didn't go to a place called Big Moro by any chance? Remember going there years ago with the folks and was a very nice surprise, beautiful little spot. Been meaning to get beck there one day, kinda hard to find it on maps tho. . .

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We did drive through Nepabunna but didn't stop, don't recall any signs mentioning Big Moro.

The front part was first restored in 1993. I was with the club in 2015 when we rebuilt the rear wall. The two side walls will also need changing out in the future. We used hand tools like saws, axes and mallets to split and shape the native pine. It was bloody hard wood.

What did the beer taste like Jack?
Warm I guess. :)