Mate I've got and used those heads and no matter what once released expect one if not all blades to break regardless of what you hit, you can get replacements but IMO just use em till you run out of blades and chuck em out lol
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Pig hunters be aware always have a follow up shot ready to go and or your knife by your side not in your bag. They are often underestimated as game and can be very dangerous
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
Or a quick follow up arrow.....
No knife or sidearm helped these idiots lol !: http://youtu.be/2g4SaLGB98c
Why??? I understand hunting for feral animals and or food but this is just for money really and a trophy
Yeah I cant stand those so called hunts.... I dont care about what rational they put on it the dicks that go high five each other over a kill like that.
No skills needed there just plane cock heads
They almost look like muzzy broad heads.. But here are the ones I have
Edit: ok maybe not muzzy here are some of there replacement blades and heads http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/...29258adc3ace0e
Would you be looking at purchasing 300 of them ?? Lol http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-...983653727.html
Yup, thats them. Same shape blade as mine. 300 o_O buggah
Seeking opinions on this scope please. Worthwhile for bunnies or a waste of money? Does the laser automatically point at where the scope is adjusted to or does it require separate adjustment?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171022071...84.m1423.l2649
No idea about the optical scope but in relation to the laser, I use a laser tape measure device (~3mm@100m) for measuring/quoting weekly and in my experience the laser dot can get lost in textures very easily, for me its the texture of brick walls but I imagine fur and grass would be even worse?
Unless at night I would think it world be next to useless and if the laser acts as the reticle it would be annoying to run out of battery
Lower quantity http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-...974772885.html
With scopes you really do get what you pay for. If you are shooting rabbits a fixed scope at 3 or 4 x magnification is fine.
As you a using a air rifle now I would buy a purpose built air rifle scope as the way air rifles work they are prone to destroying scopes. Try
https://www.usedguns.com.au
For cheap second hand stuff
Nice site they're even selling the gun id like lol http://m.usedguns.com.au/Product_Desc.aspx?Pid=39087
Interesting that you say that. But why is it so?
I have put the 6x40 scope off my Ruger onto the air rifle & have already experienced some ‘issues’.
No amount of tightening the scope onto the ‘dovetail rail’ would stop it moving backward a tad on every shot. It was a royal PIA yesterday when trying to sight it in. Twice I thought I was about ’there’ & all of a sudden I was way off target again. On each occasion the rear scope mount had completely come off the rail. In the end in desperation I removed the rail & drilled & tapped it & put in a stainless screw so that it’s head prevents the rearward movement. This has been effective & I am now able to hit a small pill bottle at 25+ metres. Also got two bunnies today. Bunny pie for tea tomorrow night!
I’m guessing that air rifle specific scopes must have something to do with the ’shock’ which was causing my scope to move? I don’t really understand this ‘shock’ though, it’s not like the air rifle has any recoil/kick. So how do the air rifle scopes differ?
EDIT. In answer to my own question ..... http://www.lasc.us/rangingshotrifleairgunscopes.htm
I'm very fond of eating rabbit!
It's not so much recoil as you would get with regular fire arms which is a push back but with a air rifle the spring that's used is more violent
From the ssaa web site.
Scopes for air rifles
Often regarded as little more than toys, air rifles nevertheless have some special requirements when it comes to scopes. Though underpowered by rimfire or centrefire standards, both spring piston and gas spring air rifles have a unique, two-stage recoil.
When the rifle is fired there is a backward recoil effect that is immediately followed by a snapping forward motion. Combined with the vibrations produced by powerful springs, this places enormous stress on both scope and mounts, even though the felt recoil is negligible.
Scopes designed for air rifles have their lenses and reticule braced front and rear to ensure recoil doesn’t shake them loose. Scopes designed for rimfire and centrefire rifles are generally only braced at the rear; just one reason why even good quality scopes will eventually be rattled to pieces when mounted on an air rifle.
On top of this, air rifles are generally sighted in for relatively short distances, perhaps as little as ten metres. Many scopes won’t focus that closely, especially fixed powers - one of the main reasons that the majority of air rifle scopes have adjustable objective lenses.
Linked to short-range use is the relatively high trajectory that air rifle pellets have between muzzle and target. This demands an elevation bias that gives more up than down adjustment and does away with the need to shim mounts to gain the elevation required to make the shots print to the designated point of aim.
Finally, air rifle scopes require air rifle mounts. Such mounts generally have recoil stops built in to prevent the mounts from shifting. And, though it should go without saying, scope rings must be properly tightened with a properly fitting wrench or screwdriver to ensure the scope can’t slide within the rings.
Air rifle scopes are produced by a number of companies including Beeman, Tasco, Lynx, Bushnell, Simmons and Leupold - and I’ve no doubt there are others. Ask your favourite dealer what catalogues he has available. Air rifle scopes range from simple fixed power models through to quite expensive variables such as the Beeman Bushnell 6-24X 40mm, which was obviously designed for silhouette and target work.
Gun exchange is having a sale macca86 incase you didn't know http://www.qldgunexchange.com/QGEWeb/home.seam
Yes I'm aware of the sale but I'll be on my hunting tip that weekend! I've got the wife going in to get me a hard case fir my fire arms. And I'll get my father to buy ammo for me
Nothing like a good day of shooting. I have a mate that lets me use his 10 acres up in Jamison to go deer hunting. It has a 6 bunk-bed setup, backs onto state forest and right on the Goulburn river.
I never mix shooting with a boys weekend away so it's either full on shooting or full on drinking :trink13:
Missed out last weekend for a shoot so hope to go in the next few weeks? If not will be a piss up weekend :)
Here is the last kill.
Nice bit of venison!
I am just waiting for a mate to get here then we are going out after some rabbits/foxs.
Here are some lucky Strzelecki foxes
I'm happy with my shooting now ready to hunt
Pic 1 5 shots of 22/250 55gn @100m
Pic 2 3 shots of 7mm rem mag 150gn @ 100m
Pic 3 5 shots of 22 42gn @ 50m
The 22 does shoot better but the wind took its toll on it today
The 7mm is a bit high on purpose as at 200m it should be the same distance below the centre
As a size reference the centre dot to the second ring is 25mm
Good to hear there was no issue with the 22 after last weekend
Would have been a faulty round I put 30 through it today with out cleaning it even tried rapid fire groups of 5 and not one issue with it.
G'day all. I haven't owned rifles for over a decade. I met up with an old mate who has recently got his gun licence and is in the market for a rifle for rabbit, fox and vermin in general. He was asking my advice on which rifle is better and /or more economical to run. A .22 magnum or a hmr .17, 9, (if I remember correctly). I liked the 22, and have never used the.17. I told him about you blokes and that I would ask you for your thoughts on which is the better choice. Thanks in advance. Fire away...
love my .17hmr over my 22 anyday,in saying that I have a model 1a Lithgow single shot open sites..shoots straight as a dye(or whatever)my .17 will hit anything within 100mtrs,good for foxes cats and bunny's..have hit shags at over 200mtrs but that's just arse as there good for about 150 meters..i have a Marlin.17HMR but I have heard the savage mark2 with an ......acu-trigger?is the better option.
After most of my shots I like to check for no signs of breathing patterns.
I'm sure you guys can group and zero and by no means is the following meant to be showing off or being a smart alec. For those that don't know I have made a drawing and try to explain. It's a rough and ready way.
Decide at what range you want to be zeroed at. Remember if you are spot on at 100 metres you will be significantly higher or lower at other range distances due to trajectory.
Start by firing two warmer rounds down the barrel.
Now, using the same point of aim, doesn't matter where on the target as long as it's the same point of aim (poa), in this example the black dot on the lower part of the orange dot. Fire 5 rounds at the poa.
With some luck the 5 shot group should be pretty tight. If not keep trying, you don't need a wild shot high, low etc to stuff the grouping.
Once comfortable with your group sizing, you need to determine your mean point of impact (mpoi), to do this draw a verticle line down your left and right shots and a horizontal line over your high and low shots. Draw a X through the box created as in my red lines and where the cross middle is , is called the mpoi. The mpoi needs to be adjusted across to your poa. This might be 100mm right and 25mm low.
Your open sight or scope adjustments tell you 1 click equals 12mm for example so work out how many clicks to adjust as needed.
Fire another 5 round group and if all went well it should be firing your mpoi group over the poa.
This is the simply version and does not take into account weather or firers human factors of breathing, squeeze technique etc etc.
Hope this helps.....it's been a while, so if I forgot something, apologies.