My custom Stainless Steel water tank arrived, just need to find time to install and plumb it up. This will fit in behind the middle row seats and in front of the drawer system.
Attachment 72216
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My custom Stainless Steel water tank arrived, just need to find time to install and plumb it up. This will fit in behind the middle row seats and in front of the drawer system.
Attachment 72216
What capacity is the tank Steve? I have a ss tank fitted in the same position in my go wagon, 110l and its fitted with level indicator and outlets to both sides. One of the best additions I made.
It will be about 80 litres, I had it made a bit shorter (800mm) than the full width of the Patrol. so I could leave room for my distribution box and wiring etc in an easily accessible place for my rear mounted Lifepo4 battery. I also have 1/2" outlets on both sides, but will use a Topargee inline meter to let me know exactly how many litres I have left in it. 1/2" breather on top and 1-1/2" filler to make it easy if I need to fill from a container.
I had a 70 litre tank in my last vehicle and loved the ease of use. The last trip in the Patrol was a pain in the ass using Jerry's etc.
Currently in discussions with wayne at Topagee regards a fuel consumption system. This measures flow to and from engine, does the subtraction, and gives instantaneous and total fuel usage. Not 100% sure this is enough, would prefer an average plus instant, and then total, but would probably have to move towards a Scintex system for that at greater cost.
I think to get an extremely accurate fuel consumption meter, you will have no choice but to go down the Scintex path. Personally I think it's overkill and won't benefit you much. As you are no doubt aware you need to do your fuel calculations before you are on a trip and then carry the appropriate qty of fuel. The ability to measure your actual fuel usage on the fly really won't matter if you don't have the fuel with you to start with. Better to assume worst case scenario and carry enough fuel to cover this on some shorter similar style trips. You will soon work out what you need to carry to cover the longer trips in similar country and conditions.
Bought a 4" aluminum elbow to replace the mild steel one from airbox to turbo.
Noticing surface rust form on inside the pipes.
As much as I can't be bothered stripping the entire IC out for the tenth time I'm going to have to and replace all mild steel with alum!!!
Universal pipe kits are cheap these days even universal silicon kits. You could get all new pipe and silicon for under 250.
As in a hole in the front panel or remove that bracket that runs up to the latch in the middle ? . . . Going to try making up some custom thing that goes beteeen the intercooler & air con for mine when it comes to it . . If your deciding between top & front mount go the front 4 sure i reckon. .
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The system I am in discussions about is not advertised on their website. It's a highly precise system with totally different style of flowmeters and controllers. My concerns stem from a conversation with the guys in Bunbury who set up these pumps. They told me the consumption on this engine can be as high as 1 lpm!! Can you now see why I might be a little focused on accurate fuel use rates! This is at WOT but still is horrendous. I will see where this lands, but spending 1k in advance on accurate information is better in my mind on a number of fronts and does allow for better planning.
My 2015 V6 petrol Hilux can use over 99.9L/100km at WOT. Average consumption is around 10.
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ROFL
Esp in a ZD30... tic, tic, boom
or a 6.5... it would be one big humungus sluuuuuuuurp and then all the fuel she is gone :-)
Seriously tho my CRD used to hit more than 60 instantaneous quite easily at low speed and full welly.
I'm not sure I would want to know the number in my 6.5
The 1 LPM was for the 6.5 at WOT, but I am selecting a flowmeter with a range of 0.5 to 100lpm to cover the surge. If the flow exceeds the rated flow, it will choke the diesel feed to the engine by whatever the difference is. I can see this happening a bit especially in low range stuff. I tend to dawdle along at less than 2500rpm on the road most of the time. I have been getting pretty good economy, but its highly speculative to be honest as the type of driving changes a lot over a weekend trip, so I dont really know what I am burning thru accurately.
Got the Redarc low water sensor thingo today. Not a cheap item but cheaper than a cooked motor so its worth it.
Wide Open Throttle :)
Drive a 6.5 with a WOT and you will have either a WOW or a MOC and a NML warning
WOW - Wide open wallet
MOC - Maxed out card
NML- No money left
"Big V8's - doing our bit to help rid the world of Fossil Fuels"
I checked the performance specs on my 6.5 again recently and it is nothing if not consistent at WOT...
0 to 100 unladen - 9 seconds
0 to 100 towing my van - 9 seconds
0 to 100 down Greenmount Hill - 9 seconds
0 to 100 up Greenmount Hill - 9 seconds
Time to consume 1 litre of Diesel - 9 seconds
Time to consume 100 mL of engine oil - 9 seconds
Average time to deposit 1 Kg of soot - 9 seconds
Average time for pedestrians, cyclists, convertibles and Prados to get the $%#@ out of the way - 9/10ths of a second
I bought myself a Magnetic Mic holder.
Hahahaha, funny bugger.
This'd be your favourite Beatles track then ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWmvbxGpra4
I bought a new serpentine belt tensioner. Yay [emoji4]
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Seal kit and bearing for my power steering pump. Will do it over the weekend
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ARB front locker.
Nice new set of 285/75/16 hankook muddies and black rims 👌
a tough dog adjustable steering damper
Had a late night ebay splurge. :)
We hope to fall into a pattern of using the ‘choofa’ I made from a 9Kg gas bottle for cooking as the norm, rather than using gas - it allows for use of an ‘open’ fire in more places. The price to pay for this is the need to collect firewood to fit the choofa.
Over the past few years I’ve considered the best way to do this.
First I bought a medium size Fiskar axe after being impressed with Threedog’s one at Murray camping weekends. This is good when there is something available to use as a chopping block, but that is not always the case.
Then I thought a cordless reciprocating saw would be a good idea & bought one, but whilst it will do the job I find it a cumbersome & not particularly pleasant tool to use for the task, particularly when the firewood being cut is not still attached to a larger more solid piece of tree. (Good for garden pruning though).
So then I bought an eBay cheapie 10” petrol chainsaw. It is very effective even if it does feel cheap & nasty compared to my larger Stihl. It’s plastic construction isn’t designed to last but it’s good enough for for camp firewood use.... have to carry a container of petrol & the saw leaks chain & bar oil when stored, but worst if kept inside the pod it contaminates the entire inside of the pod with the stink of petrol. Opening a pod door after it’s sat in there for a day the fumes are really strong & I don’t really have anywhere else suitable to carry it so have become reluctant to take it with us.
I had previously discounted cordless chainsaws as too expensive. All my cordless tools are Makita, & I was unwilling to shell out for any tool requiring the purchase of different batteries & charger to what I already have, (I have several 4Ah Makita batteries) particularly as I also want to carry my cordless drill or impact driver. Taking different types of batteries, plus two chargers wasn’t an option. Makita cordless chainsaws are generally priced at $400 upward.
In the early hours of this morning I came across a Melbourne seller selling Makita cordless chainsaws on eBay - they are American imports, almost the same as the model sold here, but with a different USA model number. Only difference is it has a 12” bar instead of a 10” one. Still double what I paid for the petrol cheapie, but at $299 cheap compared to buying an Australian model ....... so “Bugger it” I thought, “why not add yet another item to my collection of firewood gathering white elephants :D” & clicked the ‘Buy it now’ button.
I suspect (& hope) a cordless chainsaw is really what I should have bought in the first place ......... but at least I now have choice! Ha ha.
Attachment 72287
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-Ch...72.m2749.l2649
For folk not already ‘wedded’ to a cordless battery system, I reckon the pick of available cordless chainsaws would be the Stihl 12” model, availablefor $460 plus battery .... not sure of battery cost but I’d guess a total of close to $700.
I’m also under no illusion that a battery operated chainsaw is going to have the power of an equivalent sized petrol version but from what I read they are certainly up to the task of keeping the camp fire fed.
All I have is a fold up hand saw but I don't have to be as precise with the size of my firewood for cooking, just leave it hanging out the back of the plate.
Believe me I considered a hand saw, I already have a couple of bow saws, & I looked at a few folding types. If it were for short holidays or weekends away no probs, but for full time daily use - I get enough of that sort of exercise grinding my coffee each day! :) We do also have a hotplate with legs which would require less cutting wood to length, but we need to take either that or the choofer, not both, & the choofer allows for a fire in more places.