Do I need adjsutable panhards?

OK, I measured the 'offset from one side to the other and the Passenger side rear wheel is 2mm further to the passenger side than the drivers, so if I was to split the difference the most I would be looking to adjust is 1mm - is this really a necessity? For me the only tangible gain is another 1mm of clearance between the tailshaft and the belly tank. This with the suspension' down' or airbags deflated - so expect this will change as I inflate the bags and level the rear of the vehicle. Just curious as to what the dimension actually is that pushes you to needing the adjustable panhards or not? Thoughts appreciated.

If it were me, i would. Only because its 1mm out. Lol.

Yep will change as it goes up with the airbags as the angle gets bigger. They will also be a stronger unit too so defiantly worth it. Also strongly advise upgrading rear lower control arms as they are weak as piss if you haven't already. .

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The point of an adjustable panard is to return the cetre line of the body to the cetre line of the chassis at Ride Height. Because of the set length of the factory panard it is set for a centre over centre position at factory ride height.

As you add spring height the axis of the standard panard pushes the car body off centre. The more spring height the worst it gets.

Assuming you had a 4" lift it might compress to standard height when working but likely will not go full compression often. The adjustable panard is to return your neutral ride position.

You need to take your measurement at ride height mate.

Thanks Guys, will level it up to ride height and remeasure. Is there a particular brand to buy? I see there are a couple of different styles, some seem more 'straight than others which have a bit of a bend. I see they are all around the 30mm dia solid bar and fine pitch thread. There is a bit of a spread in price also, so recommendations would be good. @Rossco, trailing arms you say are weak, but mine have not been hit - why did your fail? As @MB will attest , getting mine out will be difficult as it will require the removal of the 'bum in a bucket' aux fuel tank, where Brown Davis have seen fit to design the installation that covers access to the chassis bolt - won't look forward to that activity.

Saw these on line, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FRONT-RE...53.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Re...sid=m570.l1313

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-P...sid=m570.l1313

Buy a really good brand and make doubly sure that the thing is done up really tight. A young local fitted his and after a couple of trips the front panhard stripped out. He was only going slow , but he lost control and nearly rolled.

See what RoadRunner have. IIRC thats where I got mine from.

Yeah roadrunner are good have drag link & tie rod from them. Also roadsafe do good stuff too have lower control arms from them. Lower control arms are pain with the belly tank but only takes one knock from a log or rock and will bend like a banana and be a potential weekend ruiner, essential upgrade i reckon if tracking any harder stuff. .

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Thanks Guys, will level it up to ride height and remeasure. Is there a particular brand to buy? I see there are a couple of different styles, some seem more 'straight than others which have a bit of a bend. I see they are all around the 30mm dia solid bar and fine pitch thread. There is a bit of a spread in price also, so recommendations would be good. @Rossco, trailing arms you say are weak, but mine have not been hit - why did your fail? As @MB will attest , getting mine out will be difficult as it will require the removal of the 'bum in a bucket' aux fuel tank, where Brown Davis have seen fit to design the installation that covers access to the chassis bolt - won't look forward to that activity.

Saw these on line, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FRONT-RE...53.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Re...sid=m570.l1313

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-P...sid=m570.l1313

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Hi Phil.

replacing the lower trailing arms is a no brainer mate. i run HD replacements on both cars and it is nearly the first mod i did to the GUIV when i bought it. The Nissan ones are sooooooo thin and weak, you have ben lucky. I have superior 4140 stuff under both cars.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Thanks Guys, will level it up to ride height and remeasure. Is there a particular brand to buy? I see there are a couple of different styles, some seem more 'straight than others which have a bit of a bend. I see they are all around the 30mm dia solid bar and fine pitch thread. There is a bit of a spread in price also, so recommendations would be good. @Rossco, trailing arms you say are weak, but mine have not been hit - why did your fail? As @MB will attest , getting mine out will be difficult as it will require the removal of the 'bum in a bucket' aux fuel tank, where Brown Davis have seen fit to design the installation that covers access to the chassis bolt - won't look forward to that activity.

Saw these on line, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FRONT-RE...53.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Re...sid=m570.l1313

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-P...sid=m570.l1313

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Yes I have broken one too. Luckily I kinked it up the bush and it did not break until I reversed it out of my driveway at home. Would have been a bad day if it had broken out on the tracks.
If you ever do take your aux tank out then remove that bolt, cut the tip off it and put it through the other side.
Somebody had the foresight to see that problem when AB and I installed our aux tanks at his house.

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OK, so looking around I see there are upper and lower control arms and front and rear panhards. The control arms are offered in adjustable as are some of the lower. Also there are upper control arms with a bend to clear fuel tanks. i am assuming I don't need the bent upper adjustable units as the factory straight ones dont hit the fuel tank now? Is it complicating the setup by having the control arms adjustable or simply go for the +11mm units for the 2-3" lift range? Do I ned to change the upper control arms at all?

Hey Phil, you can get away without replacing the uppers IMO, although just as thin are shorter so stronger and out of harms way enough not to pose an issue. I had a bit cut out of my tank to clear the upper but if yours is clearing probably will be fine if not a bent one is an easier away to do it. My lowers are fixed but longer and would be fine for yours i reckon . .

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OK, thanks guys, Just had a good talk with darren and the order of play from his perspective is 1) lower trailing arms, 2) Drag link behind front diff, 3) tierod in front of front diff, defer the front and rear panhards for now. This bloody car is a money sinkhole!

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

OK, thanks guys, Just had a good talk with darren and the order of play from his perspective is 1) lower trailing arms, 2) Drag link behind front diff, 3) tierod in front of front diff, defer the front and rear panhards for now. This bloody car is a money sinkhole!

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good list mate. Drag Link is in front of front diff from Steering box to Left Hub and the Tie Rod is behind the front diff from hub to hub to keep the front wheels pointing the same way.. Any dramas dont hesitate mate.

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

OK, This bloody car is a money sinkhole!. . .

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Really ?, must have bought the wrong one mine hasn't cost me a cent [emoji23] . . .

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

This bloody car is a money sinkhole!

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Yeah Ghee mate! My GU has cost me next to nothing to own. especially the last 3 months. Been sooo good.

My GQ is a whole other League!! I have not driven that for 4 years so thats been good. Rego alone comes in at $2500......Dont tell the missus i spent $2000 on the winch....(This time) or the 24v setup, or the 3 new batteries, the XR Seats and adapters, the 37 Treps that have not been on the road yet (they have been great! The idea is that if you spend big coin on expensive tyres they will last you say 5 years and then they are cheap! I'm 4 Years in! They where nearly free! :drunk: ) . Imagine if i had to put Diesel in the bloody thing!!

Hey i got did i tell you i got 175RWKW out of the GU..... LMFAO . BHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. Might buy a Toyota cause apparently they never break and have enough power....

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

This bloody car is a money sinkhole!

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Hahahaha. Just wait until you start replacing the already replaced parts for even more improvement. Then going through it again chasing personal ideals

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Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy

Hahahaha. Just wait until you start replacing the already replaced parts for even more improvement. Then going through it again chasing personal ideals

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I think my requirements are a lot different to yours somehow! I have not bent or broken any of this gear and its been out and about since 1997. I am not saying it is absolutely required, however what I am hearing is more insurance before it happens or lessening the impact of an event. Right now its another $750 for stuff that isn't broken, hence the hesitation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

I think my requirements are a lot different to yours somehow! I have not bent or broken any of this gear and its been out and about since 1997. I am not saying it is absolutely required, however what I am hearing is more insurance before it happens or lessening the impact of an event. Right now its another $750 for stuff that isn't broken, hence the hesitation.

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Nah $750 pretty good for the insurance perspective. Thats cheaper than buying just 1 of my shocks

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

OK, so looking around I see there are upper and lower control arms and front and rear panhards. The control arms are offered in adjustable as are some of the lower. Also there are upper control arms with a bend to clear fuel tanks. i am assuming I don't need the bent upper adjustable units as the factory straight ones dont hit the fuel tank now? Is it complicating the setup by having the control arms adjustable or simply go for the +11mm units for the 2-3" lift range? Do I ned to change the upper control arms at all?

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The bend in the upper arms is for long range aux tanks as they kinda wrap around the rhs upper arm. So the arm is bent to clear the tank. Adjustable uppers are used to straighten, or re align the pinion angle so its in line with the tail shaft. The more the lift the more the diff needs to be twisted upwards to be in line with the tailshaft.
Longer lower arms are used to centre the wheel in the guard when the axle is under compression. As when you add a suspension lift you will alter the wheel to guard alignment. Sorry I dont know how to explain it better. Bene will be able to clear this upper better than anyone. I went +10mm in my lower arms for a 4inch lift and its spot on for my application.

Look at the pinion angle of your diff and if it runs in a straight line to your tail shaft, you dont require adjustable upper arms. If its not, then yeah technically you do.
I changed both uppers and lowers on my arms and the rubber bushes in both did not last 12 months. All now replaced with OEM bushes and plenty of never seize on the pins and all good.