I can't talk for the Di's but CRD's love boost as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I wasn't running mine at 25 but up to 20 was common.
I can't talk for the Di's but CRD's love boost as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I wasn't running mine at 25 but up to 20 was common.
I dragged my 1.4t camper 8 hours mate and my egt's rarely hit 400c. Most of the time it sat around 320c on the flat 'ish sections. So I'd be wary of egt's seeing 600c.Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
Yep, a Diesel is a Diesel is a Diesel...
jam as much air in as you can get away with,
compress it as much as you can get away with,
shove as much fuel in as you can get away with,
wait for the bang then get whats left out as quick as you can so you can start all over.
The biggest single thing that makes a Diesel complicated is pollution control
Hey mudski how many psi do you have at 100kmh?
When you guys are talking about running 20-25psi boost, is that just a peak before it drops down or is it steady at that boost?
I'm talking max continuous boost IE constant 32 PSI on the Scangauge MAP indication.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Trol
Not sure about the Mudman but IRCC he has his wound up more and is also talking max continuous but I'm sure he'll post up when he sees the thread.
OK. I have set the Scangauge to show boost by subtracting 14.7 psi from MAP so that is why I was freaking out at the numbers you are talking about. Maybe I should switch to MAP so I get a more accurate reading. Just need to recalibrate my mind so I understand the figures I am reading.
So in general terms cruising at 100kph something around 27 MAP would be good and under load 30-32?
Been driving in the lower ratio on the auto, as you would expect EGTs were similar to a manual DI.
Makes sense more revs so gas gets out quicker so lower EGTs
And yes mine will hit 20 psi but it wont stay there [spikes]
I would say EGTs only slightly higher than Mudski
thats the difference between a manual and an auto I suppose.
Next trip to the Murray I might sit on 100kph in the lower ratio and see what happens
@ Mego Id be getting worried with temps that high,
maybe back the chip off two marks and see if that helps
IMHO (I posted similar to this somewhere else recently) MAP is more relevant than boost pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Trol
Why? Because the reason the ECU monitors intake pressure is so it can limit boost to the engine cylinder pressure specification.
MAP is an absolute reading at the manifold so;
MAP X Compression ratio = Cylinder Pressure no matter what the loacal atmospheric pressure is.
Boost Pressure is the differential pressure across the Turbo IE Turbo outlet pressure - Turbo inlet pressure = Boost Pressure
Boost pressure is not an absolute, it is gauge reading so boost needs atmospheric added to it IE;
Boost Pressure + Atmospheric Pressure X Compression ratio = Cylinder Pressure
Atmospheric is a variable depending on temperature, altitude and air density
Atmospheric pressure of 14.7 is only true at sea level with an air temp of 15 degrees and standard air density.
Now the difference between the lowest and highest atmospheric pressures you will experince driving in Oz isn't a lot.
Only a couple of PSI at most but IMHO if you have MAP available it is better to use it.
Thanks ET. The reason I changed the scangauge from MAP to boost was because most people use this when posting on forums so it was easier to follow what was going on. I will change it back to MAP.
What MAP psi should I be looking at?
- Cruising at 100kph - 27?
- Foot to the floor? (35-40?)