Gammon & flinders ranges trip
Recently returned from a ten day trip to the Gammon and Flinders Ranges, to sum it up in one word - WOW.
Absolutely loved it and can't wait to go back again, last time I was up there was 30 years ago and tented at Wilpena Pound.
We did about 3,000km and averaged 14.33 L/100km, best was 12.44 and worst 18.95 - no towing but pretty well loaded up. At this point I have to say I love my automatic, 26psi and it went everywhere, didn't even use the rear locker and relied on the auto hubs.
Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary
Cut across from Leigh Creek to get there and the numbers of Emus and wild goats were staggering. Apparently there are 200,000 wild goats in the Flinders and Operation Bounceback is putting a concentrated effort into eradicating them. When leaving Arkaroola we were advised that if taking the Copley Rd to wind up the windows and run aircon on recirc as they had shot 14,000 in the week and with 35c temps they would be humming.
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We spent four nights at Arkaroola (we got a great deal and stayed in the Mawson Lodge), I've had various reports on the place but I believe it was worth it and would happily go back. It's their low season and they only had four lots in the caravan park and about the same number in the camp grounds, the motel had about the same number so we basically had the place to ourselves.
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Did all the self drive tours available and this involved lots of low range and some gnarly ascents and descents, the views were spectacular. It was very rare to see another car at all but the wildlife was abundant, especially the yellow footed rock wallaby which is making a big comeback. We didn't do any of the astronomy tours.
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Decided to send up big and do the ridge top tour ($155), in my case it was money well spent. When I booked it I wasn't aware that the Sillers Lookout part had been closed all year due to the condition of the track, it was unsafe for the open top trucks they use due to their high centre of gravity. Here's where I got lucky. Since there were only three starters the owners son Mark Sprigg took us in an 80 series Toyota, he asked if we wanted to have a crack at getting to the lookout? Well I was in the front passenger seat in a flash and we were off, Mark is only 23 but knew the track pretty well (naturally).
His commentary was brilliant and you could feel his passion for the place. He showed us where the bulldozer got to and died (sat there for over a month waiting for parts to get it out), once you passed that spot you can see why they closed the track. Low range auto, no lockers and the 80 series got to the top, what a view. A lamington and cup of tea to celebrate and we went on our merry way. As it was the only tour for the day he asked if we were in a hurry to get back on time, he got the right answer so he took us to a couple of significant spots that aren't on the usual tour. After about 4.5hrs into a 4hr tour I knew my wife would be getting a little anxious. Couldn't stop laughing when we arrived back after 5hrs to be greeted by the police, my wife had seen them drive in and thought the worst. She asked them if they were there because of an accident and they laughed and re-assured her all was good.
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Breakfast was included in our package and also two dinners so we utilised the camp kitchen for the other couple of nights. Next stop was Wilpena Pound and Willow Springs (via the Blinman Rd)
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To be continued.......
Wilpena Pound, Appealinna Ruins and Surrounds
After leaving Arkaroola we based ourselves at Wilpena Pound while we explored the area.
Wilpena Pound has certainly changed since my last visit 30 years ago, all the drives are closed and they concentrate on walking tracks (I like driving).
At Wilpena we attended a welcome to country by the Adnyamathanha people, informative and interesting. Scenery around Wilpena was pretty special (not to mention their visitor information centre). Since I'd seen so many Emus I thought I'd better try one for dinner that evening, smoked Emu bruschetta which didn't impress my wife.
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Stokes Hill Lookout is next to Willow Springs and well worth a look, amazing views of the district and Wilpena Pound.
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Arkaroo Rock was another point of interest.
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I was fascinated by the Appealinna Ruins, and spent quite a bit of time exploring them. It's hard to imagine the hardships the early settlers endured in their fruitless task of trying to establish themselves. The information and signage for visitors is a credit to the organisers, everything was explained.
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Rockwall to keep the stock out of the garden. Imagine what they would have given for a roll of ringlock!
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Note the stone shelves in the corners, there were several ruins and all had these.
Well that's about it for my trip report, absolutely loved it and the photos really don't do the place justice.
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As a thank-you to my wife for allowing me to indulge my folly we spent a day sightseeing in Hahndorf.
The end....