Haha cheers jff and the rest ... Parts,gauges,pillar pod ordered.
Tapatalked from S6
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Haha cheers jff and the rest ... Parts,gauges,pillar pod ordered.
Tapatalked from S6
Hi Eric I noticed a few posts back you used an ockie strap to secure a drum of oil.
Please throw it an any others in the rubbish and use ratchet straps, ockie straps are an
accident waiting to happen, especially if you have yong children around, just saying lol
I'd agree with you here. Ratchet straps are good and safe. I only use occys to hold the tarp down over my camper.
wait till a mate loses an eye and you'll change your mind,Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I never use them and havent for over 20 years.
I agree on the straps. I only use them inside on the cargo barrier. Very convenient.
Fitted up the rear work / flood / reverse light from LED Light Co.
Wired up with a switching relay to work when reverse kicks in OR with a flick of a switch it'll work simply be a work light .
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63162&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63163&stc=1
Have you got a dual battery set up? If so, how did you wire it? I'm guessing when it's activated by the reverse gear it will be powered by your main battery, but when it's switched on as a work light you would want it to be powered by the aux batt?
It is powered from the aux. battery , regardless whether I switch it on manually , or it is triggered by reverse gear.
Tapatalked from S6
Here is how it's wired up.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63176&stc=1
I'd like to do a cooling overhaul over the coming ages, as I cannot tell by records when the last time coolant was touched on this thing.
Things like full drain and flush, new thermostat, fresh coolant, maybe even a new radiator ?? Just brainstorming at the moment.
I spoke to a 4x4 shop today I will not name, but they were very hesitant to take on the job due to some bolt on the thermostat housing that goes a long way down into the block ?? Thats backfired on them a few times ?? Supposedly it commonly snaps off and front of the engine has to come off to get fixed ?
Was this bloke onto something or just pulling my leg ??
Cooling is detrimental to the 4.2 hence it's not a job I'd like to throw my amateur approach at. However it's made me even more cautious after what he told me.
Thoughts ?
Dont go back to that shop then.
Yes there is a long bolt in the thermostat housing and yes there have been cases where this bolt has snapped. If it does break then remove it. Its not as big a job as they have made out.
Cheers mate. It's not a shop I've been to before, frankly i didnt know it was there, just happened to do some work in front of it and saw all these patrols up front and decided to ask while I was there. As I said he pretty much refused to touch the housing, no matter what $ was involved. THat was the end of that. lol
Last time I serviced my cooling system I found the hardest part was getting the correct hoses. The td42ti runs a different set of hoses to previous models and there are quite a few of them. It cost me close to 600 for all the hoses as at the time I could only get genuine. If you do decide to change the hoses then make sure you get them all.
As for the radiator if there is nothing wrong with it then just get clean it externally or if your worried give to a shop for an internal.
These setups with the header tank are very easy to bleed as well.
Have you ever thought about painting
1 the top of the rear doors and
2 the top of the side doors matt black
that would truly make it yours
just saying
I think Cuppa had all the pt numbers for all the belts and hosesQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Thank you sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I will replace the whole lot with genuine items. Nothing wrong with the radiator as in the car is not overheating or anything. I will know better what it's doing after the weekend when the proper numerical gauge goes in.
I just figured while I'm at it I'd replace the unit with a fresh one. But will see what it's like. The fact my car was a surface rust bomb when i got it and was used to dunk and pickup boats in sea water makes me even more concerned at what the long bolt will be doing.
Tapatalked from S6
First all chrome stuff then I'll go from there. That's on the back burner now as there is higher priorities on the car right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Tapatalked from S6
Eric before you fit your scoop can you trace the out line with bolt holes onto a piece of paper for me please.
got an idea, if possible
Will do mate but my scoop is a while off...
Tapatalked from S6
Im sure I can laser cut some aluminium and have a vane
about 76-100mm inside the scoop to get air to the front.
Wonder if Mark has done his yet ??
This is something I thought about doing when I mounted my IC but I concluded that the hottest charge air was entering at the rear of my IC anyway and any deflector would only reduce the amount of air getting to the rear.
Heat moves pretty quickly in aluminium so I don't really know if trying to guide the airflow is worth it.
Most of the time, the higher road speed will be at less boost
I wonder why all the R&D on the A.R.E scoops then??
For what its worth... My exCRD patrol was from country SA, Coober Pedy. The intercooler developed that red Sandy color on the front half of it, the rear half was very clean. Going by this I assumed that , it utilized only the front half of it , so the air charging was not spread across the whole of IC surface.... It shot down as soon as it enters the scoop...
Vanes would somehow help this ???
My little theory only.
Tapatalked from S6
Was it ex SA police??
Was it for a particular IC design?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I'm toying with the idea of fitting a temp gauge to the IC outlet to see if there really is any need to do something.
At the moment my IC fan cuts out after a couple hundred metres and it's near the IC outlet.
Edit: meant to say the temp sensor for the fan is near the IC outlet
It just those larger scoops that fit the OE tigged IC
I believe it was a police bus to truck cops between Adelaide and North SA towns, judging by the log books left behind ...Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Tapatalked from S6
Mate of mine brought a V8 troopy from them they even put new rear doors on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
was only used like yours just shuffling officers north and south
I am struggling to find right adapters for my water sensor and EGT probe. Went to Enzed and 2 other hyd. shops and they couldn't help me out.
My water temp hole is M12 x 1.5 and the sensor is 1/4 NPT.
EGT bung is 1/4 BSP and the probe is 1/8th NPT.
The bloke at Enzed found what he calls close enough for the water one The water one is a makeshift adapter consisting of 2 adapters, but the female is not NPT it is something else, but he reckons with a bit of thread tape it should work.... But also what he gave me, as you can see in one photo has a tiny hole through the adapter, which I am not sure, will be good enough for sensor to pickup the right coolant temperature through ????
Edit: The brass adapter in the photo is unrelated to anything here lol.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63185&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63186&stc=1
Hodge I will have a look tomorrow for you mate and get some part numbers for you if I can.
You can easily drill those fittings out as far as you can if you like.
I have a full set of taps if you need to tap a new thread
Didnt Cuppa have the same problem with his EGT probe
ARE did all their r&d on the factory cooler and their factory replacement core which really isnt that mucj bigger but much more efficient.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Easiest way to test this is the old wool trick. If you have a fan just hard wire and see how the air is behaving.
Cheers mate, that would be excellent! The water temp. one is my priority. EGT, worse comes to worst, can re-weld a bung to suit on.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Egt one is easy. You will just need a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer. 1/8npt and bspt are close enough that it will work or you could run a 1/8 npt tap down it. Even a 1/4 bspt plug that you drill and tap yourself to 1/8npt.
Why is the water temp 1/4? Mine is 1/8. Have they changed the size? You got the Redarc gauges yeah? As for the bung. I have 1/4 and 1/8bsp bungs. If you get a BSP tap you can just retap it. NPT wont go into BSP, but BSP will go into NPT. Bugger. If your stuck go around to JPC and see Mark. He'll have something there for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
And I got 1/4 to 1/8 reducers too mate. Both in NPT and BSP...
Thanks Mark. I have the g52-bet model redarc. The temperature is an optional sensor that comes in 1/8 or 1/4 and i selected 1/4 . Otherwise both identical sensors.
Tapatalked from S6
Can you return the 1/4 temp sender and get the smaller one. Will be much easier to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
They were other of stock of the other one, so I got the 1/8 instead thinking it wouldn't be so bad...Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
You got the 1/8 sender or 1/4 mate? You go to Ashdown yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
This was off eBay, but yeah I usually go there I forgot to check whether they had any of this to be honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
When you say I've got the 1/4 or 1/8 sender, you mean the sensor ???