[QUOTE=biggqwesty;599274]No offence mate but I hope they do a better install than the pic. That's a hack of an install and heaps of panel removed for no reason.
haha ye il be installing myself...
cheers
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[QUOTE=biggqwesty;599274]No offence mate but I hope they do a better install than the pic. That's a hack of an install and heaps of panel removed for no reason.
haha ye il be installing myself...
cheers
Well finally put my rear drawers in..put in my blue leds for dash cluster.. aircon panel etc.. wired up my reverse lights to switch up the front... stil dnt know whats up wiv my high idle but besides that the bus is going alright...
Looking good MH got a dimmer on the gauges,
Is the high idle constant or intermittent
late edit. getting 1.5mm skimmed off the inside of the OE maf housing.
I have most bits to install the new larger intake but the body wont allow me GGGRRrrrrrrrrrr
It idles up once engine warms up... If I clutch it in gear and slowly let the clutch out and have my other foot on the break it wil drop idle back to normal.. Or if u turn the aircon on...So that's what I usually do when I'm sitn at lights etc... Otherwise it free revs anywhere between 1 n 2k... Gauges are Algood at night.. Just looks bright in pic...
Whats next on the to do list ??
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html
MH have a read through this, it might solve your high rev issue
Cheers theeedogs... That was a long but good read...
I havent fitted my 76mm intake yet, Mark has nearly done his.
Im waiting now on a 60 degree bend as I dont think a 45 will work.
I'll also be taking your Maf to a mate on Tues, to see if he can skim a mil or so off it.
Catch can hoses look a trear AN10 braided with black hose clamp ends.
found the high idle problem yet?
With the FBW throttle some here have removed it drilled [very carefully] a small hole in it
and given it a squirt with CRC or similar, with good results.
cant drive a bit harder to iron out that spot where it high idles
if you get what I mean
I've come to believe it might have something to do with the flyby wire... Or tbs..
Good work with your maf/intake setup... I have no doubts it will come out a treat...
Was on the gu face book page and was dumbfounded at the amount of no it alls and misinformed knowledge of patrol/zd30 owners...
One bloke trying to say mpd maf housing gives u less power than standard...
Another saying it will make ur motor and turbo blow up cause of incorrect air fuel ratios...
Upgrading Intercooler pipes are more important than upgrading standard intercooler
Catch cans are just a waste of money
The rear hoop at the back is a recovery point
If you don't have a Dawes and needle valve fitted your car will blow up
Anything over 22 psi your turbo will blow up
500-600 on the pyro is perfectly normal...
Most of us know this is far from the truth...
I've tried to help out fellow patrol owners with answers speaking from experience..
One bloke had constant issues with limp mode and asked how can he fix it.. I told him my experience with my hpd maf sensor housing.. Saying I was running up to 27 psi with no limp mode issues.. And was called a liar.. Lol..
Advised that rear hoop on the rear of the car is a tie down point and should be used as such rather than a recovery point...replied with I've always used it as a recovery point what would I knw.. Haha
Informed the hole in the blanking plate for the egr is for the crds not Di... Again your wrong etc..
Dawes and needle valve allow you to manually set boost pressure and spool up rate.. While this is my understanding.. There were people saying.. There simply used to give u more power... U must fit them cause if u don't your 3l will blow up...if u have Dawes valve u don't need a catchcan... Hmmm?
Advised of how the factory intercooler are prone to leaking.. Then was told there more than efficient and that money is better off upgrading intercooler pipes..hmm lol
The higher boost you run the less efficacy... Not in my exp.. The higher boost/more dense the intake charge the lower your egts...
Your running more than 22psi your turbo is about to explode... While I think high excessive boost can potential put more strain on the turbo... It is not constantly spooling at the higher 27psi rate.. This would be max boost... At 100k it is anywhere between 5-10 psi... The time difrence between 15psi up to 27psi would only be a matter of seconds between gear changes in the higher end of the rev range... I like to think it as this way.. When your constantly red lining a car this puts a lot more strain on the motor.. Now if you drive the car.. Say it revs to 7k.. Redline starts at 5k.. Revving it to the red line range then change gear.. Does that mean your motor is ready to blow up? And would you say it gave you less power in doing so? I don't believe in none of this I'm right your wrong nonsense... Or any of the other wank factors... I got the most flex.. You need to run 35s minimum...Yours ain't a 4x4 if it ain't locked and lifted... Should had bought a 4.2...etc... Lol
I understand how much pride people take in there vehicles but to me it's about getn out on the tracks with family and friends and enjoying some quality down time... If your happy how your rig goes then happy days...
I wouldnt suggest using the rear loop to recover it will fail same as the hook on the front.
I was talking to my Mechanic 335 RwKW Patrol about upgrading my turbo pipes to 60mm.
I think they are 50mm with step ups on both ends to 60mm, He said not to ATS.
After reading abit about the DP chip not handling these HPD and bigger intake pipes Im
a bit reluctant to fit mine.
MH read #208
What I don't get is people read or hear something and take it as gospel...
My understanding as to why these engines calls quits is a combination of things but a main theory being because of the egr and oil blow by mixing together to form a oily mist/sludge which can not only completely cake and block the whole intake but also coat the maf sensor causing it to read incorrectly... Sometimes resulting in incorrect readings which can cause the Ecu to ritchen up the fuel making holes in pistons... Now correct me if I'm wrong.. But you then attempt to eliminate that possibility by blocking off your egr and fitting an inline catch can... By blocking the egr it's not common to see an increase in boost.. Enough to put the patrol into limp mode.. Hence why people use the likes of a Dawes and needle valve to manually control boost levels and spool up rate of turbo... This is my simplified understanding of nads...
Now I've been told the ecu makes them blow up because they can't read boost and that the power delivery is to irattic hence why the use of Dawes and needle valve...
Then why are there so much patrols out there with no nads with high k's and not a trouble in the world... When doing my injector pump and removing and seeing the state of the intake... It gave me a better understanding of what effect a blocked up intake would have on the engine... Now this is due to a few factors but mainly being because of the engineering involved to meet the strict emission laws... I simply don't believe it's a luck of the draw with the ecu being incompetent in the reading of boost and calculating of fuel delivery why they blow up... And hence why a Dawes and needle valve are used... Instead of the factory ecu.. I've done all supporting mods to my understanding.. And yet I've been told I can't run over 22psi that my turbo will blow up.. That my motor is just about to blow up because I'm not using Dawes n needle valves.. It's going to blow up because I've got a different maf housing which is causing it to drop 2v and lean out the fuel which is going to make it blow up... I'm getn excessive heat soak and causing to much back pressure.. Ive basically got half the power compared to standard form because of aftermarket intercooler and higher boost...I've herd it all... In my opinion that's how things are learnt.. Through exp not from a mates mate who said that his mate said this... It's simple realy.. If it works it works.. If it ain't broke why fix it...
And all this from a guy who thought he brought a Lemon lol
The Mulletmobile is alive and well
Well said 3dogs... And might be in the market for some new front recovery points soon.. Not that I need them but there been on the to do list... Also got to go pick up my new 4 inch snorkel from powdercoaters... So another thing on the to do list when I can be bothered... Lol.. Also going to wire up the rear of my bus so it's 12v Central.. And making a rear slide/bracket to house my solar panels under my roof rack... All on the to do list.. Lol
Colour coded snorkle ??
Always here for you, lol
Nah just plain black.. Stainless abit too out there... Also need to order some more 40nb steel to finish my sliders...
Finally pulled my finger out and smashd yet another job off my to do list...
looking good there champ.
How recessed is it? I'm looking at a 4" for my GU Ute. If you had your time again would you still go for this one?
Cheers champ... in the pic its half recessed.. and the front of the snorkle bends inwards behind the guard... so 4 inch all the way to the airbox... i have no doubt how much better airflow would be compared to befor and after... standard they have like a black sponge like a pre filter.. it was filld with dust and sand... a went for the black powdercoating cause i think polished stainless is a bit too out there...
Brushed stainless is not so "out there",
but it looks good with the powder coating.
Did you get it clear coated as well looks better lasts longer?
Nah i didnt bother clear coating.. but i do liked the brushed lookd with the clear coat... might do that when i finsh knockn up my sliders tho...
Latest mod to compliment my new snorkle...
Yo MH light bars look good up top. great side wide beam eh
Nah ye they work good.. nice bright spread and got hid spotties up frnt to help with distance but i wna upgrade to led spotties pending on how healthy the tax return looks.. lol
Finally sorted out my high idle issue and loss of power issue... sooo stoked.. back to boostn 20 plus psi... lovn it.. also going to be doing rear door table mod.. wiring up switches and a few other bits and pieces to the bus.. will post progress pics when i get into it....
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Well!? What was it?!Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
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High idle was tps.. and lack of power was maf...
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Good stuff, I spoke to a manager of a 4x4 shop about LED driving lights.
He also does outback guided tours, IHO they are not up there with HID yet'
your light bar should throw the same amount of light. For night 4x4ing LED are the bee's
knee's and hard to beat. Good to hear you got it sorted
Did a little bit todayy...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/149.jpg
Also started on rear door table....
and started on building my frame to house my solar panels underneath my roof rack with 1200mm sliders...and also ordered me a water tank and pump that will fit nice and snug between back of rear seats and frnt of rear drawers...[emoji108]
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/154.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/155.jpg
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already over the loud turbo whistle coming from the turbo... not to bad with the windows up.. windows down is another story.. haha..
let me get this right you're complaining about the forced induction spool up noise? lol
Do the small door mod with a strut works a treat
haha ye its just so noisy.. started on my modding my stereo facia to acept my new rocker switches and digital volts display... since there flat and the facia panel is curved.. and since I'm bit of a fussy falla I'm going to add some filler.. sand it down till everything sits nice and snug.. no gaps and then prime and repaint it.. ye i know bit of an effort but i like things to be tidy/fuctional... also my led strips showed up so will be wiring them up in the rear and under bonnet when i do switches tomorrow...and hopefully finish mounting my solar panels under my roof rack and add a usb and cig socket upfront under my leds to power/charge my go pro and to plug in my 12v led strip/worklight. for the awning if needs be... will throw up some pics tomorrow...
Sounds good I have a heap of 12v work to do. My eldest is an auto elec which is a bonus.
Do those Carling style rocker switches fit in the three knock outs by the hand brake or do
they need filing. My awning light will be remote with a dimmer, its more a work light in brightness.
It will screw onto that yellow bar and with a few grommets and a merit socket hard wire it some how.
Have a look at the "COB" lights they are small and super bright, also check those bulls eye jobs,
I'm going to do my DRLs with the bulls eye like Clubby8 did a while ago.
Also thinking about mounting a small solar panel and a small battery behind the front of the roof rack
so the awning light is self sufficient, if you know what I mean.
solar storage under your roof rack sound good , i would probably have it on top so its working whilst in transit
.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252007678...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10X-9W-Re...item5d5b3c583d
Finally finish frame wiv 900 sliders to house solar panels under roof rack...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/228.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/229.jpg
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Will get some more pics of it mounted under rack tomorw... hay 3dogs it will still charge even under the mesh of roof rack... and should slide out 900mm frm back of patrol as a bit of extra shade when cookn snags on the rear fold dwn table...
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So bloody time consuming shaping this facia aw well..
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/230.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/231.jpg
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Painted and all wired upp back in car...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/237.jpg
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The switches are to big for the 3 plugs by the hand brake.. but you could make them fit there with a bit of cutting..Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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I think Mudski has 3 switches in the hand brake area.
I have that clock in mycamper, the OE is impssible to read IMO.
I have a triple pod ontop of the dash but changinging that,
I have a 52mm 12v clock, yet to be mounted
As for the solar working maybe only 70% if that.
I would of mounted it on top, it can handle a swag strapped to it if travelling
I mounted my Ecu-Talk infront of the instruments does not block any gauges or warnings.
but I have double din head unit
Your USB one I fit in the lower console area ,mine is a double Baintech job
On my centre facia I have 2 Baintech battery led monitors, and my light bar switch.
I may put the 52mm clock there also not sure yet