Also @Winnie.
How did you get the unpainted lines on the top hat? Thought I might try an make it look good. Lol
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Also @Winnie.
How did you get the unpainted lines on the top hat? Thought I might try an make it look good. Lol
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I painted it all and used sandpaper to take the top bit of paint off. It worked really well!
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I've pulled a few winches apart to overhaul in my time but never seen the inners of the high mount animal...
Nice job
We're all ere coz we ain't all there.
Nice one. That plastic is a transit jig I reckon mate. Remove and discard.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yeah I was thinking that last night whilst trying to sleep in bed. I almost got out of bed at 2am just to remove it and see. Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
So what I want to do is mount the solenoid to the end of the motor. Maybe. There is already way too much happening in the engine bay so I dont really want to be adding to the confusion. The GP long motor bolts are too long for this job as the Iskra is a short motor compared to others. Upon closer inspection it just looks like they've used thread rod and put some sort of heat shrink over the middle section. I have two of said GP bolts in my possession.
I may either A, get the tap and die set out and cut a thread further down the GP bolt, or buy some threaded rod and make my own. I'll be looking closer to this over the weekend.
Soon, then I will be removing the bar and pulling the grinder and welder out.
It’s looking great Mark, well done!
I believe Darren is correct and the Iskra/Mahle plastic end cover is for packing/transit only.
Just an idea but I mounted my Albright behind the grill, slightly off centre towards the drivers side up under the top body frame. IIRC there were already some 6mm or 8mm OEM holes facing forward to easily work with a flat made adapter plate for bolting the Albright safely behind. (I’ll try to remember to get some photos after work if you like)?
In regards your bar work, see if you can space the whole winch 10mm or so backwards with some vertical say 20mm x 10mm plates each side.
My Millweld has this as standard built in and it does surprisingly achieve a great deal of extra space for your rope.
Remember to not overload your spools/drums with too much rope length, for me the greatest advantage I believe of our High Mounts is the ability to haul for much longer off angle without binding up the line on one side like Low Mounts unfortunately suffer quite quickly which is devastating to rope burning/abrasion on the back of the bar.
Delta-Tek air free spools have a thinner diameter drum core if you’re looking for increased rope length than standard and their +76mm wider drum model can in theory fit IIRC about 50LM+ of 10mm although I only run about 35LM of 11mm for stress free, plenty of spool space left heavy ute hauls.
It can get bloody dangerous up there in our hills having to stop and restart winching multiple times due to rope binding offset and of course good quality trusted rope is very expensive and may find you pay off a Delta-Tek in only a few short gnarly adventures.
I do carry a spare roll of Whittams 12mm x 45LM (circa $300) in case of a serious straight double line pull if needed and the Delta-Tek drum has a super convenient angle rod on the drum centre/corner that takes only minutes to change over a fresh new safer line.
Stay safe mates!
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My scribble scale below is incorrect between Low versus High Mount larger outer drum diameters compared but hopefully this gives you an idea mate of the 10mm plates for spacing the High Mount backwards just that extra helpful amount too.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/51.jpg
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@MB, funny enough, the spacer mod is what I did to my hydraulic low mount and the same for the braces, however instead of being welded to the casing they are bolted. Improves the safety around rope build up for sure. I spaced mine out 20mm from memory, however my winch body is no where near as deep as the HM.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I totally agree. I only have about 30m of 12mm rope on my +76 Deltatek drum. Plenty of room for more but unnecessary. I carry a second 30m length of rope as a winch extension. Worst case it is a spare rope...Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Note also that your winch is rated for pull at the drum. Add 6 layers of rope and you dramatically decrease pull and speed. Less is more.
Comp guys want heaps of rope for speed. 24v himount and no time for winch extension or double line pull setups. Go hard full noise. We have plenty of time so run less rope and use extensions for the win.
On my GU I also mounted the solenoid behind the grill off the radiator support panel.
@MB he had Mal Leslie modify the drum and reduce the centre from 75mm to 65mm. Not heaps but maybe 1 layer. I'm surprised Mal didn't go to 50mm. Mal also welded the back bracing on and a Bearing in the end plate like I put on ABsQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
There is a bit of confusion there. These are likely to be a series wound motor just like every other winch motor, as cranes, hoist, winches etc are the primary use of a series wound motor. The iskra is probably a continuous duty motor? Maybe more poles for more torque?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
There are basically 3 types of basic DC motor. Series wound, shunt wound and Compound wound (series and shunt)
Thanks Bene, good to see you about mate, hope your well. How is your TD looking mate? Have you got a plan bud?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
So I really need to get my arse into gear and get this done and fitted. I went out yesterday to get a load of firewood and wanted to winch a great bit of timber up the hill a bit. Winch was dead as a door nail. Last use was winching the lumbered massive pine at my place with Rossco. It was playing up then but won’t work now.
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I'm getting by. I have a plan of getting a GU and put my speed parts on it and have soley a touring type setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I would like to do the snow trip if I find a decent rig in time. But there are so many over priced pieces of crap for sale
Righto. Oil time. Been reading over the webs and seeing different answers. 30w oil is recommended. Which I assume is engine oul. Can’t say I’ve seen a straight 30 gear oil. But I’ve read others just using your regular 80/90gear oil and similar types. 6 Fluid ounces is Warns recommendation. Stick with this?
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Lawnmower engine oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Originally found some outboard gear oil close to what's recommended but since have just used normal gear oil which sure will be fine. Bout 180-200ml should do. .
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Righto. Which is the 30w engine oil I have. Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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She’s nearly finished!
Attachment 80910
Attachment 80911
I have the Iskra Mahle motor mounted on shortened Gigglepin motor mounting bolts.
I then made up my own mounting bracket for the solenoid.
My last issue. I seem to have misplaced the bolts for the freespool delete thingo...
Attachment 80912
Other than that, and wiring the solenoid to the motor. It’s ready. Yeah baby!
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Holy moly Markie looks smick as too good to use lol . Sticker on top is upside down but. .
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Yeah I know but thats where the hole was drilled in the hat, so I just flipped the sticker to suit. Gotta find these bloody screws too. I think I will also change the top hat bolts to stainless steel and also the mounting bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Where do I go to get the leads made for the motor to solenoid? Auto elec? I don't have the tools to make these.
Industrial Sparkies are essentially busy these days I hear Mark mate but maybe after hours solo shed time casholly and Australia Post delivery might slow one we know down ;-)
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Yeah I will get this fitted up first then worry about wiring it in. Plus I want to wire in dash switches too. And I have a remote kit aswell I'd like to wire in, if I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Yeah an industrial sparkie or some auto elecs will be able to do it pretty quick, just finding one with the time at the moment will be your real struggle.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I did see somewhere for sale some premade copper bars rather than cable which would be awesome.
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Sounds great mate, watch them remote kits though, nearly crushed ourselves with a chinese version on a work logging trailer a while ago. Went straight afterwards to the Warn remote (horribly priced) but had zero scary lag like the other death trap design!!
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Be careful putting stainless anywhere load is required. Off the shelf stuff does not have the same rating as a grade 8 tensile bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Do you guys have cooldrive near by?? These guys can sell you pre-made lengths of your requested cable or make them to your custom length. Other mobs similar to them should also be able to supply.
Mark, I have one of those hydraulic crimp set-ups you are welcome to borrow if you go down the path or making your own leads. Handles a wide range of cable sizes. Slow and steady, bit of shrink tube and happy days.
Good point about the Stainless. Also, put a bit of never-seize of equivalent on the thread, not Loctite. SS is tough but more plastic and will readily deform and bind up in even dissimilar metal combo's. Just bought some M30 threaded bar for work - high tensile grade of 316SS - $1500/m M30 - poison but application specific.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yep. Got a quote not long ago for some rated stainless socket head cap screws for an underwater pump. They were m20x60 and were just over $80 each.
Thanks Phil I may take you up on that offer. Not sure how to use them but I’m sure I’ll learn.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Almost time to remove the bar and get the grinder out.
I’ve been toying with the idea of cutting the loops off the ARB bar and just having the steel bumper section. I kinda like the look of that but I do realise the usefulness and added protection the loops give.
Thoughts?
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Mark, I am probably going to be over at MB's and AB's work early next week to drop some goodies off, so happy to drop it with them - suspect its a bit closer Xmas Hill than Knox? Let me know by Monday and its done. Its really simple to use, you cant stuff it up and cant break anything - just my type of tool!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
If you don't mind that would be great. Thank you....Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
OK, Monday or Tuesday I am thinkingQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I reckon keep the loops but that's just me . .Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Yeah kinda undecided. I saw a GU same as mine with a cut up bar and it looked really good. Just not sure though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Must say, some of our Arctic snow truck members nudge bars look awesome too!
Fortunately for them though there’s not too many roos over there or track edge saplings hindering their open plains driving.
Had only a custom built heavy C channel nudge bar on an old FJ55 years ago with my first stocky 2.5hp HM top half sitting proud up and unprotected. Looked great but really forced me to choose stupid lines along tracks just to protect its head lights and panels which in turn no doubt caused more damage underneath dropping into ruts and the like that could have easily been avoided by just deliberately clipping a few whilst barging through!
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So what size cable should I buy? I obviously need cable ends too.
It's a 130+ Amp motor, probably 70mm2 is what I would use.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yeah go 70mm most run that with HM's
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Righto so she’s done. Got my Stainless screws and they’re in. Apart from making the leads. It’s almost time to remove the bar.
Attachment 80956
Attachment 80958
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