Mafless tune on the commy makes her suck more juice lol
tappin from tassie
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Mafless tune on the commy makes her suck more juice lol
tappin from tassie
Was just chatting a bloke who did that on his SSQuote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Sharen had it done to her CRD and was very impressed
not sure if the new owner thinks the same king-ady1
Pretty common for petrol road cars. I wonder what the pros and cons would be for a diesel?Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
tappin from tassie
Is anyone still here?
I've read the majority of the posts here to understand whats going on, however still a little unsure. I've got a Nissan Y62 with 300k+ mileage. I experienced losing power on the highway where my engine made a noise of something spraying in the engine, acceleration was happening but very off. The car then would drive at 4k rpm only and experience the most unusual gear change with a jolt. There is a light whine in the engine and then it continued to drive below 2k rpm and would rumble and shake a little at a stalled position when in neutral.
Mind you, I was low on fuel when this occurred.
Any thoughts?
I was considering the MAF sensor, the fuel injectors/fuel pump (but when I had damaged before my fuel pump, the car lost all power - so unlikely I'd believe).
It might be best to start a new thread mate. You might get a bit more attention and be able to problem solve one step at a timeQuote:
Originally Posted by Miral
>>>tappin from tassie
Hi Guys, Bit of a thread dig but here goes.
My 05 ZD30 feels very sjow so I checked the maf volts as per post 1 and got the following.
term 2 IGN on, unplugged 12.85V (battery is 12.7v??)
term 3 IGN off 0.03v
term 4 Running from idle to 4000 RPM 1.9 to 4v
The thing that concerns me is term 3 as its supposed to be zero.
Any ideas please, is the maf stuffed?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for a really useful thread. Cleaned the MAF today.
Help i am from venezuela i need this maf 22680VC201 in my country is hard find this part i have a friend on melboure her comming to venezuela on may 28 i need help to find this part and best price
@mudski
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I don't think Mudski stocks them Hodgey, plenty of other parts though on his Ebay shop! 'Northern 4x4'
G'day Martin, tell your friend that 'PatrolApart' in Lilydale, Melbourne, will be able to help you out.Quote:
Originally Posted by martingomez65
Here is their website mate, give them a call on Monday morning: http://patrolapart.com.au/
Just used your code Martin on their website and it does look like genuine Nissan ones are in stock ready: http://patrolapart.com.au/product-se...iation%5B1%5D=
He all, apologies for my lack of mechanical knowledge, Im using this forum and others to learn what I can, anyway the GU RD2.8 is blowing heaps of black smoke when under load and Ive read cleaning the MAF may assist in reducing this smoke. So Ive had a go at taking the MAF out but am not sure if I have to undo the 4 screws on the plate the electrical plug plugs into or spray the MAF cleaner straight onto the what looks like a sensor that you see when looking up the pipe from the engine side of the air box?
The other question I have is do I need to check voltages on the MAF? What does this tell me? If so (sounding real dumb now), can anyone give me a brief explanation on how to use the mutlimetre to do this??
Thanks in advance.
Attachment 74117 Attachment 74118
works very well i do mine every service but have a new gen one ready to go in once i do my injector pump
Thanks Tony for the information :)
Jeez we all miss you Tony (YNOT)
I was given a 1996 Patrol GQ Dual fuel recently which has done 400k.
It had a service and ran well on both fuels. The car was then unused for a few months and when restarted runs fine on LPG, starts and idles well on petrol but just wont run, it splutters and backfires.
Could this be the AFM? Any ideas? Apologies for my ignorance.
Also, I left the car idling on Petrol for half an hour to see if it would 'clear' but it sprung a big fuel leak. I don't have anywhere to work on the car or any tools at the moment so I had to give it to auto mechanic to fix the leak. They said two fuel pipes had split and needed to be replaced. Coincidence / blocked fuel filter?
Thanks for any advice.
Hi all my sons tb45e 1999 model stopped sparking when he snapped wires to his maf. He repaired wires but thinks he connected them wrongly(now in right locations) but still no spark. When he try’s to start you can hear a buzzing sound from the ecm area. Any help/ info would be appreciated thanks.
HELP NEEDED GUYS
Do i have to Unplugged the battery first before i remove the maf sensor to be cleaned? or i have to remove the maf sensor first and clean it then before putting it back in thats the time i have to unplugged the battery? thanks
Yes mate all ya have to do is disconnect battery for 30 odd minutes before refitting dry maf..Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Five
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Very fair question mate, keen to learn also!
Assuming the ignition is offski should in my nuffy theory be fine, although I did nearly set a 1961 model 6v VW beetle alight installing a fully sic FM/AM radio headset.
If in doubt, and or welding aboard, disconnect has always been my safe go to for the added extra 2 minutes work !
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Whoops, wrong answer again :-)
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MAF sensor clean. Am I doing it wrong, always only just unplug elec connector, remove sensor, give it a squirt, let it dry and then just put it back in / connect and go. No problems to my knowledge.
ECU's are constantly learning and adjusting some engine sensor and operating conditions but it isn't an instantaneous process more a running average sort of deal.
If you disco the battery for 30 minutes it forces the ECU to immediately start to go thru a relearn process for adjusting individual engine parameters starting from factory or default ECU settings.
IE the ECU starts from factory trim and ends up at its new trim
If you don't disco the battery and only unplug and clean the MAF then the ECU maintains its existing trim settings and adjusts its trim starting from that point rather than default.
IE the ECU starts from the prev trim and ends at its new trim
FWIW I never bothered forcing a relearn unless I changed the MAF or the MAF was filthy and/or threw codes prior to cleaning as IMHO a relatively clean and functioning MAF won't affect ECU trim all that much after a clean so trim is probably closer to existing than defult.
Unless you are operating in really grotty environments or getting a lot of Turbo Surge blowing oil film back over the MAF a clean every 30 to 40 thousand K's or so is more than adequate for a normally functioning engine and IMHO the ECU doesn't need a forced relearn
Far bit of road dust around home, guess do maintain air filtration thru life though. Probably has paid off in line with your comment. First 80 thou ks did not go near MAF but have clean every 10 thou ks since (all up 160 thou ks since new veh).
Then again have had the battery out many times for mods..hahaha
So went to test my maf today and mine does not match any listed here. I have a 6 pin plug with 5 wires. It has nothing in the first pin and then its white, yellow with blue line, yellow with blue line, pink, black. Any ideas on how to test this?? 07 crd auto