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taken my lokka out, as it was put in without shimming etc. ( Can't say on here who put it in ) causing DRAMAS? Front auto hubs ( changed to manual ) and transfer case bearing needed replacing, $ 1500. Have been told " unsure if the lokka was the main source of the problem" Finally sorted!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Front or back diff mate? My understanding is no shimming required on the frontQuote:
Originally Posted by cossack
i like the way they say "if u can change ya brake pads u can fit a lokka" little bit more involved than pad change, good writeup but very useful
Its just a hell of a lot messier than changing pads :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by gu radelaide
i have one sittin here 4 a GQ never got round to fittin it , will it fit a GU
Yes i believe they are exactly the same a quick call to 4wd systems would confirm though i am 99.9% sure theyre the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by gu radelaide
Thanks for this usefull read.
I see alot of work on cars at home that we enthusiast could do the work faster and easyer.
Get your self a press, around $300 you say to much well they do come cheaper , but could be to small. and lets face it, youre saving a heap doing it yourself anyway.
And if your like me and more than 1 car and the work can be done at home hopefull when it suits you're own timeframe.
I recon my investment has paid for it self. and more to do still I bet.
Swivel hubs and wheelbearing , charged $100 an hr for mechanic, or just to save youself alot of time and effort or running around to get em pressed on/off.
you get the idea.
TIP, keep old parts removed as they become usefull dies/adapters, cleand modified etc.
Anyway, thanks again
New year's resolution - get a lock :)
I have a Lock Right 3210-LR sitting on by desk as I type, $399 delivered from AU seller. Considereed the Lokka, but no stock. (Why doesn't 4WD Systems have a web store???)
So I've got a bit of a job ahead of me :) While the front end is apart I'll fit new pads A1RM from here http://www.qfmperformance.com/ (rears too) and will bleed system through with Super DOT4. Not happy with the brakes as they are.
Thanks for this write-up, and Tony's front end write-up, I'm happy to have a go at the job.
Its a pretty easy thing to fit, the hardest part is remembering how the axles, bearings and swivel hubs go back together :-)
So, I'm a happy little vegemite, as they say :)
Stripped down the front end, and removed the diff. Someone mentioned it was heavy - it is......
Put it on the bench, pulled it apart, and installed the Lock Right pieces. Put it all back together and then put it back into the car. This time I'm sure it was heavier :)
I finally managed to lift it into place using my mini Hitch Master hoist that I'd bought at a show eons ago, thinking "that will come in handy one day" - it did. There's a convenient bracket with hole on the chassis rail right above the diff, and there's a bolt that holds the brake fitting onto the diff at the top. Then there was just enough space to hoist the diff up and install it.
On disassembling the front end I noticed that the caster correction bushes were beginning to chew out again, dammit, so I decided to get drop boxes. These went in and the standard Nissan radius bushes went back in. I've only got 3" lift, and the drop boxes give 4" arm drop, so I've gained an extra degree of caster over factory setting. This is noticeable, giving me more rtc and slightly heavier feel. Bump absorption is now vastly better. Sway bar won't go back on, so I'm running without it at the moment, doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I'm now chomping at the bit to test the locked front. Australia day weekend in the High Country is where it will get its first tryout.
Thanks again to the OP for the instructions.