That is good news
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That is good news
Total rebuild or is it a partial build? I.e just the affected bores...
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeeYouCRD
Wow, that is amazing .... I would have sworn that head was a throw away...... maybe the CRD head will turn out to be a little more robust than the Di head for heat issues and cracking ....
Mic
Full Head service and rebore & hone of all cylinders, crank polish, full engine rebuild kit ie. new pistons, rings, gudgeons, bearings and gaskets. Should be good as new.
Not too bad for around $2500 (plus my time). Got it back on friday, looks good, will start to reassemble motor this week.
That's good to hear, and the price seems reasonable as well. Now you'll know that you have a good engine, a good outcome that could have been much worse.
Yeah Im pretty happy.Considering I bought it at a really good price, and in 3 years and 70,000km apart from materials for regular servicing have had to spent allmost nothing on it. (apart from all the accesories and goodies). Being able to do the work yourself sure does save $$$ on these vehicles. Like you say Ill know I have good engine now (and a nice clean intake manifold). Not owning since new your never sure what shape its in. But also have a fair bit more faith in the 3.0lt common rail now as apart from the loose oil pump bolts and damage from them (which should not happen again) the engine was like new at 180,000kms. Also now that there are 4 years worth of common rails out of warranty, aftermarket parts are becoming more available and cheaper.
Just a question. Are the oil pump bolts held in by LocTite or locking tabs or are they just set to a certain tension?
How much work is involved in getting the timing cover off while still on car to get to the oil pump bolts.
Nah, there is no loctite or locking tabs, there are eleven short 5mm countersunk phillips head bolts and two long 5mm hex head bolts. I will be using medium strength loctite on them. I really think they just were not all torqued correctly as the 2 hex bolts were tight and 2 of the phillips head bolts I had to use an impact driver on. Ive done a quite a few kms on corragated roads including the gibb river road and think this may have exaggerated the problem. If it spent its whole life on the blacktop maybe might never happen, but thats not what these vehicles are for. You need to take the timing case, not just the timing cover, off to get to them off to get to them. And the timing case is silconed and bolted to the block, head and sump, I think it could possibly be done in the car, but extremly difficult. They could probably be inspected (but not tightened) with just the timing cover off with an inspection camera or maybe a small telescopic mirror. Or even if you just pulled out the cranshaft pulley and inspected through there with mirror or camera might be the easiest way to at least check them.
Just to add, In all my research this only seems to have occurred on 2007 and 2008 (common rail) engines. And can only find first hand accounts of it happenning on 2007 models.