TB42 Auto box Electricals?

Can you bypass the factory switch and put your own in for the tc lockup and see if this eliminates your gremlin?

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

Can you bypass the factory switch and put your own in for the tc lockup and see if this eliminates your gremlin?

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I reckon that could work if its not the lock up solinoid. But i really just want it to work properly, i hate patching things up. Its gotta be a fixable thing albeit ellusive at the moment!! Some things are just sent to test us!

With the switch idea it will rule out a harness problem can do this from diagnostic point of view just as a temporary to source the problem if it goes away with the switch bypassed then you could have a broken wire or something which is only playing up once warm etc weirder things have happened.

Hi taslucas I've also got an auto GQ though mines a little older 89 model tb4.2 and I've had a few heat issue with it but an similar issue to yours but this seems heat related and also related the the throttle position sender as when I get lockup it will stay no worries though when I push down a little further on the pedal to get a run up for a small hill or rise it flares similar to what yours has been doing though it only happens after around 50-80km of travel.. so after digging through the service/workshop manual I have noticed that my auto does not go through the radiator and is bypassing it straight for the external air cooler that's been added and I've just had my radiator re-cored from the standard two core to a three and I was wondering if you or anyone that owns an auto on here could advise on how much of a benefit I would see from reconnecting the auto through the radiator and then to the external cooler and also could you tell me or take a photo so I can see if its connected with metal pipe across the top and rubber across the bottom and what sort of pipe it is.
cheers pacs

Taslucas, any progress on your auto?

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Originally Posted by pacs

Hi taslucas I've also got an auto GQ though mines a little older 89 model tb4.2 and I've had a few heat issue with it but an similar issue to yours but this seems heat related and also related the the throttle position sender as when I get lockup it will stay no worries though when I push down a little further on the pedal to get a run up for a small hill or rise it flares similar to what yours has been doing though it only happens after around 50-80km of travel.. so after digging through the service/workshop manual I have noticed that my auto does not go through the radiator and is bypassing it straight for the external air cooler that's been added and I've just had my radiator re-cored from the standard two core to a three and I was wondering if you or anyone that owns an auto on here could advise on how much of a benefit I would see from reconnecting the auto through the radiator and then to the external cooler and also could you tell me or take a photo so I can see if its connected with metal pipe across the top and rubber across the bottom and what sort of pipe it is.
cheers pacs

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Hi Pacs,

If you don't mind, what the atf temperature reads on your auto with out the factory cooler in the radiator?

Cheers,
Ade

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Originally Posted by ripper

Okay, well I got a lot more net time than I expected today, so I've written my auto story and read yours.



So your power light stays on after you change gears and press the power button on and off in the right sequence?

If so, you need to get a copy of page 41 and 42 of the AT section of Nissan's GQ workshop manual, it clearly explains how to test each of these components. No guesswork, just checking voltages at the TCU with a multimeter. It's a process of elimination.

I found this very tedious with our auto, but it was what led to fixing it.


So in less than a week this should arrive?

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what was your fix? I've replaced the tcu no change, tried unplugging kickdown switch all that did was cause power light to flash several times when I started the car, powrr shidt switch is working fine, drops it back to 3rd when engaged havent tested inhibitor switch yet but got a second hand on on sunday and havent tested idle switch circuit yet, just cant get into diagnostic mode just get as far as power light staying on, which is error code "inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged"

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Originally Posted by ckh

what was your fix?

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Covered the whole drama of our auto here but I'll try to give more help in a minute.

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Originally Posted by ckh

just cant get into diagnostic mode just get as far as power light staying on, which is error code "inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged"

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If this is all it will give you I'd start with that.
In the Nissan workshop manual it will give a process of elimination based on that result. I wouldn't bother trying to guess where the problem is, I'd just follow the manual step by painful step. I never would've found our problem any other way. None of the main components were faulty in ours, the problem was in the wiring itself.

I later damaged our tcu by putting 12 volts into it where it was meant to come out, but that has managed to reset itself, so the whole thing is great now.