2.5 bottles, so 45ml..
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2.5 bottles, so 45ml..
Yes. Even though its a right PIA to do this procedure. I want to go in smaller increments to see the differences. As even with the 1.5 bottles in there was a difference once the weather was warm enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
When I worked in the transport industry, I used to sell a air operated clutch fan for the prime movers called a Horton fan. They pretty much engaged and disengaged using air and a clutch plate type setup in the hub, all controlled via a water temp switch and a manual override switch.
This would be ideal for our TD's I reckon.
So yesterday was pretty hot here, around 36c or so. The hub was engaged the entire time whilst driving. while I didn't get a chance to get onto the freeway to really test it, I did push it a bit on some hills and the temps seem to be a bit more stable. 75-80c they were. I now have to wait a while until it warms up again here, bloody Melbourne weather, so I can really try it out on the freeway.
Not sure if I'm liking the hub engaged all the time though, its quite noisy, if theres a power loss, its ain't a lot. Time will tell. I still need to wire in my two a/c thermo's on an override switch so I can put them on aswell without the a/c coming on...
Hi flow ordered, tridant tt2028-170.
Will now compare this to a std flow -170.
Tbh I didn't notice any difference from std to high flow, but each motor will have varied results. Just did a good arvo's drive doing deliveries etc etc. Pretty cold here today, around 18c and the temps didn't get over 80c at all. I did find that whilst stationary the water temp would go up about 5c, lol, then once I was moving it would drop. Never did that before. Buuuut, I'm not so sure I'm liking the fan noise. As the hub is now fully engaged. I will wait for another hot day, when ever that may be, go for a highway run and see then. I'm thinking maybe to take the hub off again and remove about 9-10ml of oil from the hub. Just so its not locked entirely. I still have to wire in the two thermo's, which I prolly shoulda done first...
I'm kind of forcing myself to accept the noise because I'm confident it will be good when it gets really hot and I really don't want to empty rad, redo coolant, etc again.
It also makes me drive it a little more gently because the noise makes you think you're revving it out but it hasn't gone past 2000 rpm :)
To remove my rad I also have to remove all the 3mm protection/deflector plates underneath..
Ok, fitted the hiflow Tridant TT2028-170 thermostat yesterday arvo, drove to work back rd 10k@ 90kph then freeway another 10k@ 110kph.
Sat constantly on 77 deg C, Yahooo.
where as before it would of sat min 80c up to 85c.
It was a cooler evening, but that didn't change the previous behavior of 80 + with fluctuating temps.
Also noticed that engine warm up time increased so slightly with new stat but right boot wasn't being pushed at all.
This tridant thermostat is physically the same lengths etc as the std tridant thermostat,
Except for the sensors are a slimmer build, thus allowing greater flow.
From upper base of thermostat frame to lower valve is 35mm & the distance to housing bypass seat is 40mm.
So the lower valve needs to extend 5mm to reduce/cut off the bypass flow.
If this was reduced further by a washer/shim one would expect temps to maybe stabilize further, but engine warm up time would increase.
Chewing it over, over thinking it again lol.
"OVER" reducing the size of bypass passage, even blocking it off altogether may cause a problem, unstable water temps through the engine @ each cold start.
Engine warms as normal, then only cold water from rad is introduced & not a mix of radiator and some recycled warm via bypass.
Is it possible bypass mods cause an undesired increase in temp cycling hot/cold and damage the block or head somehow over the long term?.
Just maybe leaving the bypass alone or minimum mods here is not a bad idea.
I say that as why else would the engineers include a bypass in the first place if it weren't realy needed.
Or is the bypass just a feature for colder climates that upsets the apple cart here in OZ more so when we up power limits?.
That said,
when the injector pump upgrade was done, the mechanic mentioned to me he plugs off the bypass altogether as an fix for TD's over heating issues.
Time for a towing test.
"Tridon" hi flow thermostat update.
Caravan 2.5t on, Held speed at 90 Kph 4th gear M1 Ourimbah hill.
Which is a about 2.5k climb, loaded & you'll know about it and be down shifting, a descent hill to gauge things off.
held speed well, enough right boot only to hold speed @ 90k.
Outside temp was about 27c
Temp climbed to 105 C fairly quickly and settled there.
It took a little while to recover on the flat cruising again in 5th.
Humm----more stable than a std thermostat,
rose a bit slower but not that much slower, think it would give you a bit more confidence.
Biggest improvement (not that big) was cruising.
Cruising 5th gear 100 Kph on the flat sat about 82-93 C depending on grade.
OEM cluster gauge sat in the middle "the whole time" didn't realy move.
forgot to look at pyro (dumb ass) watching time also had to start work, went out of way for the test.
Going to either remove the last 2 lower outer bars on bull bar to open up air flow more & or spotties.
spots & winch have reduced air flow (derr) way more than I like, always learning.
may sound fussy, want a keeper and maintain good travel times.
Caravan is large compared to car and provides alot of wind resistance over n above the 2.5t load.
just want the best out come possible.
yeah yeah lift the boot, last resort.
Good on you robo. Always good to see people keeping the threads going with good feedback.
Removed the outer bars this arvo (grrrr camera flat cant find charger lead).
think it came up ok for a bloke with no sheet metal work skills.
Attachment 70746
air flow has improved a littlebit, small improvement in cooling.