Can you show the correct tensioner position?
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Can you show the correct tensioner position?
Ralph, did you get any documentation from Bullet when you purchased your kit from them? There is a note in the 9 page installation doc - point 15, see attached. If you want the entire document PM me an email address and i will scan it for you and send. When the location peg is aligned with the new hole, 20mm ACW from existing, the tensioner pulleyAttachment 81181 will sit at the 4 o'clock position when the belt is installed. Mine is sitting there now. smack on 4 o'clock. There were two M8 bolts snapped, both on the passenger side and logically they were the lowest and next lowest bolts in the group of 4. I replaced all 4 mount bolts - they are a plated cap screw 12.9 grade, plus also upgraded the static bearing bolt, M10 x 60mm from 8.8 to 12.9 also. All back together and belt running dead centre of the pulleys, took it for a spin and all good. Has taken a bit of rattle noise away as well, boost back up at 13 -14psi Attachment 81182Attachment 81183
So, 4 hrs to get 2 M8 bolts out, grade 12.9, cap screws, could not drill them, no room to even centre pop a start for the drill bit. Ended up stuffing around with the dremel and cut a slot across the shaft and then screw driver to undo them - bloody mission, but all back together now, belt sitting where it should and holding dead centre, replaced the m8 mount bolts and the m10 static roller bolt just to be sure, plate was not bent. Boost back up at 14psi and motor sounds strong and less rattles, no doubt the plate had a lot to do with it. New belt as well.
I'll check to see whether that was done on my engine, when the guys assembled it.
Yes, they are miles stronger than the standard 'HD range'. And to be honest not a lot more cost than the standard Gates from what I can tell. I have unfortunately collected a number of this size belt along the journey to get the belt alignment sorted, and munched a few as well.
Diesel Particulate Filter installed, chassis plates overhead welds done, front spring tower vertical welds don, New ARB Intensity lightbar installed, 'might' have found the the coolant leak - 'could' be the small breather hole on the tank i am currently using for the temp monitoring - have plumbed it using an air fitting to ground so I should be able to rule out any hoses or fittings. Drove the beast around all day and no issues, looking promising at this point. If I ignore the cruise control, I am done and dusted apart from the outstanding instruments still in transit, so HOOOOORRRAAAAY!!!!
Whatever it is called, its in the exhaust pipe, as close to the engine as possible, has to be at least a 100 cell/inch 2 unit, the VASS engineer made me go to 200 as the law will be 200 within 12 months, so may as well be ready for it. Its a Catalytic converter, but for diesel. This is what is installed.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-INCH-2...72.m2749.l2649
Its not my call, its the VASS engineer and the regulations. When I did the original engine conversion from 2.8TD to 6.5 N/A, the vehicle age at 1997 manufacture was before the old threshold of 2003? and so there were no emission requirements. the rules have now changed and any engine conversion must now be fitted with a 100cell particulate filter. This is going to be further tightened next year to 200 cell units, so whatever they want they can have. I am putting the vehicle back thru engineering to get the s/c added to the paperwork, and then registration papers and insurance.
Ahh makes sense now. Thanks.
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Calibrated air and water temp sensors and gauges arrived yesterday. Fitted the water units today, what a difference compared to the junk off ebay. Supply water temp is 1 deg at idle on the supply water and 2deg on the discharge line of the w2a heat exchanger at idle. Granted its a cool day and the water is yet to get any heat load from driving, but a fair way off the 25 degc indicated with a generic sensor. Waiting for an adapter fitting to go down from 3/8NPT to 1/4NPT and also have ordered a 3/8npt tap in case the probe length does not sit where it needs to with the air sensors. Doing a quick crunch of the numbers I am shedding 33degC across the w2a at idle. If i can maintain something like this across the rev range i will be happy - will see.
Also mounted the CelFi unit in a waterproof box so a bit more comfortable with that set-up. mounted the oil cooler guard, manufactured from SS perf sheet with 10mm holes to provide a bit of protection from hands getting in contact with the hot tubes.
Mounted the display, wired the two air temp probes for the s/c supply air temp and then air temp into the engine, just waiting for the adapters to arrive, hope tomorrow. have repurposed the original twin head sensor unit for use as under bonnet temp checks - want to move them around over time to see if I can detect any dead pockets of hot air that need moving. I have a couple of bilge pump fans that can be made to start swirling the air around a bit if needed.
Ordered 3/8NPT tap, got supplied 1/8NPT tap - bugger me. Anyway, simple mistake, but a further delay to sign this project off. So close now.
All done, probes mounted, and connected up, so fun time and data collection can commence. What a mission this ended up being. Anyone thinking of doing the same journey, have a lobotomy first, then go back the next week and get the rest of your brain excised as it will be turned to mush by the time you are finished.
OK, headed off on the maiden s/c run for 3 days up the high country. Good news all round, no smoke testing or flames anywhere, nothing failed apart from a temp gauge/sender playing funny buggers. Interchiller system worked well, in all honestly not as spectacular as some of the vid's on youtube, but the results are pleasing. Put 700klm on it as a starter, so decent first run. The prize is lower egt's, so i guess i have succedded but time will tell if the outlay and difficulty has been worth it - unsure just at this moment.
I am knocking about 60degC out of the inlet air temp to the engine (post s/c at 14psi) as a minimum, at times close to 80degC. EGT's are sitting around 200 Deg C most or the time(even on both banks/probes), have to push really crazy to get 400degC. Boost is running at 14psi with peaks to 17psi when i stomp it. Rad temps are running around the 84degC- 90Deg C and 17Deg c drop across the coil, so that vindicates the bloody expensive ally radiator and high volume water pump. The aux 2200cfm 12V fan works well and drops temps down when crawling along by around 5 degC. Gearbox and transfer case running at 60 degC in all conditions, cruising or in the bush. Cabin a/c temps frosty cold and when I run the bypass a/c circuit to direct 100% cooling to the engine the water temps and inlet air temps fall by about 7 deg, and i can still run the heater in the cabin I found without detriment despite Fi Interchiller claiming otherwise.
Fuel consumption at 100klm/hr is 22l/hr, (22l/100kilometer). At 110km/hr it pushes up to 28, at 120 up to 35! The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm. so I am still in front and heaps more enjoyment to drive. In the bush its averaging around 10 - 11 based on the numbers i was observing. Super responsive, like driving a petrol V8 auto when cruising, just touch the accel pedal and it takes off, on the flat or uphill, downshifting not required - big improvement on the n/a version.
I love the s/c torque much smoother than a turbo. Do you get a nice whine out of it?
Yes the whine and the burble of the exhaust are delicious. The torque, smooth - instant yes, savage yes, smooth not a word I would have chosen, but it is 'there' instantly, but in reality its maybe a second or so in front of a turbo, so not that much difference i reckon. For that second of lead, its a lot more pain and expense, but i love it anyway.
Bought a 12v power steering pump assy with reservoir today. Going to mount it in front pass side - somehow. reason being, after the first ps failure the vehicle is damn near undrivable without the hyd booster, so if it were to crap out up the high country it would be a very dicey trip to get it out. i also have a Proflow vac pump i bought and need to mount that up as well. Young Dan's lockdown will help me again!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-T...72.m2749.l2649
Also been looking at the wiring under the dash and will do some more adjustments and swap out the fuse blocks to the LED indicating fuse blocks for easier identification of a blown circuit. Currently have a number of circuits 'doubled up' on the same fuse, which is not good practice, but time and money can resolve this.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-Way-B...72.m2749.l2649
Decided to go to the next level with the under dash wiring and dedicate one circuit per fuse - yes I know, thats the way it should be but wasn't, so bought 4 of the 12 slot fuse blocks with LED blown fuse indication, and mount them on a 4mm alum plate. Stripped out the cables and have started to bundle them , more by length than anything and grouping, pos?neg - deep cycle battery supply, and pos/neg ignition supply, then length will determine which block they end up on. All cables are n umbered so I know where they belong to. With luck will get back into this tomorrow.Attachment 81443Attachment 81444
Bloody hell mate. I seriously wish you all the best.
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Thanks, the clarity I had yesterday with this has evaporated today with the back and shoulder pain of twisting under the dash for 7 hrs yesterday - cant motivate myself back under there for another full today just yet! Anyway, the first step cut was done to tidy things up and get back on the road. This next step is to basically resolve the mess and provide easier identification of a failed circuit. Since its now just refinements and i am still not working, time is free to do stuff like this as long as wifey baby remains distracted with her stuff!
Not entirely sure as was sort of sucking in a lot of info at the one time. I think at 100kph I am doing around the 1900-1950rpm, 110kph sits around 2000 - 2050maybe, not sure on 120kph. When i am next out I will take some better numbers. These are probably worst case in some regards as the sample time is so short. Also, I have a large frontal area with the roofrack that does not help. Yes 33's and 3,9 with man box.
Time consuming day today. Managed to get the 4 fuse blocks mounted in the vehicle and run the pos/neg cables for the deep cycle side of things. Tomorrow is the ign source cables - this is going to be a struggle as there are more cables and I think quite a few will require extending. Also have 3 cables that I somehow didn't label and one joined with a crimp connection came apart and I can't locate the other end - always happens. 7 hrs is about the limit for me screwed up like a wet towel, so will see how it lands tomorrow, but it looks a hell of a lot better.
Rewire complete - 3 wires to chase down but they should show up pretty easily when something doesn't work. Only issue was the actual fit of the blade fuses, couple were out of alignment and took a bit of joggling to fit the fuse. They were cheap in all honesty, however could not find a Blue Seas quality fuse block with 12 slotsAttachment 81489 with the LEDs. Still pretty busy though.
What a champion That is one can of worms dealt with.
Thanks ralph, I will take a closer look next time. My speedo is out as the conversion was done with 32" tyres, and by the GPS 1 am 5klm/hr out. I am a bit doubtful about the speed as the rolling dia is a bit pressure dependent anyway.
Went chasing the home for the 3 extra wires, started by seeing what wasn't working - bugger me there are 5 things not working and 3 wires - just as well we are in lockdown or this would be a real drag
Just.....Bloody Hell mate!! Proud of your efforts there. I have lived that dream on a smaller scale and that is a great effort. I hate those OCD Auto Elecs that make it look like Art. FFS there is so much going on you have to pack it in. You should be very pleased with that effort mate. My GQ Centre Console is awesome but behind the scenes looks messy but it works, its safe and its fused. Stuff the Haters. Great effort mate.
Still Scary as Faarrrkkk. But i remember the first time i saw your rig OMFG! you burned a hole in my brain. This is a huge move forward mate. Well done.
and on the bright side..... If it does catch fire at least your feet will be warm..... :p
I want to see the fuse box cover with the sticker on it that says which fuse does what??
i use an Ap on my phone for lists, this would be a great spot to keep a fuse list like that! that is Epic mate.