Another TB42 to TD42 Conversion

Well, I'm thinking if i start the rebuild this weekend, and with some other commitments to 4x4 Adventure TV show shoot, and other club functions that are happening between now and Anzac. i'm tipping about end of April / Start of May if all goes to plan.

KUDOS TIME - - - - HEADSPEC ENGINEERING (Clayton North Vic) Tel: 9561 8005
This guy is simply awesome, he has really looked after me on price and was kind enough to meet me after hours on a Saturday to allow me to drop off my motor to his workshop, then after chatting for about 15 minutes, he invites me in and gave me a full tour of his work shop, showing me all the equipment that would be used on my motor along with some of his custom work he’s done for race spec car engines and some really rare car owners restoration projects. Straight down the line honest as fella, if it don’t need doing, he won’t rip you off, I highly recommend him, and he even contacted Engines Australia and got me a good price on my rebuild kit. Honestly, I cannot recommend him enough, if you need any engine work, contact Frank Della Monica at Headspec (03) 9561 8005. He even keeps a photo log of his work that he is happy to send to you via email so you can see how everything is progressing.


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Look at you ya club junkie

Well I just had a massive weekend in the garage, I woke up early on Saturday morning to go and collect my motor from the machine shop, and then I had to go get my wheel rotation and a tire repair done so I never made it home till about 2.30pm. After walking the mutt and getting my tools ready I didn't start work on the motor till about 3pm. I unloaded it from the car and put it on the stand and contemplated the rebuild process.

I started by inserting the new longer oil Squirters in the bottom of the block, the old squirters are not as long as the turbo ones (Pictured). Having inserted all the oil jets I then pre-oiled all the main bearing caps and bearings with fresh diesel engine oil & inserted all the new main bearings into the top of the block ensuring all the oil feed holes were aligned.

After checking they were all seated and aligned correctly I unwrapped my crankshaft from the wrapping and gently laid it in place on the new bearings ensuring it was a good fit. I then pre-oiled all the main bearing caps and fitted the bearings into the caps and fitted the caps torquing them down to the required 177Nm, once all bolts were to spec I spun the crank in the bearings and it rolled around as smooth as silk…
Then I fitted a new rear main seal. I was then planning to fit my pistons but unfortunately just ran out of time.

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On Sunday Morning I started working about 11am and was planning to have the pistons fitted along with the front timing gear. I started out by removing all my pre-balanced & assembled pistons and rods from the box, all I had to do was fit the rings and end bearings and fit them into the cylinder liner.
Starting at the front of the engine I put all the rings on the pistons making sure I had all the markings facing upwards and all the gaps were set 180 deg from each other corresponding to the position of the piston pin (Little end). I then sliced my thumb on the piston ring compressor.. grrrrrr. We have a bleeder.

Anyway after I plugged the cut with some engine assembly grease while lubrication the liners all was good and I started to fit the pistons to the new liners.

Each piston was inserted very carefully to avoid damage to the cylinder liner wall and the end cap bearings which I had installed and pre-oiled as before. I then rotated the engine to ensure that it moved freely and easily with no obvious signs of binding, all was good to I then proceeded to torque down the big end bearing caps.
I now had a block with a perfectly balanced crank and pistons fitted. (The cam shaft was already fitted by the machine shop after they installed my new camshaft bearings).

Next was the new oil pump fitment after also filling the recess with oil to aid with the initial pump priming, once the oil pump was fitted I went to fit the backing plate so I could fit the cam gear, however I realized I forgot to clean off the old gasket on the backing plate, so I started to clean up the old gasket only to find I was an absolute mongrel to get off (took me 2 hours to get it clean). Once I had the old gasket off I fitted the new gasket and the backing plate to the front of the block followed by the cam gear and the idler gear and then the fuel pump aligning all the timing marks correctly.

Time was now really getting on and 5pm I decided to fit the front cover, vacuum pump and temporally fit the sump (Mainly to keep the damp air off everything) and by 5.45pm I decided to call it a day.

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30 grms is a bit of difference on the rods noice of EA for going the extra mile to source matching rods.
Im re doing my catch can fittings ATM using AN8 fittings on one end and false AN looking hose clamps on the other end
with some braided line.
As for you fuel tank Mudski did an awesome job on his with some POR-15 and that stuff sells its self.
Builds coming along nicely I see, and yes you need the $$$$ when bargains are there, everyone here can tell a story of losing a bargain,
Going VASS seems the right thing to do saves a lot of tissues later on.
This is the first brand new buildd Ive read in a long time, most just slap a 2nd hand motor in and hope .

Forgot did you de-burr the inside of the block??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Forgot did you de-burr the inside of the block??

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The entire block was machined and finished, so i assume so, there were certainly no sharp edges on anything i have seen (except my piston ring compressor)

Did you check the squirter alignment?

Not sure dale, can you explain for me... I located the squirters in the pins they sit in and they do not rotate once located ? the jets poit directly at the underside of the piston crown and my understanding is that the oil jet squirts under the piston to cool it down ... If there is something im missing its not to late as the bottom end is still easy to get into..
????

Cheers

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If you have fitted turbo pistons, there is a small hole the tip needs to point into. The oil goes through the crown on turbo ones, N/A ones it just points at the bottom of the crown.

I found mine didnt quite line up with the hole on install. Have to made small adjustments to the jet. Ie. Bend the jet.

Awesome that is great info Dale. yes i do have the turbo pistons same as yours... Thanks i will get onto it - what did you use to align them accurately ?

Just wind the engine over until the piston is at the lowest point. Then just gently maneuver until they are central.

Works case scenario on being misaligned is they bend or break and provide no cooling.