Just for clarification what are the greases I need to do the job?
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Just for clarification what are the greases I need to do the job?
What are the parts that I need to mark so they go on the same way next time?
Great bit of info here and finally found out why there are two circlip grooves..
Quote
"Note there are 2 groove on the axle. The circlip will fit into that groove. The inside groove is used when you have auto hubs and the groove near the end of the axle is used when you have manual hubs."
I had just pulled the drivers side apart - first time since we have had the vehicle and it has manual hubs and the previous person who pulled it apart had put the circlip in the auto hub groove.
What I would like to know it how do you dismantle the manual hub. The manual shows a circlip...but where?
Pictures attached
Attachment 80199
Attachment 80200
Hi mate, why do you want to put the hub down further than that? you should be able to clean it out with a degreaser from there and then repack it without pulling it down further.
Thought I was missing something. The exploded diagram at the start of this thread shows some sort of snap ring.
As you can see this one has had water in it at some stage of its life but is still works.
As you say, clean with degreaser (done that) and repack.
Thanks Trevor
Hey Mud Runner
Been a while since we last chatted
Believe it or not I’ve finally got around to putting back together my GQ front end rebuild...
1 thing mate, I asked you a little while back about the steering stop bolt...
You mentioned that it’s in the front facing part of the swivel hub scraper seal & you took some pics etc & showed your vehicle for me to see.
Now I’ve looked at the manual on page 1 but shows the locking nut on the rear facing of the swivel hub scraper seal (you can tell which side by the steering arm bolt hole)
I’m confused LOL
I think it’s just a breakdown of the hub mate, I don’t think there’s any reason to pull them apart as I doubt (& I’m only guessing) there are any serviceable parts inside the hub.
Pour degreaser inside the hub, let it sit over night (or for a long little while at least), put your hand over the top of it (degreaser still full) & shake it vigorously to clean everything out... dump the degreaser from the hub, spray some CRC or WD40 so it can penetrate the crevices nicely, dump that out too, add some grease to it & on the CV joint too - I don’t think you need to pack it crazy like a bearing (but I could be wrong about that too)
High temperature bearing grease on all your wheel bearings
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...spheerol-htb-2
Molybdenum type grease for everything else included the birfield joint (the big knuckle bearing thing on the CV joint/axle) & the upper n lower kingpin bearings
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...rol-lmm-grease
@MudRunnerTD
Is diff oil meant to leak from kingpins if loosened?
Just done my entire front end, still getting death wobbles & it’s driving me nuts...
Anyhow thought I’d remove the shims just in case they were the cause, diff oil pouring out...
Back to the drawing board.....
Found these babies tho.... just waiting on them.
https://www.superiorengineering.com....iesel4.2%2C2.8
Thanks for that but mudski had also pointed me in the right direction
See here
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...today!/page943
I was lucky a few sharp blows on some timber and the pins came out
Cheers Trevor
Greeting nissanpatrol.com.au. I’m Mario, from the Philippines. Thanks for approving my application to join.
Just want to say thank you to @MudRunnerTD for this thread. I just did my front end. It was a fun project for this quarantine time (here in our part of the world). I haven’t had a chance to drive it yet, but will do soon. Hope things go well.
Thanks again.
Hi guys,
Just did the passenger side swivel hub gaskets seals and new kingpin bearings. The hub seals and wheel bearings looked pretty nice and straight so repacked with grease and, while I was there, replaced the brake rotor and pads. That's on my RHD UK, 2003 GR Y61 (or GU Y61). Followed these gold mine instructions and everything was as easy as saying hello. So big thanks to the author of this thread :). Hopefully will do the drivers side tomorrow and the rear discs and pad next week end.
Now, when I removed the kingpins, I messed up at some point and lost the bottom adjusting shim. Dunno if I'd thrown it in the bin with some greasy paper towels or what but I just couldn't find it, and it drove me crazy. So I ended up with only one left... So I decided to fit both kingpins without the shims. Obviously, will have to fit the drivers side without those shims for "good" balance. Other than that, I guess I did everything "right". Question is: will that affect in anyway the driving as there will be no shims after the full rebuild?
Thanks guys for bringing some light here!
Leave them as you found them if you can. But you are putting in new king pin bearings so the shims required could well be different now anyway.
I would leave the others as you find them and after you have it back together just ensure the wheel turns without restriction. The possibility is that removing the shim may make the King pin bearing tighter clamped down so the steering will be heavier.
Some take out a shim if the get the dreaded wheel wobble to some success.
Hope that helps.
I'm half way of rebuilding the drivers side, managed to remove everything but was harder though. Looks like this side was never been touched before. Snapped the abs sensor bolt but managed to remove the sensor without damage. Will need to remove the thread bit left in the knuckle. The swivel hub itself is nasty inside with lots of grease and muddy mix.
Lots of work ahead tomorrow.
In the mean time, while I finished fitting the nearside I turned the troll back to get the offside near the kerb (working in front of me house lol). But I could already feel a huge improvement while turning the steering wheel and that is with the passenger side wheel bearing completely loose. When I raised the wheel off the road and checked the wheel, there was a big play when moving the wheel top to bottom. So now parts are removed and now need to get rid of that rust and make it again again nice and clean.
Will update to tell how things went after a test drive on the highway and see if it's wobble free without shims. Cheers
So I thought I would add these pics to this thread. Currently doing front wheel bearings only on the GUIV. I bought the bearings from the 4WD Shed off ebay. They came with a seal too.
The back seal gets destroyed when removing so was keen to get them too. Well this is the seal that turned up.....
It seems that at some point some smart bloke have merged to 2 seals needed into 1!!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/04/255.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/04/256.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/04/257.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/04/258.jpg
The new seal may well be 2 seals conveniently pressed into each other but I'm not going to risk splitting them for the sake of confirming its 1 or 2. This is an upgrade.
Also... those bloody M4 screws would have to be the Softest metal I have ever found in a screw. I will swap them out for some M4 Allen key jobs only because I have some. M4 x 10mm is what you need and a Phillips Head would be great.
Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
Hey MudRunnerTD anymore updates on this rebuild Im looking to go ahead have all the gear ready to go:)
Was told to use Molly grease for axle and king pin bearings since its all together inside the hub and use High Temp for wheels bearings if this is correct that means to use 2 different grease so did you use your grease Gadget on both switched out grease in between?
Ok cool exactly what I did, also would you chance both side if only one side was leaking, I bought a full kit thinking I should keep as a spare .
That thing is a beaut