If that's the case then the braided hose should help with that. It never had any problems before though.
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If that's the case then the braided hose should help with that. It never had any problems before though.
When you release your clutch pedal, there should be some freeplay between the pedal pushrod and the master cylinder piston - about 20-40 thou.
The piston on the master cylinder needs to return fully to allow any excess fluid in the line to return to the master cylinder reservoir. A tiny port opens as it's uncovered by the piston seal in the full release position.
If the port is blocked by a wrong size seal or piston, insufficient pushrod freeplay, someone putting a spacer/o-ring behind the circlip or there has been a stainless sleeve fitted that blocks the port - then the pedal will build up with pressure, especially if there is vibration on the master cylinder piston that "micro pumps" fluid without the port to return it to the reservoir.
I haven't stripped the Patrol Clutch MC yet - this info is just from other vehicles worked on over the years. The "circus pipe" ( what else can you call that rediculous bleeder ?) that spirals around the firewall like a mad woman's breakfast, introduces a whole new level of "what if? "
An easy way to check fluid is returning to the reservoir through the port is to run a hose from the LHF brake caliper bleeder to the clutch slave bleeder. Open both bleeders, depress the brake, and see if the fluid level in the clutch reservoir rises
If you're unsure about the vacuum booster causing problems, remove the vac supply and plug it (but keep the brake booster connected) and go for a drive. The clutch will be heavy but not impossible. (don't think this is your problem though)
I have used a syringe to pump fluid up from the bottom and the level in the reservoir rose as it should.
Yeah I don't think the vacuum booster is the problem either.
The new hose I bought deletes the spirally mad woman top bleeder, so that will eliminate that.
I think your issue may be the hose. I can only be this. As you would think if it were out of adjustment it would do it all the time correct? I suppose time will tell when the new hose goes on.
Would the cap be enough to hold pressure in the line as it heated up it applies pressure?
It's a hard.
Your saying it get worse even though your using the clutch it's still building pressure..
Hi Winnie
I may be way off here as I've never done a Patrol clutch myself...
Does the thrust bearing (release bearing) have free movement on its shaft? Shaft slightly bent? If sticking at any point(s) I imagine this would make adjustment difficult and also cause slow return of pedal/changing resistance point as u mentioned previously in this thread. Bearing movement on shaft may also be affected by temp too if tolerance too tight? Maybe cause of noise too?
Seems that you've tried all things fluid, so thought it may be mech/friction instead...
Good luck!!!
I didnt do the clutch myself and I'm not sure but am hoping that it was checked by the mechanic when he did it.
I don't see how that would change the friction point though?
Yeah. I'm not entirely sure of that myself. My (entirely uncaffeinated and inexperienced) thinking was - if the bearing was catching at differing points on the shaft then it may not apply pressure back through the yoke to the slave, thereby changing volume of fluid in the line (with further uses of clutch) and resultant resistance point.
Looking at cross-section in Haynes, the bearing travel appears to go over the shaft's splines, so maybe small tag of metal or gunk build up in here?
Maybe I need my coffee...
As expected, the new clutch hose didn't change a thing. I am truly out of ideas and to be honest I am about at my wits end with the whole saga. I will let my mechanic know on Monday that it is still fucked and he can look at it again.
Fark mate no one seems to be having a win atm..Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie