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Your post is exactly what I am trying to get across... Coolant Temp is not significant in the CRD ECU fuel maps when the engine is at operating temp.
Coolant temp is only a factor when the engine is below operating temperature as part of the pollution management protocol primarily to reduce NOX emmissions
they dont explain who's stupid idea it was to have this feature..........Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007;569349
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of a freakin' hot day - driving down the road (yes towing a Van) the Air Con cuts out because the engine coolant is too hot.........
well suck me........
dont worry about building a barely adequate cooling system to start with Mr Nissan - I mean, YOU put a radiator for the Air Con in front of the Engine radiator and stick a dirty great thermo fan in front of that..........
just make the passengers and Driver melt with cabin temps of 37* so you can try and "bleed off" some engine temps............
only car I have EVER owned that turns the aircon off (cause you DONT really need it) when it gets too hot
build the freaking thing better ya tosser Mr Nissan..............
(and NO, I did NOT have it flat to the floor - or I would have been doing probably 120-130kms per hour...................)
ROFL... we do have a "Whats made me angry thread" you know.
You probably just need a good radiator clean out to remove any sludge build up in the bottom section where the sensor is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigcol
On a efi the ecu uses a O2 sensor I have not played around with a zd so I'm not sure what it uses but you did say you disagreed that the coolant temp does play a role, I never said up to or during NOT I said simply it was significant bacuse it affected timing and duration of injection and compared it to carby and efi coz the gq td has no ecu where the zd does and meant it as the coolant temp sensor does not play a major role on the td42, unless of course you're talking the td42ti then thats a different story lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
What does the zd use at NOT ??
Lol! All manufacturers have this feature to prevent you from blaming their design when you coock your motor after it has over heated. All its meant to do is take a load off the motor to help cool it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigcol
A couple of weeks ago I was at a b'day in the high country and my radiator was blocked so my trol was overheating so on a 35* day I had the heater on flat out to control my water temps.... to say my mrs was impressed was an understatement hahahah
The sensore is on the lower thermostat housing where the bottom hose connects to the motor, in between it and the exhaust. On petrols they have a thermal fan switch on the side of bottom hose tank which kicks in the auxiliary fan when the engine over heatsQuote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
not driven many cars then have you....................Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007
I drove through the Pilbarra with a 20' caravan in the late 80's and early 90's for about 3 years....... weight was about 2.5t
towed it with a VJ Valiant (318).... never overheated, aircon never went out
also towed it with
an XC GXL wagon (351) funny it never over heated and the aircon never went out
a HQ Premier sedan (202) never over heated, aircon never went out
another van I used to own in the late 90's
towed it with a 60 series - not over heating - aircon worked
ZH Fairlaine - no over heating, aircon worked
47 series troopy - no over heating - aircon working
GQ wagon TB42 towing 2t camper - over heats and aircon cuts out
NA LTD (4.0l) - towing same van - well look at that - no over heating and aircon stays on..........
do you see a patten - or do you want me to put up more of MY experience........
the cooling system on the td42 is crap right from the box - barely adequate, and prone to constant fiddling (like a freaking landrover...........)just to make it work
I just hope the Y62 has a better cooling system
when you are touring and towing (as I do) you want something thats not just capable of doing its job, but something that works without a worry
yes the days in question when my TD42 overheated it was over 40* - and it was only 9.30am - so yes the day was getting hot as we traveled
I believe my cooling system is trying to work to its best - its just not
trust me when I say - I have spend a fortune on trying to sort this problem - but you cannot fix stupid design......................
XC 351 wagon now there is a classic with the two way tail gate
Zh Fairlane another beauty and old reliable a HQ Prem.
all from my vintage and cant for the life in me remember where they put the sensor, rlmao
KISS at its best
Might be gobal warming as they say its hotter these days Ha Ha
but in my book 40 is 40
sorry for the rantings..............
just gets sooo frustrating when it happens (and it shouldn't................)
apologies to Bloodyaussie for the LARGE hijack
its not that it makes me angry, just so damn frustratingQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
and when your wife is a staunch Tojo fan (with a 100series Kakadu) - makes for interesting comments about the lack of Aircon when its hot.............................
Thought I'd jump in with my two cents regarding the radiator issue ( not overly knowledgable about cars ) but am refrigeration mech by trade. Do these radiator manufacturers put a "K" (temp difference) rating on the spec sheets for their products? I.e. Hypothetically A stock item may get A 20 degree TD on a day of a certain temp however a superior rad is capable of 30 degrees on the same day. This would make it a lot easier to select an item once you know what ambients your driving in, what load you expect and what operating temp you want.
I looked into the cooling system on my previous car (a Toyota surf) don't laugh!
It was my understanding that when started and cold the tstat would sit closed and hold the coolant in the engine back, water pump would still run but cavitate as it can push the coolant anywhere, once at temp the coolant starts to move around the system at varying rates dependant on where the tstat is sitting. (The tx valve in an aircon works like this but on a pressure basis and is constantly opening and closing)
These Toyota gauges (factory) were also fitted with a Zener diode in circuit which would oppose the change in resistance of the temp sensor to stop the gauge hunting around and unhappy customers returning to the dealership again and again with nuisance complaints. This of course means once it does move the engine is quite hot.
Must say I agree with nissannewby about low temps = bad. Especially on older diesels as I thought it could lead to blow by and issues like glazed bores??
I was also told not to sit for 15 minutes warming my patrol up but to give it 10-20secs and just drive it gingerly till up to temp.
WOW, sorry for the essay but just my 10 cents, potsy.
right oh........
time for an update on my over heating (again, apologies to Bloodyaussie)
went to Joondalup 4x4 yesterday for them to have a look at what could possibly be wrongQuote:
Originally Posted by Bigcol
well now........
is it my rad........remember, it was flushed Xmas 2013 - they took it out and back flushed it - lots of scale I was told.........
is it my thermostat..........old thermostat marked at 85* - didnt open untill 92* and never fully opened even at 110* - temp probe in water bench test
is it my water pump.........was an after market brand, compared to new Nissan one - slightly larger fins on the impellor from Mr Nissan
is it my Viscus fan...........was not working properly - pulled apart, small valve for oil movement was "jammed / stuck" shut- replaced with new anyway
is it the fan itself.............one small-ish crack, apart from that and dirty - looked ok
while the radiator was out, they also blew the Aircon rad out (from engine side) was lots and lots of dust and dirt and leaves came out
now have to hook up the Van and go for a drive to see if it is alot better, hopefully this weekend go for a drive and find out
again, sorry for the highjack Bloodyaussie