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I recommend getting your RB30 rebuilt by a mechanic that has experience in racing. The only problem I've had is that my new engine died above 4300 rpm. I replaced the fuel filter and took it for a drive. A hell of a lot more grunt, but still dying. I found that one of the rev limiter springs in the dissy button had snapped. I reworked and fitted the spring before giving it another drive. It goes like a cut cat. Very happy with that.
Had a big problem after the rebuild. The extra vacuum created by the port and polishing to the head, caused the steel air deflector under the second stage of the carby to break off.
The sheet metal component broke apart and was crunched by the pistons. Luckily for me, the metal is very soft and caused minimal damage. The deflector is there to help mix the exhaust gases fed in by the EGR valve, with the fuel air from the carby.
I have cut and filed of the remaining pieces of the deflector. I will have to obtain a deflector so I can maybe fabricate one with thicker steel, so that it will not fail again.
Thank you all for this very useful thread on the RB30S.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
My personal vehicle is a TD42, however I've inherited Dad's ST30, which is pretty much in original factory condition.
Right now I'm in the process of cleaning things up and sorting out a few ignition issues, it's got a bit of a miss.. Plugs and leads are on order.
In the meantime I've been looking at why it runs badly in cold damp weather. Turns out the intake pre-heat has been disabled - a ball bearing in the hose.
That's simple enough to fix - but - I think one of the mechanisms inside the air cleaner has also been damaged.
Can anyone school me on what these two are supposed to do?
The one with the plastic housing is most likely a temperature sensor valve. What's the other one though, marked '2X14'? Presently it just allows manifold vacuum to be bypassed directly to the intake.
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Follow the hose under the filter housing. If it is only missing at idle check for a vacuum leak. If you remove the ball bearing in the pre heat, you will hear the flap open when you put on and pop off the hose. To see if the flap is ok, vacuum will appear at the hole in the bottom of the filter housing when the hose is attached .
Thanks Mudnut,
This RB30 is a bit new to me, having been in a diesel for so long.
I tested the pre-heat actuator, the mechanism operates ok. So, once the ball bearing is removed and the sensor is fixed, it ought to help with cold running.
The miss occurs at all revs and under load, also it's quite repetitive, so I'm assuming it's missing on one or two cylinders.
Measuring the leads, they are ~10k except #5 and #6 which are over 22k.
The distributor was quite dirty inside. I've cleaned it all up and tested the advance is operating ok.
I still need to check the plugs. Have to run out and get a 16mm socket for that.
Once the electrics are sorted I hope the engine will return to its normal smooth running operation.
Last time I even looked at a petrol engine was in 1989 or there about. An old Hilux with the 18R engine. Takes me back.
Before taking out the plugs, use a bit of pipe to fit over them and vacuum out any crud that will fall into the cylinder.
I saw your advice on that vacuum cleaner trick, and did exactly that!
Still a bit of rubbish came out with the plugs... there was some oil or grease holding it in there I think.
Thanks to this thread, and helpful posts from Mudnut and Dom, I've got Dad's ST30 Patrol running sweetly again.
The sensors inside the air cleaner control the warm air intake, and had been blocked off at some stage, probably in a misguided attempt to disable emission controls. This would explain why the vehicle ran poorly in cold, wet weather. I've restored these sensors and the warm air intake now operates correctly. The image below shows how the vacuum hoses are run.
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New plugs and leads. The old leads were the cause of the engine misfiring. They were the original leads, dated 1992...
The new plugs and leads are all genuine NGK.
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Thanks to Mudnut for the post about using a piece of hose to thread the plugs in. This really is an easy and safe method to ensure the plugs are correctly installed and not cross-threaded. I was concerned about damaging the alloy head, this method eliminates that potential issue.
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After a good spray with carby cleaner, the RB30 is revving easier as well. That carby cleaner is like magic.
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I'm very impressed with how smoothly this engine runs. It sounds like a well oiled sewing machine.
A carby kit would be a good investment. The rubber components dry and go brittle with age.
Check the condition of the small fuel hose that feeds the carby.
They are well known for cracking and leaking. I could not find a replacement anywhere so I bought a piece of hose and six hose clamps. Two to clamp the hose ends. The other four keep the hose from kinking as you form the curve, but don't over tighten them.
The carby has had a kit put in it at some stage - I can see the screws have been removed by someone in the past. Dad can't remember exactly when though.
The short fuel hose is ok, perhaps it was replaced when the carby was serviced.
I'm sort of at the stage where I should find a new home for this ST30 and go back to driving the red TD42. The more work I do on the RB30, the less I'll want to part with it! Tempting to play around with it though hey?
The RBs are fantastic for sand driving as they rev out way more than either the TB or TD. Just pick a gear point it up a dune and plant the foot.
...And they're considerably lighter as well. Particularly this one; it's original, the only bolt-on is that alloy bullbar.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
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The main disadvantage is the timing belt. Dirt and water ingress are a problem. I have yet to add a hose to the top of my new engine's timing belt cover so a high volume low pressure air supply can keep the belt clean and dry.
Fortunately, Dad's ST30 has almost no off-road use. Mostly long distance touring. There's no mud evident, no rust that I can see, no under body damage. Presumably the timing belt area will be reasonably clean. "Silver" is almost factory-spec, Dad never was one for accessories.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Nice looking vehicle. You should get a good price for it.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
It makes me sad to think of selling it, because it'll be the end of an era.
I hope it finds a good new owner.
Took the RB30 up Goog's Track, SA recently. This is a popular 'mini Simpson' dune/desert drive, and goes from Ceduna around 200km north to the trans-Australian railway line.
Had no trouble with the Patrol... apart from the terrific corrugations on the railway line track from Malbooma all the way past Kingoonya to the Stuart Highway. Driver's side engine mount nut came loose, an exhaust mount snapped, and the factory jack managed to rattle its way out of the quarter panel holder.
Fuel economy: 16L/100km for the 1000kms from Ceduna, up the Googs Track (sand dunes, usually 4WD HIGH 2nd) and all the way back to Adelaide. This was with 31s, no roof rack, fairly light camping gear and only 2 people in the car.
These old buses can still get out there and mix it with all the dual-cabs that seem to be absolutely everywhere these days.
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Hi guys
Hoping for some help with intermittent starting issues.
Took the Patrol down an almighty, 'risk-the-panels' descent on the weekend, and after stalling at the bottom the poor thing wouldn't turn over. Managed to roll start it and continued around the track with no problems... thankfully not a trip-ruiner !
Battery is full, starter motor replaced new in 2017. All the dash lights come on. Engine runs fine once it's going. With engine off, turning the key from ON to START, there's absolute silence under the bonnet, not even a click.
But sometimes it will just start like normal.
I'm thinking it's a dodgy starter relay ? But do these RB30s come with one ? Have done some searching and can't seem to find a part anywhere...
Cheers fellas
Check the lug at the solenoid. Sometimes they look solid but can have carbon build up, especially if it is an aftermarket spade lug. Use a pair of pliers to tighten it. If that is ok, sometimes a a quick bang with a hammer will get you going. If that is the case, shelling out for a quality starter is on the cards.
Intermittent starting issues - update.
A bang with the hammer got the solenoid clicking (it wasn't before), but no sound from the starter and engine still won't turn over. Hopefully it's nothing more sinister, and looks like I'll be up for a new starter motor !
RIP the current starter motor 2017 - 2021... 46,000kms. It would have done 10+ beach weekenders, and several heavily corrugated outback roads, but never any mud or significant water crossings.
Check the battery voltage when starting. It could be an open circuit cell.
Hey guys
For anyone like me who's interested in a bit of RB30 history... here is an article from 4Wheeler Magazine (Winter '93) comparing the RB30 Patrol to Landcruiser, Jackaroo and Pajero.
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...and an original glossy Patrol brochure from back in the day...
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@MB it looks like the snorkel on your ute was a genuine Nissan option.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainNewman
Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
mind blown! and for what its worth, it was @AB ute first lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
If you have a stripped or cross-thead spark plug hole., this thread might help. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...d=1#post833617
Hi crew, thought I'd post a quick trip report from last year - I love that these old buses can still mix it out there in the bush. On this trip the Patrol clocked up 400,000kms.
We travelled up the Oodnadatta Track via William Creek to Dalhousie Springs, then into the Simpson Desert National Park and Reserve. We weren't planning to do a full crossing, so once the proper dunes started we went 3 or so dunes in and set up camp. On the return trip back through Maree and Leigh Creek, we turned east to Arkaroola (I'd worked there for a season 10 years ago) and spent 3 nights before heading home.
The old Patrol went fine, no major problems and the usual 13-15L/100kms fuel consumption for tires 30psi front & rear and 80-90km/hr on most of the unsealed (had tire monitors). With 140L long range tank we made fuel stops in Pt Wakefield, Pt Augusta, William Creek, Oodnadatta (Pink Roadhouse), William Creek, Arkaroola and Stirling North. The minor mechanical casualties were mostly due to corrugations:
- Picked up a bad tank of fuel in Pt Wakefield. Bunny hopped up most of the Oodnadatta track, had to change the fuel filter twice.
- 1x Rear brake backing plate cracked and eventually had to be removed
- Front diff housing started weeping oil, hairline crack next to the pumpkin and triangle weld
- Weather seal between the 2 halves of the rear sliding window fell off and had to be glued into place
- Welding on exhaust hangar to top of muffler cracked
and now for some photos:
Plenty of water around from recent Spring rains. This detour from the main track was tempting until it took us all afternoon to dig the car out. The RB30 seemed to have hardly any pulling power. Yours truly realised after 2 hours of fruitless unbogging that the handbrake had been on the whole time... We got out just in time to avoid offers of help from a convoy of dual cabs
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How's the serenity - 3 dunes into the Simpson
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Budget storage and roofrack setup - wouldn't want to make it too easy - three of us with two swags and food for 10 days
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Great to see the old bus being used for what it was made for. Some people scoff at the old dirty thirty. Apart from the timing belt being a bit vulnerable behind the harmonic balancer, they go everywhere other petrol models can.
It also looks beautiful. The RB rock cover looks so cool in comparison with the TB ones. The TB one is just a tin can doing its thing. The RB one sports shapes, logo, etc.
Time to check your nuts! With the engine off, whack the handbrake on and put it in fifth gear. Get under your Patrol, undo the four bash plate nuts and and use a long breaker bar and socket to check the Harmonic balancer nut. Gotta keep an eye on the bugger, especially if a mechanic has done any work on it.
Hi RB30 crew. A quick trip report - just got back from the Simpson with the RB, Oodnadatta to Birdsville via the French Line and QAA Line. Despite the Bash being on (13,000 camped at Big Red apparently), it was pretty quiet in the desert and we basically saw 1 other convoy each day (probably because the Birdsville Track was closed due to rain).
Fuel - took 130L in the long range tank, plus 80L in plastic jerries on the roof, so plenty spare.
RB30 sipped - got 21L/100kms from Oodnadatta to Birdsville, 698kms total mostly in 4H. Tracks were fairly slippery from recent rain, but the French Line seemed pretty good condition. Speeds 70-90km/hr on the gravel, 15-40km/hr in the desert. Tires 22psi rear, 18psi front. Had the second spare behind the front seats, and tried to keep all the weight between the axles (total load ~350kg, probably 25kg spare tire, 90kg water, 25kg food, 20kg luggage, 30kg camping gear, 100kg fuel + firewood up top, 30kg drawers, 30kg spares + tools etc.) plus 2 people.
Fuel economy Adelaide > Oodnadatta and Birdsville > Home was 15-16L/100kms doing 100km/hr in 4th, 5th with some headwind at times, tires at highway pressure.
No real mechanical casualties apart from both inner mud guards coming *close* to falling off with the weight of all the mud from the Oodnadatta track (cable tie fix), plus the carby losing rev power when cold (likely the second stage butterfly sticking as described by Mudnut and others, I still need to wet/dry the barrels and fix this). A crack which I'd previously had welded at the base of the driver's A-pillar/windscreen must have opened up again, because we had a constant 'clicking' soundtrack on the drive home.
Had a great time and no trouble getting up any of the sand dunes.
... did have some trouble getting through ponded water at the base of Big Red...
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Thanks for the write up, Cap. Great to see you again using the Dirty 30 above and beyond its intended purpose. From what research I can gather, the RB30 was released as a cheaper version for carrying kids and maybe for weekend away.
It sounds like you've gathered a wealth of knowledge on maintaining the RB30 engine! Your detailed instructions on checking the fuel return solenoid and the circuitry involved are really helpful for anyone troubleshooting similar issues. Thanks for sharing such valuable insights!
My supposed "heavy duty" clutch is slipping when under really heavy use. It is only 20000 ks old and did slip once before, under the same circumstances. Up steep dunes in 4wd low.
I recently bought another carby and carby kit. The bloke who runs the local dyno, fitted the kit. Unfortunately the auto choke was defunct, so I had to remove the heater spring and fit a manual choke. I already had the manual choke cable fitted, as the previous carby also had a dud auto choke. I will endeavour to take some pics of the modification. The same two components had failed on the new carby as the old one. The heater spring was open circuit, and the choke break diaphragm has a hole or split in it. I also used a ball bearing to block the choke break vacuum hose.