When box was off did they check things like crank shaft end play or anything to do with the motor?
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When box was off did they check things like crank shaft end play or anything to do with the motor?
Was a new spigot bush installed? Was the gearbox input ahaft checked for straightness?
New 2nd hand clutch booster is in and it has fixed the problem. I have got my car back now!
Yeah, the point I was trying to make is that you didn't have to pay the cost of labour again if the mechanic stuffed it up. Clutch cost peanuts comparing the labour cost. 12 months warranty should cover both parts and labour, at least in the case of clutch replacement.
Otherwise, what is the point? Spare part can be just a couple of dollars as in welch plugs. Then the labour can be hundreds, if not thousands. I remember having to pull the whole bloody engine out of a car, just to do a single welch plug.
So over 6 months and a lot of money later and I am still having clutch problems... everything in the hydraulic system except for some of the lines (which are not leaking) is brand new. New slave and master cylinder, new second hand booster, new clutch and flywheel.
I'm finding that when I first start the car, the clutch is perfect. But after driving for a while, the friction point of the clutch moves up the pedal. I don't know if it is dependent on temperature, but that's what I'm thinking?
So at first the friction point is pretty close to the floor which is fine. But after 10 mins or so it starts getting closer to the driver. On our last Licola trip it had moved so far the clutch started slipping, I haven't driven the car since this trip though.
Could it possibly be a vacuum issue? Any other ideas?
I am pulling my hair out with these bloody clutch dramas!