Lemon or not

Ok got the ruff idle and missing at speed sorted, turned out to be 2 bqad sets of plugs and a earth wire. runs smooth as now, but have been doing the trick where you put a piece of paper against the exhaust pipe and if it gets suckd in at allit meand a burnt or buggered exhqaust valve, I know I need to replace my exhaust and gasket as when a mate held his had over it yesterday you can hear it hissing around the exhaiust manifold, is there much credability to the piece of paper test? when I hold my hand over the exhaust I can feel presure trying to blow my hand away but cant feel it sucking.. so I'm hopeing I have fixed my engine problems, unless someone can varify the paper test means means a valve is shot. now just need to sort my car shaking at 90K's and I'll have a good truck.. unless my valves are shot and i got to replace the head!!!!

Plugs and an earth wire.......
That's a damn lot better than an engine swap!!
Good to hear it's sorted:-)

Tap, crackle, pop

Great stuff.. there ya goes. Pays just to fiddle sometimes..


Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Glad you got rid of the miss without breaking the bank.

Out of my depth here, talking about electronlc ignition.
Does the Petronix system use the standard rotor?
If so, the modification to extend the end of the rotor to decrease the gap between it and the
terminals in the distributor cap gives a much better spark.
You can buy them on E-bay or do it yourself.

Type( extended rotor button) into the search bar.
Quite a few threads on it.

Cheers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GUtsy ute

Glad you got rid of the miss without breaking the bank.

Out of my depth here, talking about electronlc ignition.
Does the Petronix system use the standard rotor?
If so, the modification to extend the end of the rotor to decrease the gap between it and the
terminals in the distributor cap gives a much better spark.
You can buy them on E-bay or do it yourself.

Type( extended rotor button) into the search bar.
Quite a few threads on it.

Cheers.

---

Yep the pertronix uses the same rotor. You're probably better off keeping the original rotor instead of going for the extended. I fitted a pertronix 2 ignitor and found I had the extended rotor. I'm thinking of swapping back to the original rotor. The idea is that if you have the standard points and coil it helps to extend the rotor so that the spark jumps across easier but with aftermarket ignition and a better coil there is a whole lot more available power and you get a bigger spark when it jumps the standard gap between rotor and dissy cap

Tap, crackle, pop

I knew I was out of my depth!!LOL

The tyre power guy said he did all that.. going to a mates placew tomorrow and trying a completely different set of rims and tyres, it that solves or improves things, I'll know my tyres or wheels are out of round.. Today when driving on a perfectly flat bit of freeway it felt like i was on a coragated dirt road,, my Mate is also going to have a look to see if anything else stands out like a sore thumb, I'm so glad I met "scaredgq " Andrew on a forum, he's a top block and knows his stuff when it comes to gq's, I'm still in awe as to what he has done to his and its only running on gas, would make most V8's be imbarrased...

if you do a google for exhaust sucking air you will find plenty of the yanks etc testing for burnt valves using paper or a dollar bill, from motor bike engines though to 4-6 and higher cylinder engines..

This is what me and Andrew got up to on thursday arvo
"Hi matti- we spent about three hrs dickin around with electrics/timing,didnt swap plugs because mine are the 6's for gas.I would describe the issue as more of a hesitation at idle when warm and didnt miss under load when we drove it.has champion plugs atm and they were a tan colour.It did smell rich at idle.I am now thinking maybe a carby issue as today it is reportedly playing up worse-timing at about 12 deg,reved nicely from idle yesterday.Next thing we will do is leak test-will put about 100 psi air into each cylinder at tdc-valves closed and see if it has air coming from exhaust/carby or internally,will also check for bubbles in coolant.I dont think it is a valve issue but the head coming off or motor swap will be last on list.Motor and car seem in immaculate condition,looks like a well maintained vehicle,newish looking radiator,dosent look like its been offroad.I know this means nothing at all but makes me think its a small issue.Tappets are going to be reset warm at .40,plugs changed.have access to a carby on a running motor that runs perfect which will try after leak test.Another thought is manifold leaks but i think trying the leak test should point us in right direction.What is your views /opinion on this after yr experience with yr head change etc."

Even though I back to fuel usage of 15-19l/100 K's with all the dramas I'm having with this auto a mate is trying to source a gq with a manual in it and do a swap with mine, as he desperatly wants my gq for its body, I know to a degree its a down grade considering what this thing has cost me so far, but I want smething reliable and that isnt going to constantly stress me out, should I keep what I got as my mate says I'd be hard up to find another with a body like mine, or should I cut my losses and do a swap...

Don't let any of your dodgy 'mates' near it.......