I'm really interested to hear from anyone who has tried that Evans waterless coolant.
That ship is expensive but would love to get any feedback?
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I'm really interested to hear from anyone who has tried that Evans waterless coolant.
That ship is expensive but would love to get any feedback?
Well don't be shy. Jump in and try...Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
I have read about it but would worry that if you did stake a radiator or something in the bush and lost it, can you go back to water to get out of trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
Just saw the ad on SBS and was going to post but you beat me to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
there are three different types, My BIL used backhoe coolant in his 302 powered 75s ute.
not sure how it went as we all went down the John Bennet road and all was cured
http://www.evanscoolants.com/evans_w...ants_faqs.html
just doing some searching and found most prefer to use Redline water wetter and water
to keep temps down, as Evans raises your temps slightly, including oil temps
I thought it was just to prevent corrosion, not improve cooling efficiency.Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
It would lift your boiling point ,plus give you Anti freeze.
as well as what you said anti corrosion, more a 3 in 1
So, just for interests sake, I pulled the thermo coupling off my transmission pan, with the idea of attaching it in different places around the engine bay to try and gauge just how hot the engine bay gets compared to the the second thermo coupling which is mounted on the thermostat housing. The temps are being monitored from the cab via the Engine Watchdog.
So far, the bracket holding the start battery down regularly gets into the 70 degrees celsius range and seems to be generally around ten degrees less than the thermostat housing under the varying driving conditions and temps.
More to follow...
I did a bit of a test when I raised the back of the bonnet on some spacers. It is simple to do
Just tape some bits of wool about 4 inches (10cm for those younger than 40) to the bonnet near the gap.
On My Mk the air flow was down not up!
It follows that the air was going out underneath as happens with formule 1 fairing.
It also follows that means less air through the radiator. as the evil twin suggests.
I fitted twin falcon electric fans with little improvement.
Ended up fitting a 3 core radiator and that has made it better but it is still not happy in LowLow in the bush on a hot day.
It is the low speed stuff where mine gets hot as well. I reckon the lifting of the bonnet at the rear would work at low speed, but not at higher speeds due to the well documented pressure differences at the base of the windscreen.
Venting of the bonnet seems to be an option for constant low-speed heat issues, but I'll try and get a semi-decent understanding of my engine bay temps before making any radical decision on bonnet venting though. Bonnet venting at high speed is also very effective if the vents are placed correctly in the low pressure zones.
I currently have the thermocouple attached to the front of the Top Mount Intercooler, directly above the engine. Temps here also similarly rise into the mid-70's at low speeds or idle, but drop a lot faster when on the move. When driving, the temps typically sit anywhere from 15 - 20C lower than the top of the Thermostat, and probably 5 to 10 degrees lower than the battery area. eg. if my Thermostat is sitting on a constant 80C, then the front mount of the intercooler can be anywhere from 60-65C. I assume this is due to the amount of air flowing through it when moving.
Next I will move the thermocouple over to the top of the air-box, or perhaps behind the radiator overflow reservoir on the passengers side.
I find it hard to believe only one patrol here is suffering from "HEAT BLOCK" after all the problems I had with my 350 chev troopy in a triangle shaped engine bay, Rob Kay from ARB Northern even made a perspex bonnet to check air flow.
To the best of my knowledge I think your problem is your radiator.
all the others with the 6.5 chev have had teething problems but nothing like you are having.
if fitting the vents on the bonnet dont help Id be looking seriously at a new radiator fan set up.
Even the fan can make a huge difference , I fitted a steel 5 blade,, noisey as but cooled down the motor
6 blade plastic was OK and the OE clutch fan worked well also, then you need to have the shroud properly made with the fan
in the right position in with the shroud a little out and youll have problems.
Trust me Ive spent thousands of $$$$ and many different set ups getting it right over many years
it was a work in progress