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Just take the auto locking mechanism out which will look like post 39Quote:
Originally Posted by SKID
You should not need 2 put anything back in
Not 100% sure with the GU's but with my GQ the Locking mechanism was mounted on the end of the axle instead of on the hub as shown in the original post. Removing the auto locking mechanism required the fitting of a small spacer to limit axle movement.
I don't need to pry out the part in your pictures as when I took the hubs off they came out separately. No I didn't lock the hubs first, I only found that out after removing them doing the wheel bearings and putting hubs back on and the problem started.... I didn't grease them up as they were already full of grease, So do I simply leave that whole assembly out, or do I pull the guts out of it and put piece pictured in your post back in? Also the eg ring thing was sticking out about 3 mm and with a gentle tap of the hammer it now sits flush, should I also remove the egg ring and re seat it back to where it was? Replacing the brake pads, and doing the wheel bearing up was going so well until I screwed up, any further advice would be appreciated....Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
When people are referring to a circlip "I used the outer part of the auto locking mechanism 2 act as a washer before putting the circlip back on" where is this circlip? I didn't need to pry out the part in your pictures as when I took the hubs off they came out separately with out any force needed....Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
What do I use as a spacer as quoted "fitting of a small spacer to limit axle movement."?
I did this mod in camp last night and it took 10 minutes for both sides.
Blew the hub completely today damn it. Got me out of trouble though.
What ever where you doing 2 cause the hub 2 blow completely Daz?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Hi new here, I feel like you guys are more than knowledgeable to help
I recently done new front inner and outer wheel bearing on my y61 SWB Patrol
All back together and test drive presented a clicking/ ratcheting noise from front hubs, Thought i had installed on correctly but once removed and reinstalled (No force needed to reinstall they were aligned correctly) they still clicked.
Not a nice noise at all.
My guess is to much grease on the bearing side is applying pressure to the hub allowing it to semi engage.
I have removed the auto brake as above and other photos have shown, I pried it out the whole auto assm nothing more nothing less.
I didn't take notice of the position the hub was set to when removing and reinstalling, again no force was required to reinstall (As you would expect due to no auto brake to push on)
NOW I HAVE NO FRONT WHEEL ENGAGEMENT LOL
WHY
Have i reinstalled incorrectly? the 4wd worked fine before I'm not going to consider the diff or transfer at this stage (the front drive shaft is moving when in 4 low but when on a hoist hubs locked I have no power from front diff to front wheels)
I plan on removing hubs and trying again this weekend, I will upload a pic of what i have removed so you guys know I'm not stupid hehe,
Hope someone can pint out what I've done wrong and I can use my once auto hubs as LOCK or UNLOCK (manual) hubs yay
Ben.
Photos
Attachment 87161
Attachment 87162
Attachment 87163
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S0Plk7YscgQuote:
Originally Posted by BENDOVA
Do they click with the front wheels jacked up and by spinning the wheel by hand? If yes unlock one side at a time to see which side its coming from. Are the wheels straight, turned or both, does it happen?