Machine shops and clutch shops but not engine rebuilders.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Ah I'll ring the fellar who rebuilt my GTR engine in the morning.
don't know why I didn't think of that first lol.
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Machine shops and clutch shops but not engine rebuilders.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Ah I'll ring the fellar who rebuilt my GTR engine in the morning.
don't know why I didn't think of that first lol.
Engine builder advises me not to machine weight off cast fly wheel.
"They are prone to breaking once altered".
get a billet was his advise.
ok another hickup,
well I'm saving heaps and getting lots done for the dollars ratio.
so bit more time off the rd won't kill me.
gotta stay positive, bit more research.
Also the front input seal on gear box, its a FS5R50B
apart from needing a new cover gasket.
Is there any reason I can't remove front cover to replace this seal ??.
I don't really want a snow ball affect, but it makes sense to replace while engine is out.
Interesting. There are many high powered tds with lightened standard flywheels running around without an issue. Some with upwards of 700nm.
Yes just pull the retainer out and replace seal and gasket even input bearing if your keen.
Ok input seal taken care of thanks.
Thought I may run into a issues with end play clearance tolerances if I replace just the gasket.
what about the self sealing bolts? reuse with sealer or just replace.
Front g/box input bearing slips off easily?.
Engine builder is hi performance/hi rev tech builder.
have taken that as a err on the side of caution given his usual build specs, 6k+ rev band.
but 2nd 3rd opinion is always worth considering.
I'm more interested in the harmonics of flywheel & crank with increased torque spread over low rev band.
think its a wise idea to lighten a little going by what Iv'e read here, en there.
Again old mav has alot of useful yrs of knowledge and wisdom.
I know my torque figures aren't up there but I'm building for longevity.
Porting the std header??.
I ve just finished porting the header inlet
the twin ports of the exit is a very crude looking area.
Is it worth removing material to form a so called "knife edge " on it's exit ??.
Oh, just put front & rear seals, sump gasket, water pump and harmonic balancer back on.
some progress at last.
Front g/box input , vac pump and lower thermostat fitting seals ordered all gen parts and good prices.
that's for preventive maintenance while engines out.
Will look at input bearing while front covers off and get a new one also.
no gasket for that according to manual it's silicon sealed.
Finally found a shop fairly close, Duncan and Foster in Blacktown, that can machine and bal the flywheel, also well priced.
Approx $300 to lighten, surface grind and balance.
Also found a work shop Westend Performance in Campbelltown who can balances the complete rotating assembly, harmonic to flywheel as a unit.
This evening got board so reconditioned the 2 water fittings from thermostat housing.
Save $30 bucks I suppose.
but its more like, I like to do it myself.
Will now get another few yrs out of them.
lightly sand blasted the ends to remove scale
Wire wheel stripped the gunk off.
This gives a smooth shinier surface, which plates better.
I could of filled the pits with solder but didn't feel like it, and they are not that badly pitted.
ya then scrub clean with sugar soap mix to remove any residue.
Rinse off.
Then plate the zinc back on about an hr.
Another wash and rinse.
Then dip in goldbrite to give the goldish coloured finish.
Hang to dry. diy.
Attachment 62303Attachment 62304Attachment 62305Attachment 62306Attachment 62307
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
Ordered a Preluber kit while the engine upgrade is happening.
all depends how long it takes to arrive ex US.
Stored oil pressure is automatically released via oil pressure switch port before the engine starts when key is turned to aux.
that'll add yrs to the engines life.
Attachment 62376
would 3/8th bsp to 10mm hose barb in copper be better as in longer lasting as it cant rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
just saying.
Where do you buy copper ones? The only ones I know of are the brass ones but they are no better than the ones which come with the engine?.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs