Thanks For the info Mat. Was discussing this topic today and im still up in arms about it.
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Thanks For the info Mat. Was discussing this topic today and im still up in arms about it.
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What are your concerns?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Mark, this is why I bought your Carter 4600. I read only positive advice about fitting a lift pump so I thought it was a good idea for the outlay..Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Thanks for the info Mat. It all seems to make sense I guess. I was looking at a Walbro pump as everything I've read suggests they are silent and already have internal bypass if they fail. Read a number of reports of noisey and/or failed Carters. The 2 pumps I'm looking at are
FRD-11 Minimum Flow Rate: 76 liters per hour (20 gph)
Deadhead Pressure: 28 to 48 kPa (4.0 to 7.0 psi)
The PDF brochure gives Flow up to: 190 liters per hour (52 gph)
FRB-13 Minimum Flow Rate: 162 liters per hour (43 gph)
Deadhead Pressure: 42 to 56 kPa (6.0 to 8.0 psi)
The PDF brochure gives Flow up to: 225 liters per hour (60 gph)
I notice in their PDF brochure they give a completely different figure of flow rate. (which I assume is a maximum with no restriction).
http://www.walbro.com/frb13-series-fuel-pump.aspx
My research suggested that Carter were the most used so it's logical (to me) that fault reports would be more common. It's perhaps indicative that the same person had 2 Carter failures in a short period whereas others have run them trouble-free for years.
They were mounted by Cummins as original equipment if I read correctly.
It might be of interest to some that someone actually mounted his lift pump inside the fuel tank so he can't hear anything. I certainly can't hear mine when the engine is running and it's just under my door.
Bypass is simple to add.
Back right hand corner on the exhaust mount if where i was going to mount it...
I had to remove my EFI fuel filter so that left the 2 metal fuel lines open. I mounted the Carter using those fuel lines because it was an easy option.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Correction. Back left hand mate. Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Well started to install the bits today. First up is the Radius Fab 4" snorkel.
As it started
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pscq0bcfgw.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psnvadkbvl.jpg
Out with the old
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psp3cncl4o.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjo0nnzes.jpg
Mark it up and take a deep breath, used an air hacksaw to chop out the hole. Also had to chop out both skins of the inner guard to 4"+ for the airbox inlet.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psqtxm4w93.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psbh5shzca.jpg
A sigh of relief
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5sfck1lr.jpg
What a pain in the butt getting the elbow into the airbox inlet hole through the inner guards, but fed it through from the engine bay side. The intermeadiate tube will only go in via the big new hole you just cut. Far out it's tight, there's only millimeters of clearance, like 1 or 2 if that. these things were never designed to accomodate 4" inlets that's for sure. Sprayed all the silicon bits with silicon spray to lub them up and they just slip on real easy and make it easy to adjust, doesn't solve the lack of space problem but at least it goes together easy.
Drilled a couple of extra holes in the A pillar, whacked in a few rivnuts and the bracket was done, easy as. The Radius Fab snorkel covers all the holes on the guard but leaves to top hole on the A pillar exposed. I simply drilled it out to 9mm, threw a rivnut in there and whacked a 6mm stainless button head screw in there, looks neat as.
A few hours later, after many, many trial fits and adjustments and it's done
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psmbi8m07f.jpg
Tomorrow I'll trial fit the airbox and intercooler and while I'm feeling confident, might chop the bonnet up and install the scoop.
Spent today fitting my new scoop. It's a great looking thing with a very high quality of finish.
First job, remove the under bonnet insulation and the original scoop, then sit the new cooler in place to mark out the location. Engine bay looks better already.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pslxrdq7sy.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psihlwnkgq.jpg
Put the little foam blocks on the corners of the cooler and close the bonnet. They stick to the bonnet, drill through next to them and you now have your cooler location. Get your template and a helper and locate the template on the bonnet, measure many times.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0m4odedx.jpg
Drill all the holes (27 of them) out to 8mm. First I drilled them at 3mm then removed the template, put down a heap of masking tape and then drilled them all to 8mm. Then trial fitted the scoop, all good. Get your air hacksaw out and chop a whopping huge hole in the middle of the bonnet. Clean up all the edges with a flapper wheel, debur and then give it a polish and your left with this. Seal the edges with some paint, I used Rust Guard and then sit the scoop on and see how it looks. This is as far as I got, I'll need to bolt it down later, much later.
Post edited, so as to not encourage other to bugger their bonnet...
NOTE: cut a rectangle that joins up the 4 holes you drilled through at the location of your foam blocks, don't follow the template like I did or you'll be up for another bonnet like I am
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psrmbslgry.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psej1agx6m.jpg
Coming along very nicely mate! Well done
Looks awesome Rod.
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Looks great Rod. Measure twice, cut once method for the bonnet ey...
This thread is pretty much a "To do" and " How to do" for me, since our cars are identical. lol
Haha I know what you mean, There's a couple of rigs on here and the other site that I get my inspiation and instructions from too, although mostly just search... Usually find what I'm after but generally also find about 3 other things that I should do as well.
Don't follow this install mate as I stuffed it up :1087::1087: I should have cut a nice rectangular hole joining up the drill holes from the foam blocks on the cooler. Instead I used these as a reference to ensure the scoop was centred over the cooler (front to back) then traced out the inner lip of the cooler template and cut that Bang HeadBang Head as such the foam on the cooler now won't touch or seal on the bonnet... I'll have to look at some infill panels or find another bonnet at a wreckers...
Are all the bonnets the same? If I just find a GU 4 onwards bonnet off anything I should be right, given that I will be cutting my own hole in it anyway. Any suggestions as to where I can find one?
Damn mate. That's no good. So, the way I understood it, you followed the paper template you had on top of the bonnet ???? But instead should have cut the inside-out where the foam stuck to the bonnet ?
Edit: I reckon wreckers are you best bet mate.
Yep, that's exactly right. I really don't know what was going through my head, not much obviously! I'm so pissed with myself it's not funny, it's seriously just a hassle I could do without at the moment.
Could have been worse I guess, at least it's only a bonnet and relatively easily fixed, just a pain in the arse.
I'll give a few wreckers a call today and see what the go is. Depending on the cost and what colour they have, if I have to get it painted anyway, I can buy new bonnets for just under $350 without searching to hard.
I fitted one of these scoops last week and nearly started drilling when I thought I had it centered but something did not seem right so a checked about 8 times until I checked the lines of the template and realised that the drill holes were way off... Im glad I checked so many times as in the past I would be in more of a hurry to get it done and would have missed this.
Bloody sucks mate big time and I do think they should be a little clearer in the instructions.
Yep, my mistake. Although if the instructions had a dotted rectangle in the middle of the template saying "your cut out should be in this approximate location, see instructions" then the instructions actually mention this, that would be helpful.
I'm still dirty about it.... Good news though, at least my flywheel issues have been sorted.
Turbo came out this afternoon to make way for a better item
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psdqz1rvzd.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psh71b2gnu.jpg
New v's old intake pipework :D
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psm23fkchi.jpg
I'll start on removing the injector pump after dinner.
It will require extra gaskets/ o-rings but removing the intake manifold and vac pump will make your life a lot easier for pump removal. Once you get the intake manifold you can leave the injector lines grouped together and just undo them at the injector and pump ends.
I'm not quite sure what to expect. I've heard everything from just take the pump off, to pulling the radiator out and just about everything else on the drivers side of the block..
The tcv and vac pump make it near impossible to get to the bottom nut on the injector pump unless you get creative with some bending and welding to make a custom 12mm spanner.
Radiator out will make it easier to access the ip gear as you will need to use a puller to get the gear off the shaft. Unless you can get a slim style puller. Make sure you align the timing marks prior to removal.
Its easier to remove the lines as they just get in the way when trying to pull the pump back off the studs and up and out.
I've read many times that there's 2 longer bolts that hold the ip timing cover on and you can use these to pull the ip timing gear off.
I got to remember how this bugger goes back together. Latest info is my gear is being air freighted out of Perth on Monday.
Having 2nd thought's about doing the injector pump by myself :confused::confused::confused: just not feeling confident...
So in an act of true procrastination I installed my airbox and painted the panel on the back door that works the auto wheel carrier swing arm :o Also test fitted the pipework for the turbo, all good.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psbkg9uj1d.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psu38ch79b.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psynkurfk2.jpg
Is the outlet on that air box 4inch mate? I also assume it fits in nice where the oem filter is and the battery can stay where it is?
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Yes mate, it's 4" in and out. I've had to move nothing to get it in there, the battery will slip into it's original spot no problems. Pipework essentially misses everything, well nothing that can't be fixed in 30 seconds or less.
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Should of read this bit first...lol
I'll be following your thread mate as I'm starting a similar thing with mine.
Time for an update. Finally after 3 months my UFI gear has turned up, hoping it's worth the wait as it hasn't really been a smooth process getting to here, but anyway lets put that behind us and concentrate on going forward.
first up, new style 18g turbo
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psmpbmi9sc.jpg
Followed by a 250hp 12mm pump (nice clear pic through the plastic bag ....)
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psvuuisk96.jpg
Some new squirters
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psogs2wwld.jpg
and a UFI clutch to hold it all together
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psvf1tbz1u.jpg
Just waiting on the flywheel now which will look something like this
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3qwzmcy4.jpg
It was definitely a shame the turbo had some slight damage to it on the front lip
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pswgoy7vo2.jpg
Probably occured during transport and UFI could definitely package them better, especially after such the long wait. All impressive looking gear though. Anyway, quickly tidied up the front lip and went about installing the turbo.
I had already removed the old POS turbo and the wagon has been sitting there eagerly awaiting this install. First up I noticed 2 unpluged coolant ports in the turbo, 1 on each side.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pswe2lcbl4.jpg
These are from the turbos previous life, are not required on the TD42Ti and are just left exactly like this.
Tme to lift it in and begin bolting it up, next problem, the outlet pipe hits the exhaust manifold and won't let the turbo bolt up.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psccgynwjs.jpg
So I loosen the centre clamp and rotate the front of the turbo so it clears the manifold, also allows the actuator to work freely and straight. Now to do the nuts up, what a PITA, the front two are easy, the back inside one is not too bad but the front inide one is there to test your patients.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pst2wed4pv.jpg
Next up was to bolt up the exhaust, at first I didn't think it was going to line up, but it did, mostly. TIP. Put the bolts in the dump pipe first as it's difficult (impossible) to get the inside bolt in from the top once everything is in position.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psgg4dvk9f.jpg
Now for the oil line. I screwed the adaptor into the block first then added the line to the turbo, another PIA job. I ground down a 9/16 spanner to do it. Added some of Caltex's finest Dello 400 to the oil line then screwed the other end into the block. Added the EGT probe and job done.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96e4i6sq.jpg
Now it's time to start adding the intake pipework. Man these things were NOT designed for 4" intakes, anyway trial fitted it and it kinda fits. I will need to mod the heat shield as well.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ryclpaj.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2iknjba4.jpg
So looking forward to firing this thing up again and diving it.
I'm sorry but the price your paying for that regardless of its transport damage receiving a product with that damage is a bit sad. Especially when you are approaching 3k for it.
The red actuator mate how does the grind job on it look?
That looks like it has taken a huge hit, personally I would sand/grind whatever, any traces of a square sharp edges and burrsQuote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Edit, thats if you dont get another one
It certainly pissed me off and I did expect better from them, the packaging was quite frankly under done. Just wrapped in a few layers of bubble wrap and chucked in a big cardboard box with the pump, which was similarly wrapped. But to be honest, it doesn't affect it's performance, you can't see it and I just don't have the time or patients waiting another couple of weeks to frieght it back and forthe to WA to get fixed. I need the car working by a certain date and that will be with or without some of this gear in. When i ordered I was told 3-4 weeks max, which gave me about 15 weeks contigency in time before I really needed the car and here I am in week 13 insrtalling this stuff during the night... Didn't notice anything untoward with the red actuator.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I did remove all the raised and rough edges and smoothed it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
I think I had a conversation with you about this didnt I :p
They do work well mate. It will be a huge step up from where you were especially once you get that pump on. Just come for a trip to qld and ill throw the pump on lol.
Yes you did.
I would happily come for a drive up your way if I had the time. There's a guy just under an hour south of where I am that has a serious diesel injection business and is venturing into the world of Patrols. I know him through one of the other forums I'm on. He can change the pump for me pretty economically and when I told him what it is and has, he was happy to run it up on his dyno for nics, no doubt an opportuity to compare his in house developments, so could be a win win.
Ok, the Rocket mobile is running again.
Installed the heat shield over the exhaust mainifold, it need a tweek here and there to suit the new turbo and pipework. I wasn't completely happy with the way the intake pipe work was sitting, it was too close ie: touching the exhaust manifold, not good. After a few google searches I notoce most run the wiring loom under the intake pipe, I did this and all good, fits much better now.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psifoqu1vx.jpg
Preceeded to test fit up the rest of the pipe work and intercooler
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psztef539q.jpg
The cooler then came off and I Sikaflexed at 50 deg C thermo swithch to the back of the cooler which the fan will run through
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psqzkayzzo.jpg
Next step was to replace the injectors, set about getting them out. Those little rubber brackets are a royal PITA, then I managed to get the spill tube off in 1 piece, Big win for the novice.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psumn8kpow.jpg
Then the injectors out, No. 1 injector with the wire on it required a special tool, so off to Supercheap I go, pick up a 22mm deep socket and preceeded to chop it up, worked a treat.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psrazcd1m3.jpg
Out with the old, then spent the best part of the next 45 minutes knealing on the radiator support panel, rocker cover and EGR valve trying to fish out those bloody injector washers, luckily none of them were stuck so it was just a bit fiddley. I was using a little screwdriver that I bent the tip over on. Thinking how the bloody hell am I going to get the new washers in the right way up, then it dawned on me. A set of external circlip pliers. Just hold the washers from the inside, put them in the hole and let them go, soo easy, got them all in in about 2 mins if that. Definite tip for getting the old ones out.
New injectors in.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psbibgytxm.jpg
All the fuel lines in, including a new spill tube.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psdgezdtu9.jpg
Intercooler back on and batteries in, then ready to start it.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psesaydklq.jpg
Please tell me you bled the lines before refitting the intercooler?
Didn't need to bleed it at all, it fired up straight away and idled like a gem, never sounded so good or smooth since I've had it.