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Nah Philbus we’ve been full on - we’re deemed an ‘essential service’ so kept working - after the last 6mths I ain’t complaining . Our biggest threat is the greenies stopping us . Anyway as for this ‘self isolation’ - I’ve been doing that for nearly 25 yrs so I’m all over it haha
Hoses and fittings arrived for the air compressor installation under the middle row seats, so finished that off, happy with the result Installed so rubber stone guards around some cables under the front wheel arch. Have a squeaking sound coming from somewhere around the powersteering pump, found it has running a lowish fluid level, topped it up but made no difference. Sound goes away after say 5 minutes of idle, looking but cannot identify the source.
Now just waiting for the w2a big pump - its arrived in NSW, so with luck will have it early next week. Then the tank can be made and fitted up.
Give it a crack!!!
#nekminit #justsendit
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/05/95.jpg
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Speechless! Wonder what the rest of the motor looks like, and guessing a little bit more boost than I am running!!!
New EMP WP32 pump arrived today, finally at 5pm, so that's a win for tomorrow. The 10L tank is fabricated and I just need to cut and weld the inlet and outlets into it. I think by the time I make the pump mount bracket and mount that off the tank, run the cables to relay and isolator etc, 2 days will be done and dusted.
Added a touch sensitive light to the rear cargo barrier timber board so interior is well lit up. Still have that damn ticking sound on start up - cant find the source, will drive me spare until I know what it is and fix it though! Will post photos later tonight.Attachment 81034Attachment 81035
Another good day in the garage. Finished off the tank, mounted the pump and painted the tank ready for a coat of epoxy bitumen then thermal insulation. Ordered some custom a/c fittings as the clearance off the firewall is very tight. With luck will have them by Monday. Replacement Couplertec unit arrived and fitted that up also.
Attachment 81048Attachment 81049
Bit of stuffing around, waiting on the custom a/c fittings.Attachment 81054Attachment 81055Attachment 81056
Triple insulated the pump and motor assy, trying to get the tank to dry in Melb's 13 degC day is a challenge
You missed your calling Phil! you have a Knack for Painting for sure mate!!
Darren, we are all good at some stuff and not so good at others!!! House painting is fine, handling this 2 pack bitumen paint is another thing all together. Its too cold to be applying it to be honest, plus, normal heat activation to accelerate the hardener does not work - it makes the mix more plastic, so I ended up setting up the fan with coldish air all day - and it still looks like crap,. Anyway, tomorrow I do the plumbers thing and cover it under a couple of layers of insulation, so the scar will be hidden - but thanks for highlighting my failings!- mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Here you go Darren, all hidden and looking beautifooooolAttachment 81059Attachment 81060Attachment 81061Attachment 81062
Filled the reservoir and test ran the pump on a closed loop back into the tank, bit of grunt there, soft starter as well. shot a 3/4" stream 8m onto the roadway, but of course not a real world test but impressive.
I think we need to run bets at $10 each to guess the weight of this beast when it’s done. The closest to the mark gets the kitty.
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OK, I don't exactly know how much it weighs, but its been over the scales at 3320 and 3940kg. The 3320kg was for the engineering brake test/GVM upgrade and the 3940 was in semi battle ready config. Fuel tanks would have been full, water tank full, fridge full of grog in order to get actual front and rear axle loads for the spring selection, and 1 was not in the vehicle at time of weighing. Vehicle did not have the s/c or interchiller assy either. The vehicle would not have had the camping gear or full recovery gear or travel tools I carry.
I would expect a starting weight around 4150kg without me in it, loaded for a weekend away - that's my opening bid - No Driver, but loaded for a weekend trip up the Vic High Country. @mudski, maybe set this up as a new page?
Just thinking about this, this morning Phil and I probably couldn't could create a betting thread, for legality reasons...
Live dangerously. 4151kg :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
You sure? He's probably remove 100kg in wiring. :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Mark, Phil has done so much work on it, I bet he's fitted a Brock polariser voodoo unit and an anti gravity device he's already forgotten about. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I reckon we call it the Tardis!!
Attachment 81073
Its a GQ on the Outside......
Attachment 81074
Thank You Men for your kind thoughts. Tardis not avail for number plate, just checked
Bhahahaha love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
TRDISS
TARDES
TRDIS
TAADIS
Yeah, well $495 for a pair of plates that will see the light of day 6 times a year is a bit 'off the menu' right now. I think the TAADIS is the winner though.
OK, almost there, just have to put a/c refrigerant into it and its done. Hooked up the tank, pump and power, hoses double insulated, pump flows at 41LPM, draws 19.8amps and pressure in system somewhere around 18 -20psi - unsure as the needle wrapped around on a 15psi gauge - seem to be making a habit of this! Onto ebay to get a 30psi gauge now. So will book it in this week and let you know the results. Unfortunately the temp gauges to match the probes for before and after the intercooler -water temps -have not arrived, however do have sensors in the inlet airstream to the s/c and in the manifold post the w2A unit pre the engine , so that will give the best indication I think of effect.
OK, the results are in, but not completely accurate.
The system was gassed up today and took the vehicle for a 100klm spin down the freeway and back home. Ambient temps were cool - 13 degC.
Pre interchiller installation cruising EGT at 100kmhr in 5th were 300 degC on the knocker. They are now 200degC even on both exhaust headers.
Pre interchiller installation, 'stick the boot in in 5th accelerating to well above the speed limit', circa 500degC, post temps no higher than 320degC
I have an issue with the inlet and post s/c/intercooler air temp readings as they are both reading around 60 degC higher than where they should be - inlet air reading 72degc on a 13 deg day for example - spoke with the supplier just now and he is baffled. The 4 sensor units I have are unfortunately 3 old series and 1 later, so set up is different. I will do some swapping around to check the probe accuracy then go from there - just a bit more effort! Initially he thought this probe may have been set in degF, but its not as all devices measure the same resting temp after a night in the garage.
Boost at 100kmhr is 14psi - holds flat, wont go over that, happy with the response and performance, so another win.
Cabin a/c remains icy cold with the normal running mode, and with it in the stage 2/race track mode, with no cooling to the cabin, ie all cooling going to the engine w2a unit, could not detect any cooling performance increase, however I think the sensors are incorrectly calibrated - will be chasing that down next week with some industrial instrumentation guys I know.
Was running the cabin with the heater on as well, however this is a no no according to FI Interchiller, so will redo the runs without the heater on and see what result I get. The a/c can cycle on and off due to the heat sensor in the cabin - my error, but wasn't aware of this.
Anyway, truck runs really well, and having the grunt at 100kmhr is great, sort of like you are driving on the cusp of a power bank to some degree. Happy days, remains a work in progress - intrigue.
OK, been thinking about this issue of the air temp readings and doing some research. I believe the probe used in the airstream is incorrectly configured for air, its a probe configured for liquid - very different type of measurement head and technology required. I am going to swap out the air sensors into the water sensor pick-up points as still waiting for the gauges to arrive - I am sure this will give me the right temperature readings. I have ordered two HVAC style temperature probes and a matched digital display from the UK that is configured specifically for air. I also will move the incoming air probe position closer towards the air filter box. It is currently 250mm away from the inlet to the s/c. Reading the guff from Kenne Bell in the US, the IAT should be measured close to the air filter for the most accurate comparison.
Picked up some further info tonight that I have been chasing without luck previously. The temp rise across a twin screw blower is approx. 10 degF per PSI boost. The terminal temperature of the air leaving the blower is further boosted by the ambient temp (plus any heat soak effect from under bonnet temps), so if I convert to DegC, at 14psi boost, today, I would have had an ambient temp of 12degC plus a 60DegC temp rise thru the blower, hence the air temp leaving the blower would have been circa 72DegC. This temp hits the w2a intercooler core. The info I am missing is the actual chilled water temp, pre and aft the w2a unit, which I will get by swapping out the probes as mentioned tomorrow. From there I should be able to calculate the expected temp drop across the coil, however the new UK temp probes will be the final determinant as they are calibrated and guaranteed accurate within 0.5degC.
The journey continues. All good stuff I reckon. I think it is time to crank the water injection system up as well and see what the total cooling effect is - not going the full water/methanol route at this time, just water.
Here is the link to the dual probes and gauge
https://www.mainline-sensors.co.uk/c...sensor-1-8-npt
OK, bit of an update and pics. I swapped out the temp probes and basically as advised earlier, they were way off. I used a calibrated instrument this time and the numbers are closer to where they should be. In broad term, with the interchiller doing the cooling , my inlet air temps are approx. 40 deg less than if I was not running it, ie if no intercooler was in play at all. The unknown value is what tangible benefit does the interchiller have on lowering the inlet air temp beyond what a w2a unit would achieve, and what effect does this have on EGT's. Todays results as follows.
Ambient temp was 18 degC. Coolant temp was around 9 - 10 degC. Inlet air temp into the engine post the s/c was 30deg C at 10psi boost. Without the w2a/Interchiller in play, in theory the inlet temp to the engine would have been around 71DegC, according to the literature I have read. From here I will be installing better devices and monitoring what is happening. I have already gained a 100degC drop in EGT's at 100klm/hr so its looking good.
Attachment 81151Attachment 81152Attachment 81153Attachment 81154
I still have a coolant leak, so this is going to bug me until fixed, and its buried somewhere down low and hidden it seems. I also may have a supercharger to manifold leak as there is a little bit of wind coming out between/around one of the inlet legs - bugger.
@poindexter, if you are looking to upgrade the 'duty rating' of the 6 rib belt, have a look at the fleetguard belts. They are a lot stiffer, but do make a bit of noise for the first 5 minutes or so until they warm up - sort of like the old cross ply tyres and flat spots over night. I found these, even on the 8 ribs, don't stretch like the standard duty Gates belts.
Holy Mother of God!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Attachment 81157
Love your work Phil.... That is Epic mate.. Can Not Wait to see this thing in the flesh mate.
Thanks Darren, down to the last three bee stings I reckon, W2A water leak, what I think might be a manifold leak between the s/c and inlet manifold and the cruise control. Its still got a pile of 'noises' I need to get used to, then after understanding how to drive it, pay less attention to the instrumentation and just enjoy it.
Bit of a crap day today. I bought an inspection camera to see if I could find that coolant leak but no luck so far. I then decided to re-torque the inlet manifold to the block as the 'wind' was getting loader plus I was losing boost - hit 10psi then starts to drop and there is a god almighty whistle going on. So retorqued the bolts, started it up and the breeze is still there, plus a horrendous squeal from the front of the engine and the 8V belt was starting to track off the idler. I looked at the assy and 'nothing had changed', so when I took the load off the belt to flick it back across, I noticed the idle pulley flexing by about 2-3 degrees from the belt tension. I have been running the green fleetguard belt, so thought I would first swap out the auto tensioner as maybe it had failed and was over tensioning the belt. Swapped it over for a spare I bought from brunswick diesel, and of course it has not ben internally modified to give a great throw,. so that had to be swapped back to the original. Then I thought I would swap out the belt for a new standard duty belt which has a bit more give - this turned into a saga as night was upon me and my patience was ebbing. Anyway, got the belt on, just, but the sub assy is still flexing.
From here I will have a look if anything has actually come loose on the brackets, but right now the belt tension appears through the roof, and have not driven it to ascertain what the falling/limited boost issue is.
Something has happened to change the tension, you need to find that out first.
I used to design FEADs for a living when I worked for GMPowertrain, and it is not normal for the tension to go up, if anything it should have gone down, Has the internal spring been over tensioned for any reason, maybe check that it is sitting in the right location.
There is a torque measurement to check on the tensioner to see if it is within spec.
Thanks Ralph, yes, what has changed, precisely. There are two drilled holes for clocking the tensioner into position, and I was not aware/didn't have my glasses on - whatever, and put the tensioner into the wrong hole. This increased the belt tension, however it took a while for the actual belt to stretch and then work its way off the idler to some degree. I installed a different belt and it was a difficult job to install it. Anyway, I spoke with BD today and was made aware of the second hole, so undid the tensioner and dropped it into the correct position. The issue now however is the tension is too low to drive the vacuum pump! The pump only has about 45deg of contact. So, BD are making up a larger diameter idler to bring the tensioner up in force - with luck that will work without changing belt sizes.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
The static idler under the s/c snout is still too weak from my perspective for longevity. I have asked BD to increase the size of the bearing and the support stub axle - it appears the one fitted has too small a footprint on the mount plate, plus the mount plate has a design weakness that is difficult to overcome, made by Bullet. This slippage I believe also corresponds with the drop in boost pressure, however still have this bit of airflow coming out dead and centre from the valley area - its ambient temperature - maybe its some sort of random airflow from the radiatior fan flow?
In summation, looks like operator error to some degree, which I can accept as long as there is a reason and not stupidity. Once this is resolved, I am basically done. I have the truck booked into performance exhaust to get the diesel particulate canister installed between flanges, and final weld out of the chassis stiffener overhead welds. I will also get them to comment on an exhaust dia upgrade to 4" mandrel and see what they can do with the exhaust manifold re headers, then will start looking around to see who I am going to approach for final engineering on the s/c installation - have you selected a VASS engineer to work with? the guy in hallam has disappeared completely it seems.
OK, sounds like you may be onto the issue.
The tension is too low to drive the vac pump? really? doesn't sound right to me, check that the belt length is correct. What nominal length are you using?
I wish you luck getting a 4" exhaust through, is performance exhaust the mob in Lilydale?
Spoken to Enkelman & associates, and they are ok with the conversion. Front axle weight will be the main issue according to them. Present the truck with no or minimal accessories mounted to the front they advise.
I will be using them for my project.
The belt length has not changed, its 8pk3020. The tension is related to the belt path/length for sure. Its marginal from a length perspective. ie tension and marginal from an angle of wrap perspective, remembering the drive is on the back surface of the belt and its a shiny steel pulley and minimal contact. I sourced the next size down belt from Gates, however it was too short - however may fit now with the tensioner being in the correct position.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
I don't intend going through engineering with the 4" exhaust. Performance exhaust are in Scoresby/Rowville. Good luck with those guys, they backflipped twice on me, wasted a LOT of time with them, won't go back to them. I think the BD legacy was a lot to do with it to be honest.
What are your front and rear axle limits? I put mine over a weighbridge in Hallam to get them. The GQ is 1500 for the front and 1800 for the rear. I didn't exceed these numbers even with both winches/bulbar/batteries, however the guts of the vehicle was largely stripped out and empty fuel tanks etc.
Seems that the belt length might be a problem as I'm assuming the standard size increments might not work in our favor. Either too long or too short.
I'm not running a vac pump, and intend to run a shorter belt, however if unsuitable, might have a dummy pulley there.
Regarding Enkelman, was recommended to me by the mechanic, and seems ok over the phone, buy then so does Archie.
All this FEAD talk is making me nervous about the S/C, but you are the pioneer and hopefully sort out the issues smartly.
I have bought a 12V vac pump also, and if I cant get this sorted promptly, I will be going down a similar route to you. The pump for me was a back-up device as the truck is a TOTAL pig to stop without the vac assist, plus the clutch is vac assisted also and it becomes a doughy feel and changing gears feels 'on the edge of gear crunch at times'. The stuff that I am wading through simply should not be happening. All this is supposed to be from 'mature kits' but seems there is always a variable. Anyway, next hurdle is to resolve the idler mount plate rigidity and then the alignment and belt tension issues. Keep you posted.
I'm running a hydroboost for the brakes which is why I don't need vac.
My moment of truth will come with the 6L90, which was never fitted behind the 6.5.
It beat Marks 4WD as they couldn't get the torque convertor to play nice, and has since dropped their conversion for 79 series.
However, when I talked to Marks, they were such pricks about divulging info about the conversion, I withheld what I knew from GM Powertrain.
Mind you Quadstar in the USA were no better, so a big FY to them all if I get this to work.
Luv it Ralph, keep pushing where you have the belief.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
OK, looks like I have found the issue at the root of my belt alignment hassles. There is a mount plate supplied with the kit and this has 4 bolts anchoring the static idler to the block. One of the bolt has snapped under tensionAttachment 81173 - so the plate assy can move up and down, putting uneven load onto the belt and pushing it out of alignment. What a piss off as i now have to disassemble a few parts and drill out the broken bolt. I will be replacing these soft as cheese cake crap screws with unbrakos for sure. Looks like the actual mount plate is bent as well due to the load, so thats another part to buy. Anyway, tomorrow is the drill out day and using my new right angle drill and set of screw extractors, I trust it will get done. Wish it was as easy to find as the image shows - its actually buried/shadowed under another plate, so everything needs to come off to get to it.