Paule mine came off with the gerni pressure washer and I used some eucalyptus oil to remove the sticky gunk from the duco, once removed I used soapy water to clean and presto done. No razerblades were hurt or used in this process.
Printable View
Paule mine came off with the gerni pressure washer and I used some eucalyptus oil to remove the sticky gunk from the duco, once removed I used soapy water to clean and presto done. No razerblades were hurt or used in this process.
Apparently fine fishing line works well as well, then your weapon of choice for removing any remaining glue residue
Got her covered in mud
Started on the second battery install
sold one and bought one today. 2005 st-s td42i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Mate I tried every thing to remove my decals of my last nissan. this went for weeks here and there, every chemical known to man. I stumbled on a really good steam iron, with a tea towel soaked in petrol covering the base. Using a piece of acrylic with a sharpened edge on it . My patrol had decals from the front to the back
full door job. took weeks to get thru the first quater panel. Once i worked it out took couple hours to do the entire car without breaking a sweat.
Those bloody decals. Mine used to have pin stripes alone the sides but there wasn't actually anything there to remove. The actual paint had taken the form of the pinstripe and no amount of rubbing with any chemical would remove it. Only thing that fixed it was sand paper and a respray.
This is the stuff I used. I had to take off the common rail sticker on both sides, of the car as for some reason they looked farked. I had one of them razor blade tools, and just began taking the sticker off in portions. Inch by inch. This wax and grease remover dries quickly , but it's effective if you soak the decal in it. So I'd spray a crapload, on one area, wait 10 seconds or so, and then it just comes off with the blade, then move onto the next bit, or repeat in same area or respray area if it dries. Yes I did dig into the paint, in a few tiny spots, but nothing major. It was an hour job for both stickers.Quote:
Originally Posted by sil3nt_dr3ams
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...d=288523#Cross
Changed the headlight globes on my Missus's VE Calais and my GU as we both had a globe out.
Her car piece of piss.
The GU was a nightmare, no room for hands.
Driver side was easier with a little more room but the passenger side was a b-itch.
I got scratches all over my wrist and hand.
No room between the back of the light and the air box.
I just removed the headlight assembly out by removing the fastening bolts, even that was annoyingly difficult.
By now you guys are probably pissing yourselves laughing but hey, that's the way I roll.
Everything the hard way.
Lesson learnt, take to someone else to fit globes. Lol
Took the cargo barrier out and refitted the dickie seat to take the family out for a drive. Fitted new bonnet stop bumpers. Pretty exciting stuff :-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sil3nt_dr3ams
Gawd! A hair dryer or heat gun and a can of CRC or WD40 is all you need to remove the leftover sticky chit. Lost count of how many stickers I have removed off car this way and it's piss easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Drove it through a river ( Sunday, so technically not today...)
River was fairly pumping in Dwellingup ( for those playing in WA ) at about bonnet deep.
River crossing cherry is popped!
Very surprised at how much difference the upgraded globes make.Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
I went with the Narva 120plus, which is supposed to be 120% brighter than standard and a 40 metre longer beam than standard.
$90 bucks from SCA for a pair of globes.
$40 bucks off flea bay.
They will be in a few months and then the old ones back in because the plus 120's would have blown. went through three in my wifes Crumpydore. Lucky I didn’t have to pay for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
and what sound is that for us over here in the east lolQuote:
Originally Posted by XT43
FYI if you ever use cable ties cut them flush with a box cutter,Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
or you'll rip your hands/arms to shreds if you just use side cutters or plyers
Make sure your globes aren't too hot as the housings are only plastic
@ Mudski does the filament get too hot and constant vibration breaks themQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Like the old 120watt globes for driving lights, no good
I've had narva +120s in for 2 years , not a problem , love em
Got a Narva 9500 lumen light bar as the IPF's were playing up. Mounted under top of the bar so I could get my hands in to attach the winch cradle. Have to wait till it's dark to give them a whirl.
Make sure you're the only one who can appreciate themQuote:
Originally Posted by macca
very nice BTW, which beam angle did you choose??
I knew I should have asked the questions first.
Typical me, buy first ask questions later.
Well that gives me a bit more confidence in themQuote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
I also changed out my K&N air filter and cleaned the old one and is drying now. Tomorrow I'll re-oil it.
Your right there John, 3 10mm head hex head bolts to undo and they are gone, will track down some stainless tamper proof when next in town.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
They are "driving" beam not floods.
A mates brother was kind enough to get me one at a red hot price so I took what I could get.
They are not stolen, just bought at wholesale through connections IYKWIM. Lucky me, happy days.
Yeah I have never had a drama either. The key word in mudski's phrase was commodore lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
The +120's don't increase wattage they use difference gasses to obtain more output. As with anything there are good ones and there are cheaper ones.
I have no idea John. They were Narva globes too. The car killed three of them so I put the old H4 globes back in and they haven't blown.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Fitted a new washer bottle and motors today. Also took the blanking plate out from next to the cig lighter so I can fit an extra acc outlet. Jeez I love how easy it is to work on this truck !
Learnt a trick off the other troll forum where a candle is used to lube up the contact points for the door seals to quieten rattly doors. Gave it a go and it works surprisingly well. Never realised how much the doors wobble about when driving. Put my fingers between the door frame and door at the top while driving so I could feel the door move against something stationary and there's heaps of movement. Is this normal?
I assume there would be movement mate between a flexing chassis and body to a bolted on door. What are your body mounts like?
Less than 5k old. Might need to fix the plastic on the striker plate again...
What's 5k old? The striker? Shouldn't make a difference Imo. There will still be movement in the doors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Appologies. I was answering your question about the body mounts, they were fitted about 5000km ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
How much movement are we talking?
The doors on my troll move when the body flexes. But not a lot tbh.
It's not massive movement,probably not even 1mm, it's just enough to make the seals make an annoying sound. The candle wax has made it better, but id prefer it if the door was solid. If everyone's troll does the same thing, then it's something I could live with.
The rubber stopper that sits on the door, is there supposed to be a gap once the door is closed?
Ahh so it's the sound of the rubber seal moving on the door frame.... like sitting on a leather couch.... not much to worry about I think.
I don't get any movement in my doors...( that I am aware of )..I have just done the rubber stoppers at the bottom of the doors..that is what did really stop movement...they were gone..you can use any stopper from any car...the ones I used were bigger in length than the normal ones...I just kept closing the door while I trimmed them down with a Stanley knife until it had a nice dull thud and closed firm with out force or slamming ....the front ones ( think) .should be closing against another rubber stopper on the body....I got mine from the doors of a Toyota at the wreckers..
new hinges also help...what are your hinges like ?
Hinges are probably in need of replacing. I'll have to see what my rubber stoppers are looking like.
Cheers guys.
My hinges are still good and when out wheelin' when I get on real uneven ground I hear the door rubbers rub. Never worried about it thought as their will be some movement...
fitted a K&N filter to the old TD42, she breaths much better now. Also finally got round to fitting up that meter strip of led's under me awning, it's only taken me 9 months to do that.
Started up the old clunker........ yep still starts, goes an stops, he's a good old boy and so much more get up and go than the TD42.......... not sure if I'm ever going to have the heart to sell it