What did you do to your Patrol today!

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Look, all good points. I think there is more than adequate engaged length to handle the torque to the front wheel, but saying that its not how it was designed to begin with and I dont know how much 'over design factor of safety' is in the original design either. I am running a similar setup to yours, maybe 3" on the front, castor correction bushes and 33". Running chains for me is a potential issue on both front and back when it gets a bit hairy. I also have noticed the job the mud flaps actually do in keeping the mud and stones off the ARB side rails and step - not much door clearance to step and a bit of paint crunching does no one any good. I will see how this pans out and worse thing that happens is I break something and come home in rear wheel drive, and then have to get a custom jobbie.

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Would be interesting to know your uni to uni centers (shaft length) as compared against similar stock build set up. Your current lengths may actually be near original build state. Maybe someone with unmodified coils (close to stock build spec) could measure their uni to uni center length and we could determine the change.

It is not so much the torque having an adverse impact, possible concern is the side loading on bearings due to the unsupported increased length, thinking mainly any out of balance in shaft. Maybe over thinking it.

Recently modified my old chains to fit the 31.5"(for GU), that I use to run on my 76 FJ45 SWB and of course guard clearance was never concern. Out with the highlift jack, up all corners (one at a time) hook on and on your way. So good. Now with the 33's not a chance, comes so close full lock..Very disappointing.

The failure will be from the spline interface length if anything. The engagement length will take into account the clearances and how much the shaft joint is actually 'whipping' at the joint itself. I would not worry about it to be honest as the drive angle has flattened out a little bit to compensate for any centreline issue I think. The torque comes into it as the spline length is less and therefor there is less area on the spline to absorb or transfer the torque. In an extreme example, the spline would begin to deform and then get sloppy. Thanks for the heads up re the chains - I will trial fit a set before actually having to use them - will perhaps be the determining factor in if the flaps get refitted or not.

Yeah the main issue here, "is there enough clearance between tyre and body work to meet individual user requirements". Will consider the radius arm spacer mod and maybe cut the mud flap bracket (inside corner) away to provide greater clearance at full steering lock (I carry a hacksaw). Other works on the go just now.

Yes, the reduced bearing area on spline face would subject the spline to greater shear loading forces from the torque produced and even more resulting from the rapid deceleration forces that can be experienced from variable driving conditions. Agree, the risk of failure to spline and pinion bearings is low. So many engine builds/variations are coupled up with these drive trains and the design safety factor would be high say 5-7 (certainly not 2), recon the uni joints would let us know if something was not quite right.

PeeBee.

The only time I was rubbing against the mudflap was when I had 35s and that was only on full lock, with 2" lift and 2 degree castor. Now with 33s it's not problem at all.



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Originally Posted by jay see

PeeBee.

The only time I was rubbing against the mudflap was when I had 35s and that was only on full lock, with 2" lift and 2 degree castor. Now with 33s it's not problem at all.



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I think mine are a bit mangled! Do you think the rim offset affects things also?

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

I think mine are a bit mangled! Do you think the rim offset affects things also?

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Probably not much TBH, GU arches are hugely bigger than GQ ones, mines had a fair "massage" and spacers and is good now. .

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Probably not much TBH, GU arches are hugely bigger than GQ ones, mines had a fair "massage" and spacers and is good now. .

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There you go PeeBee you just need to "massage" it a but more..

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Well my GUIV arches are just not big enough then. 2" lift, use 2 deg caster correction M/T 33x12.5R17 on Dynamic17X8/+10 offset. Rubs flaps heaps on 1/2 to full lock (rear of whl passing in under arch cavity). Easy to fix leave mud flaps off. Never used em on other vehicles, will just get ripped off any way.

I gave up riding my push bike with cardboard spoke clangers yrs ago...was sooo much fun

For a while now I've had shitty floating floorboards underlay as my rear compartment sun barrier... Yes you read right... Floating floor boards underlay silver side out.
It began shitting me always re-taping it back to the window , albeit it actually doing it's intended job.
I saw these static cling windows things in Autobarn catalogue. And they were on special so thought why not give them a go...
https://www.autobarn.com.au/streetwi...00x450mm-black

C*** of a job @ 38C ambient, but the very cold beverages kept up the momentum and motivation. Happy with the outcome . Time will tell, how they go or how long they last.

Before:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=77200&stc=1

After:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=77201&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=77202&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=77203&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=77204&stc=1

Hodge looks good mate. How do think it would stand up against dogs nosing and pawing at it. Durability and does it cling on well?