By Bypassing the piston rings!Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner98
Cheers, the ferret.
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By Bypassing the piston rings!Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner98
Cheers, the ferret.
yeah, I get that part, so it looks to be a cheap fix/life extender for a tired engine. there was a couple of blokes with new-ish trucks looking at the bypass option,
why bother with a healthy engine? if, no real change in power/fuel consumption?
mate, I'm not a mechanic but I like my patrol just like any other bloke on this forum and I want my old 2.8 to keep kicking for a while longer so I will probs do this bypass option, but for a newish healthy truck I probs wouldn't bother
I do appreciate your feed backQuote:
Originally Posted by oilburner98
Mate, to be honest, If I bought a brand new nissan, the egr would be blocked before I took it out of the driveway, have you ever had a look inside the inlet manifold when EGR has not been blocked??Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner98
Well have a gander at the below pic>
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...rret/7-1-1.jpg
Cheers, the ferret.
Back in the old days, we would "port and pollish'' the inlet and exhaust manifolds, this was very painstaking and took hours to do.
It involved sanding and pollishing and buffing to get the smoothest finish.
Even the crankshaft would be removed and all of the sand casting marks would be pollished off, leaving a mirror like surface.
This was to reduce any friction between the sump oil and the crank.
for example, we had a Ford 10, 4 cylinder side valve motor pulling 7000 rpm.
So, an inlet manifold packed with 5mm of carbon/oil/ soot etc, is only going to cause over heating, and when the MAF get's the message after being coated with oily mist and dust, and then relaying the info to the ECU, you will end up over fueling and a hole in the piston due to high temps
The people who invented the EGR don't give a rats about how long your engine will last, all they care about is the environment.
So I block the EGR and grow ROSES!! not.
Cheers, the ferret.
yep, got it. cheers Ferret.
by the sounds of this.... i need to block this up right away
ok guys this has been a great thread but let me get this right....
i have a CRD 3lt 08 gu...
1. get egt and boost gauges installed. ( would love some ideas on where to put said gauges )
2. mount egr plate. ( will be getting plate from ferret.)
3. Dawes valve to adjust boost.
4. get scan gauge to get rid of error code and to help monitor engine.
sounds easy.. ( time for piggy bank to meet hammer....)
am thinking also about a boost and egt gauge, have you seen the gauge mounting panels that replace the pillar trim on the drivers side, they are on ebay?
I'm going to pull the cover off mine next week to have a look, pretty sure it will look similar.
I have bought one that has a colour match option. Try this link for the ' K ' trim.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pillar-Po...item4164862d00
Make sure you ask to have the holes cut out.
There are also a raft of boost and EGT kits out there on EBay.
These are similar to the ones I bought.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PYRO-EGT-...item19caed7d67
Hey all, just thought I would follow up on this post & keep anyone who may be interested up to date, on refferal from the ferrett I checked another forum for further info on my overboost issue & from there decided to try the VNT adjust method, well I can highly recommend it as with a half turn of the VNT screw in a clockwise direction the boost after a drive does not randomly fluctuate any more & when giving it a bootfull boosts to 14 psi max now not wildley up to 21psi as before & on cruise ay 110kph again it does not go over about 12 or 14psi where before it could go to 21psi in bursts. Who would have thought given such a small adjustment it could make such a difference. The job was a bit fidley but took all of 20 minutes to do so I felt was much easier than fitting a bleed valve but that is only my opinion & each to thier own. If anyone is interested to know how to do the VNT adjustment here is a thread I used from another forum hope the boys dont mind me using it....patrol4x4.com/forum/members/geeyoutoo-46168/albums/adjusting-vnt-grub-screw-843Quote:
Originally Posted by got the bug
Cheers,
GTB
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FORUM MANAGEMENT
can anybody tell me why by blocking off the egr the boost will raise by the ecu?
cheers :D
Any negative side affects to blocking the egr? i have read over boosting is a problem intermittently and i am looking into getting a gu patrol. thankfully i have researched this engine and now know what to look for!
When you block the EGR, the boost isn’t raised by the ECU, but it increases because the intake air pressure can’t escape out through the exhaust any longer and all the exhaust gasses are being used to drive the turbo charger rather than some of them being re-directed back into the induction system.
So, in short after blocking the EGR, the turbo drives a bit harder/faster, which will increase boost similar to fitting a larger exhaust allowing the turbo to spin up faster due to less exhaust restriction.
Overboosting is the only negative side effect, but is easily overcome by adjusting the turbo or fitting a manual boost controller.
Woohoo, just looked at the egr solenoid on the plenum and can see what looks like one of those blocking plates poking out, stoked! Thanks for the write up.
You need to loosen the two bolts to the manifold and just check that it is blocked, there is a plate that looks like a blocking plate, but it's not!!Quote:
Originally Posted by PHT33
Cheers, the ferret.
Oh, ok. Will have a closer inspection then. Thanks ferret.
Has anyone had overboost issues after blocking a CRD.?
Now this is a good question....has anyone????Quote:
Originally Posted by cambo
Howdy gurus!
Still wanting to know if this is a viable mod for a TB42e or not??
I've just about got everything needed to complete the NADS. I'm only waiting on the dawes...Can I do the lot including the EGR plate all together? EGR and boost gauge included. As it would be easier because half the car is in bits. Or should I do the dawes and needle first, run the car , then EGR etc etc.
Do the lot at once mate, then you can tweak the Dawse valve.
Cheers, the ferret.
Fitted the Ferret blank today. Thanks to Ferret, Chaz & others for their exceptionally useful advice & experience - so much easier when others have done the pathfinding before you. Thanks guys.
The 4.2 runs so much better, less restricted in acceleration, turbo spools up about 400rpm sooner, no big boost issues. IC & hoses were oily, but not as much as I'd expected for an '06 4.2 with 117K km.
cheers,
What did you use to clean the intercooler out. I'm just about to do my 4.2
Finally got around to making a blank from some old stainless around the house, (from my fish-cleaning bench top, may as well get some use out of it!). The original diagram and measurements were fine for my 2.8TD and the difference in acceleration and spool up is noticeable. Thanks for the info folks, the thread has been very informative, if it happens to give better fuel consumption then that will be a nice bonus.
Bruce
Ferret your a legend for posting the picture of the zd30 ,I have been considering blocking the Egr for a while but was getting lost and couldnt find it. Thanks NeilQuote:
Originally Posted by the ferret
I'm un blocking my EGR tomorrow as I can't controll boost via the dawes, That Chaz has drawing for that set up, just getting too much boost so it over boosts big time. Getting fed up with piece of s%^T nissan
Just checking before I launch into this....
I don't have an intercooler so that means that there is no butterfly valves to take out.
All I need to do is to install the EGT plate.
Yep, if it's a 4.2, just block it.
It's a good idea to fit boost gauge, pyro and a catch can.
Cheers, the ferret.
I've just gotten to driving my new '99 patrol GR, and i'm planning on blocking the EGR, reading this thread, i've decided the pro's far outway the con's
Are there any specific tips for my model?
I've printed the openingpost and a plate will be made for my EGR, but do i have to change anything else after blocking the EGR? I've read some things about the butterfly valve?
Thanks in advance
neither of my 4.2 GU's have an EGR [1999 and 2000 utes]
My father has a 2006 4.2 TD intercooled, if we fit the blanking plate and remove the butterfly is there anything else to do in the way of adjustments ?
Generaly speaking, that's all you need to do to the 2.8 and the 4.2. (Block the EGR)
It is a good idea to fit a boost guage, that way you can monitor the boost and make changes if required
Cheers, the ferret..
Thanks Ferret, do i have to remove the butterfly valve aswell?
And i think there will be a problem finding a boost valve on this island
Only the butterfly itself, not the whole valve!!Quote:
Originally Posted by OhBugger
Cheers, the ferret.
Thnx, i'll try it. The plate is allready being made.
First priority however is fixing my brakes...
Do you also need to remove the vacuum line on the egr valve? (to stop it opening)?
I have noticed spots of exhaust soot on the intake runners. The blocking plate is fitted, with dawes valve.
Seems to happen at higher revs. Could the egr valve be leaking?
Once you have blocked the EGR, nothing can enter the inlet via the EGR.
Just leave all the vacuum hoses as original..
If you have a leak from the EGR, then you need a new gasket, altho the flow through effect is reduced by blocking the EGR.
If the EGR is broken and jammed open or closed, it won't affect the function of the EGR block, once it's blocked, it's blocked.
Cheers, the ferret.
Cheers!
Tipsy-tap
Think I will order a blocking plate after reading this cheers guys