All Things Chev

There are differing vac pumps for those alternators. There are ones available that are the same length as the one you have. I can still get 125a alternators so maybe its just patrolaparts supplier.

As for higher current alternators you could look at a 24v item which could produce 200A. Hook your batteries up in series so the alternator can supply the charge to the batteries. Then only come off one of the batteries so the rest of the car can run off 12v. There is a little more to this sort of setup but it opens up a lot more options for alternator output options.

Thankyou gents for your input, truly awesome and seriously appreciated:-)!! Darren @MudRunnerTD had kindly also mentioned 24V systems some years back when this adventure started and I didn't quite absorb his knowledge given then but making more sense now for sure. Cheers to all, learning is gooda for me :-)

Hi Mark,

I had a read back trying to figure out if the dual Alternator was a Chev thing or not? trying to figure your need. It appears your just looking for it for supporting the winch is that right? as the Chev Alternator is supplying enough for your engine?

This is a No Brainer, especially as you have a tray back. I would be 24v-ing the hell out of that! You have plenty of room to store 2 batteries under the rear tray for your 24v setup, your committed to a second alternator so 24v all the way. Your fridge will take 24v as will your LED Light bars if you want it.

Your Winch will just love it. its a whole other level. I can't agree with Winnie about battery life though to be honest, a good 24v system will last as long as any 12v system and there should be Zero detriment to the storage batteries in this scenario. Im not aware of any Race cars that are swapping out their batteries after a couple of events unless they have cooked them or the Rich guys at the pointy end just because new is good. Buy a pair of New batteries for your 24v system though and make sure they are the same. make sure you fit an isolation switch with at least 600 continuous Amp rating and you should mount that in the cab within reach of the driver. I have a mate that runs cheapish Bond batteries under his tray running 24v and has competed in 2 Outback and 4 Cliffhangers at least. Plus heaps of club stuff in between.

Note also your Winch Motor Ishka is not like a normal 12v motor and has the capacity to take ALOT of power unlike the Warn motors. They have a completely different winding system and are designed for a static industrial application. Given this they don't tend to burn out the windings like a 6hp Warn. Tough. The Ishka motor was an accident. a guy a few years ago had a Pallet of them sitting around and he couldn't move them. He noticed that they had the same spline as the Warn 6hp so listed them for $130 each on a Comp page with no promises "Good for spares. Guys bought 3 or 4 each. I was strapped and did not buy any damn it!! Well bugger me if they are not Bloody Awesome and are rated far better than a Warn and hold their own in the Comp Trucks. Unfortunately when the Dump supply was gone the restock was way more expensive but still cheaper than Warn. Will be my next motor for sure.

Only advice i can give for running 24v through your 12v motors is Avoid Reverse Winching (Winch Out) as this will kill the motors quickly, especially the Warn. You have an Air Freespool for that reason so happy days.

24v ALL DAY

Click on the link below and scroll down to the BlueSea 3001 HD Isolation Switch.


http://www.12volt.com.au/General%20H....html#hdseries

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Click on the link below and scroll down to the BlueSea 3001 HD Isolation Switch.


http://www.12volt.com.au/General%20H....html#hdseries

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Darren, I had a Blue Seas isolation switch and it sequentially failed at the studs to wiper face ( meaning the 2 out of 3 cable studs physically cracked and broke the circuit, so no charge path). It didn't do a heap of high current work, maybe an abnormal outcome or fatigue - unsure ? When I do this again I am probably going the path of fuse blocks, rated for the max current supply - what are your thoughts on this for high amp isolation devices?

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Darren, I had a Blue Seas isolation switch and it sequentially failed at the studs to wiper face ( meaning the 2 out of 3 cable studs physically cracked and broke the circuit, so no charge path). It didn't do a heap of high current work, maybe an abnormal outcome or fatigue - unsure ? When I do this again I am probably going the path of fuse blocks, rated for the max current supply - what are your thoughts on this for high amp isolation devices?

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interesting, did you contact Bluesea for warranty? That switch is a minimum requirement for all Competitors vehicles in all forms of winch truck racing in Australia. Must be full rated Isolation within reach of the Driver and Passenger. Most guys run that switch. thats how i found it. This is the switch i have to go into my GQ. it looks like good kit, i can only assume yours suffered fatigue but id be contacting Bluesea for sure!

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

interesting, did you contact Bluesea for warranty? That switch is a minimum requirement for all Competitors vehicles in all forms of winch truck racing in Australia. Must be full rated Isolation within reach of the Driver and Passenger. Most guys run that switch. thats how i found it. This is the switch i have to go into my GQ. it looks like good kit, i can only assume yours suffered fatigue but id be contacting Bluesea for sure!

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Switch would have been there for at least 10 yrs so am sure its not a warranty item. I might make a call anyway and see what they could offer or perhaps put the finger on the reason for failure.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Hi Mark, I had a read back trying to figure out if the dual Alternator was a Chev thing or not? trying to figure your need. It appears your just looking for it for supporting the winch is that right? as the Chev Alternator is supplying enough for your engine?

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Thanks Darren, great info mate and appreciate the link too, Cheers! The Mitsubishi Pajero alternator used on the 6.5NA conversion barely ran the entire car since I installed the twin thermo setup and have always found it drop below 13.2V which disconnected the Redarc link to my aux fridge battery. I've worked this alternator so hard its now nearly dead so just bought the 170a GQ Ebay one to install this weekend to keep rolling. I'll start researching 24V aux alternators as my plan was to always install a 3rd&4th set of Optimas behind the rear Superior tower brace for running my rear winch too. I do like the idea of lights, fridge, gadgets running on 24V too, could open up some shopping at the truck stores :-)

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Originally Posted by MB

Thanks Darren, great info mate and appreciate the link too, Cheers! The Mitsubishi Pajero alternator used on the 6.5NA conversion barely ran the entire car since I installed the twin thermo setup and have always found it drop below 13.2V which disconnected the Redarc link to my aux fridge battery. I've worked this alternator so hard its now nearly dead so just bought the 170a GQ Ebay one to install this weekend to keep rolling. I'll start researching 24V aux alternators as my plan was to always install a 3rd&4th set of Optimas behind the rear Superior tower brace for running my rear winch too. I do like the idea of lights, fridge, gadgets running on 24V too, could open up some shopping at the truck stores :-)

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Your Spal Fans will likely run on 24v too mate.

They're actually Davies Craig's 12Vers unfortunately Daz, when I had all the dramas years back the SPAL's were the ones I was going to change over to but the boys at Davies Craig came to the party and sorted it all out very well with good replacements FOC :-)