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The studs go in very easily when they are lubricated. The lubricant does not negatively affect the interference fit, but you really don't need to do a freeze shrink fit. I initially seated the studs using a 4" handled ratchet wrench until they were seated, then finished them off with the torque wrench for certaintyQuote:
Originally Posted by Brissieboy
Wiring issues again. FI Interchiller has been under performing, not chilling adequately, so went chasing the switch valve, found it down on volts so am going to upgrade the line size, however plugged the flowmeter back in and found the flowrate down at 14lpm instead of 40, so another beesting to chase, just upgraded that wiring to get the 40. Wonderful time experiencing all this - NOT.
Its great when issue appear just before a trip! Not. While my trip is not a epic as yours i'm having a few issues also. But now, all my work has to be done outside and in the dark and i can't get the Patrol into the garage with the roof rack on.
The Legendary ET @EvilTwin here kindly once recommended for us all…. ‘Dynamic Steelies’ harnessed via Nissan OEM studs for longevity and repair…ability [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
Truly miss that young fellas advice, he’s personally kept me rolling for well over a decade of nuffy line shenanigans [emoji23]
https://youtube.com/shorts/gk8bKeN2A...X55JgVHLzYEI0E
FWIW: Not that this was your issue Philstar, whenever we change tyres/rims over and or left open to the atmospheric corrosion a good hard wire brushing (cleaning) of rims <> drivetrain should be conducted [emoji736][emoji736]
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Where are you off to Mark?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
One thing I did notice was pitting on the Willwood aluminium brake hub and to a lesser degree on the Nissan GU4 rims. I buffed off the surface and brought it back to flat - unsure if there is some similar metal corrosion going on - another avenue of enquiry to chew up my life, but it does not look normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I think if I was doing the crazy arse trips like you do at times, then the steel rims are the way to go. My driving is more sedate these days, in fact almost disappeared within the last 5 yrs in all honesty, so the factory rims will do me fine for Muddy's and All terrains until I find otherwise.
Leaving tomorrow to see my Daughter in Augathella QLD. She works on a cattle station up there. Then heading west past her old work place, AKA The Prison, in Noccundra, then into Innaminka, having a sniff around there for a couple of days then meander down to Cameron corner then start heading south toward home. Not a big trip like yours but i don't have a lot of time so we are fitting in what we can.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Its big enough. all miles, have a safe and trouble-free tripQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
The Golden Goose continues to lay rotten eggs. I noticed a change in pitch with the engine running and discovered the vac pump not turning, 8 rig belt skipping over the drive pulley, tensioner arm way out of position, so belt has decided to stretch and stop driving the vac pump. I have some HD belts to change out so its an easy fix. Was trialling these softer belts as the HD green belts are quite stiff and click for the first 10 mins of the day, very noisy. Added a piezo buzzer to the new glow plug activation circuit - I have forgotten to switch the glow plugs off and the battery voltage plummets to zero. I am running the Blue Optima Marine which is the same as the yellow but with additional terminals. Its a bit of a challenge to jump start but the battery does come good after 24hrs on the charger. The buzzer is another aid to remind me it is on. So I guess thats a win for the day, have to take the small ones when I can.
I have had Optima Yellows go to Zero and have been able to pull them back up to charge. They are a very hardy battery.