Thanks for taking a peek for me Plassy.
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Be aware that most Makita tools have a 3 year warranty, but it will increase to 5 years when you register them via the Makita portal. I've been caught out by this with a drill, I didn't register the tool so it was out of warranty when I took it I to be repaired.
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Hey Cuppa, I'm a Makita man. I have a couple of 1/2" rattles. To be honest this one gets All the use these days. Does the job great. Not sure it will crack a wheel nut but everything else is a winner. I crack by hand then zip off and zip on the torque to spec by hand anyway.
DTW285. Don't know how it compares to what your looking at but it gets it done fine.
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That will do wheel nuts no problems Daz ! From memory wheel nuts should be aroun 100-130nm.
If not throw it in the bin and get a Milwaukee…lol
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What’s everyone’s thoughts on this relatively new release found from Milwaukee for their 18v 12.0Ah battery recommended range that we have already have quite a few yard batteries to suit:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/10/93.jpg
Claims it’ll do up to 135psi and weighs under 15kg which would be worksafe handy for one man carrying around the bone yard for truck tyres and the like instead of mud wheeling/dragging diesel powered compressors through winter sludge [emoji90]
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I just don’t fully understand the elecy 70% “Duty Cycle” techy stuff listed, would that mean it overheats after pumping up a first/second/tenth tyre?
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The duty cycle is normally stated over a 10 minute period. So at 60% it would run for 6 minutes and need to rest for 4 minutes. It could even switch into a thermal/overload protection during this period. It will be in milwaukees product information. It doesn't have a lot of flow so could take a while on the larger stuff. If you compare it to the arb twin compressor the little milwaukee is 4 times slower.
Thanks Mat Mate, Appreciated!
Thinking I’ll wait until the technology gets better then.
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Stolen from FB. A good read....
TOOLS EXPLAINED
DRILL PRESS : A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL : Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t'
DROP SAW : A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS : Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER : An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW : One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH : Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..
TABLE SAW : A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW : A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST : A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER : Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER : A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR : A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER : A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER : Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE : Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted buckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity.
Son of a bitch TOOL : Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a b*tch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
Ye olde faithful 381 is Stihl my personal ‘go-to’ all rounder lucky early morning charm [emoji1696][emoji51][emoji3590]
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