New to this, zd30 boosting all over the shop

Ok so i just brought a 2006 zd30tddi manual 355000ks stock as a rock bar from bull bar and snorkel.
I have fitted boost and egt gauges but having trouble with boost or so I think so.
Here's what's happing,
First and second gear no problems with boost nice and smooth and holds around 15/18 psi
Third gear will go 10 psi then drop to 3 psi then will stay there for a bit then it will go to 15 psi and then I feel a jerk then goes straight back down to 3 or even 0 psi
Pretty much the same with forth an fifth
Is this normal for a vnt turbo
Help would be much appreciated

so a 2006 model is not a crd . i reckon your probably hitting limp mode . if you have a dawse and needle valve , adjust the boost to 15 psi , above this you will hit limp mode . use the needle valve to control the rate that the turbo spools up . if you don't have dawse and needle valves my guess is that either you have a 3 inch pipe , or a egt blanking plate or both and they are causing the erratic boost issue , in which case you need a dawes and needle valves to control the boost . but first check all hoses and connections and intercooler for leaks / splits .

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

so a 2006 model is not a crd . i reckon your probably hitting limp mode . if you have a dawse and needle valve , adjust the boost to 15 psi , above this you will hit limp mode . use the needle valve to control the rate that the turbo spools up . if you don't have dawse and needle valves my guess is that either you have a 3 inch pipe , or a egt blanking plate or both and they are causing the erratic boost issue , in which case you need a dawes and needle valves to control the boost . but first check all hoses and connections and intercooler for leaks / splits .

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Thanks for reply
Yup 2006 model with direct injection
Has stock exshaust
Not sure on egr blanking plate how do i tell ?
Replaced all vacuum lines
Checked actuator holds vacuum and does not leak
Intercooler has been pressure tested to 20 psi was good no leaks
No codes coming on
The vains are free (easy to move up and down )
I also have clean maf/map sensors
Changed boost control solenoid (tested and works fine)
And if I put my foot down to over take or hill climb it will still pick up and go but I'll have no boost (in between 0-3psi
I have no idea what it could be

when the boost drops ( say under load , going up a hill ) if you lift your foot off the pedal momentairly then accelerate again , does the boost come up before dropping again . it sounds like this is what is happening . this is hitting limp mode . i am not sure but , i don't think a code is registered when this happens . i would suggest fitting a dawse and needle valve . search this site for info on these valves and also the blanking plates there is lots of pictures , diagrams and location information here that can help you understand and fit and adjust these items if you wish to do so . they are one of ,if not the most common mods that people make to zd motors . study up on these as when they are properly set up you can use them to fine tune them to have the car running the way you want . they are part of the nads system and most would suggest you apply this to your car .

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

when the boost drops ( say under load , going up a hill ) if you lift your foot off the pedal momentairly then accelerate again , does the boost come up before dropping again . it sounds like this is what is happening . this is hitting limp mode . i am not sure but , i don't think a code is registered when this happens . i would suggest fitting a dawse and needle valve . search this site for info on these valves and also the blanking plates there is lots of pictures , diagrams and location information here that can help you understand and fit and adjust these items if you wish to do so . they are one of ,if not the most common mods that people make to zd motors . study up on these as when they are properly set up you can use them to fine tune them to have the car running the way you want . they are part of the nads system and most would suggest you apply this to your car .

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Hey mate thanks for the input I'll look up the dawes and needle valve
Also I was having a fiddle this morning and found that the little grub screw thingy that stop the vain arm was all the way out and not stopping it could this be a factor ?

possibley . the boost actuator is very sensitive .i have never played with mine , but others that have , have run into difficulty getting it adjusted right . most just leave it as is from factory. the grub screw has a locknut on it , if it is loose or has vibrated off and the grubscrew has moved it maybe the problem . there are paint markings on it that may help get it back to the right position

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

possibley . the boost actuator is very sensitive .i have never played with mine , but others that have , have run into difficulty getting it adjusted right . most just leave it as is from factory. the grub screw has a locknut on it , if it is loose or has vibrated off and the grubscrew has moved it maybe the problem . there are paint markings on it that may help get it back to the right position

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Ok thanks I want it to be just stock not trying to mod it or anything
But the grub screw dosnt have a locking nut on it also do you think you could post a pic for a reference for me I know it's not gunna be the same but just give me a ball part figure to start thanks

Can I ask which intercooler you have?
If its stock and oily its leaking they all do.
best to buy a fully tigged after market one
Brunswick diesel sell great ones, while your at it you
might want to block the egr valve as well.
a highly recommended mod

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Can I ask which intercooler you have?
If its stock and oily its leaking they all do.
best to buy a fully tigged after market one
Brunswick diesel sell great ones, while your at it you
might want to block the egr valve as well.
a highly recommended mod

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Hey mate stock intercooler as far as I know but it's tig welded and has been pressure tested and all ok

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Originally Posted by Theoblackhammer

Hey mate stock intercooler as far as I know but it's tig welded and has been pressure tested and all ok

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good if they look oily they are leaking even if just a small oily patch

Attachment 79833
this is the first time iv'e tried to upload a photo , hope it works . you can see the grub screw and lock nut and it might give you a starting point on where to set the grub screw

if your intercooler is tigged it is not stock . the end chambers are crimped on on stock units

What you are seeing is normal. Its shit, but normal.
Instead of mucking around with the VNT grub screw and never getting it right, get yourself a manual boost controller (Dawes or Tillix), and a needle valve (does the same thing as adjusting the grub screw but much easier to do) Contact @Avo here. I know he have a Dawes and needle valve he wants to sell off thats never been used.
In a nutshell, the Dawes will simply limit your boost level, say 18psi. The needle valve allows you to adjust and control how fast the turbo will spool up. Then say good bye to those bouncy boost levels...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

Attachment 79833
this is the first time iv'e tried to upload a photo , hope it works . you can see the grub screw and lock nut and it might give you a starting point on where to set the grub screw

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So clean lol thanks a lot mate

got me buggered why you guys with zd30s don,t convert your vacuum set up which causes all the bullsh-t , blown pistons, cracked heads, limp mode,ect,ect easy to convert to boost using the same bracket on the turbo, i used a boost rising arm accuator from a ford supercharger or MALES in melb have then for $125 they have 2 nipples vac or boost either one raises the arm i cut the adj arm from the old unit, made sure it was 90mm long from the base to the top of the adjuster then carefully welded it to the new accuator arm, threw in a boost controller ,set it to 18lb and guess what i have never had a single problem since, i can blow the doors off a factory td42 turbo with a few mods, my truck is auto and it pulls like a v/8, bottom end is so much stronger , untill i did this mod i was about to sell it, as i had enough of it and months of drama, truck of the road ect ect , now i love it and will keep it until cancer gets it

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Originally Posted by 4818adams

got me buggered why you guys with zd30s don,t convert your vacuum set up which causes all the bullsh-t , blown pistons, cracked heads, limp mode,ect,ect easy to convert to boost using the same bracket on the turbo, i used a boost rising arm accuator from a ford supercharger or MALES in melb have then for $125 they have 2 nipples vac or boost either one raises the arm i cut the adj arm from the old unit, made sure it was 90mm long from the base to the top of the adjuster then carefully welded it to the new accuator arm, threw in a boost controller ,set it to 18lb and guess what i have never had a single problem since, i can blow the doors off a factory td42 turbo with a few mods, my truck is auto and it pulls like a v/8, bottom end is so much stronger , untill i did this mod i was about to sell it, as i had enough of it and months of drama, truck of the road ect ect , now i love it and will keep it until cancer gets it

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A Vacuum controlled turbo on the ZD30 is the cause of cracked heads and blown pistons? Why did I not pick up on this earlier?

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Originally Posted by mudski

A Vacuum controlled turbo on the ZD30 is the cause of cracked heads and blown pistons? Why did I not pick up on this earlier?

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Bloody apprentice

Sent from my SM-A205YN using Tapatalk

Hey Theoblackhammer by sling shot mate I hope u get this message I have been reading through this thread mate I’ve got the same problem with my zd30 I’ve done everything even changed the turbo mate by any chance did u find out what it was

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Originally Posted by mudski

A Vacuum controlled turbo on the ZD30 is the cause of cracked heads and blown pistons? Why did I not pick up on this earlier?

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this guy :trink13:

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Originally Posted by Jay01

Hey Theoblackhammer by sling shot mate I hope u get this message I have been reading through this thread mate I’ve got the same problem with my zd30 I’ve done everything even changed the turbo mate by any chance did u find out what it was

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Put more oil in the sump.
Apart from that, good thread dredge :smiley_thumbs_up: and good luck