All Things Chev

Might have touched on this in another thread, but since I installed a Redarc Battery Management System with a temp gauge on the Aux Battery, I have been very concerned about the heat from the exhaust. Around town I was constantly getting temps of 38-39 degrees, and during a test run where I worked the engine hard up some slow dirt tracks in 4WD, the battery heated up to 48 degrees.

Yesterday I fashioned up a bit of a heat guard and drilled some air holes in the battery box as well.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...pst0b0vf4r.jpg

Also welded on half a chain link to the large pin that holds the whole battery box in place and allows it to swivel down. This pin was previously a pain in the ass to remove or to align properly when putting the locking bolt through it. Now works a charm.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...psedaqnphk.jpg

I am a bit dubious as to whether this will make a whole lot of difference or not. If it doesn't, then I am down to doing something else with the exhaust or moving the battery.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Ten grand for install of a 4L85E at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns, I just double checked. Gryphon work with/for Brunswick, so I'd guess it would be same price over that side of Aus.

I don't know whether it would be worth getting the 4L85 over the 4L80 or not, nor what the price difference is.

I do however have access to a mate with a hoist and mechanical ability, so if a reco gearbox was not a big job, then that is what I will consider doing. I have been very close to wanting to install a low range reduction gear at the moment as well. However I could save on that and put it towards an Auto.

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I totally believe ya, cobber... just I must be missing something for Brunnies to want $10 big ones...

I don't get it and I don't know what I'm missing.

Maybe try a few of the performance Auto Tranny joints over your way for a price. I mean to say they do the 4l80's for cars that have 750 or more RWHP every day of the week. If the box and engine length is the same as factory so no driveshaft work is involved then it won't matter a rats if it is a Patrol or a Commodore if you supply the Transfer Case adapter.

The Patrol would need a different stall speed etc on the TC but that isn't a show stopper

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Might have touched on this in another thread, but since I installed a Redarc Battery Management System with a temp gauge on the Aux Battery, I have been very concerned about the heat from the exhaust. Around town I was constantly getting temps of 38-39 degrees, and during a test run where I worked the engine hard up some slow dirt tracks in 4WD, the battery heated up to 48 degrees.

Yesterday I fashioned up a bit of a heat guard and drilled some air holes in the battery box as well.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...pst0b0vf4r.jpg

I am a bit dubious as to whether this will make a whole lot of difference or not. If it doesn't, then I am down to doing something else with the exhaust or moving the battery.

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Well…. the heat guard made no difference what-so-ever. Maybe half a degree if I was lucky. Temps driving around town hit 39 again today. Tomorrow I head off for three days with the eldest daughter for a camping/fishing trip which will involve highway, dirt roads and 4wdriving and should be a good test of just how hot the bloody batteries will get. Am already starting to think I will have to do something major to rectify this.

looks like you have access to a nice workshop there

You could try some heat wrap arount the exhaust, that may reduce the heat around the battery area.

Yeah, after hours I am able to use it no worries. Bloody handy that's for sure.

Re the exhaust wrap - I have wrapped the area immediately adjacent to the battery, but really the whole area gets hot from radiating heat and I probably need to wrap a good six feet of exhaust for it to work at all.

I was just told that there is a spray on ceramic type coating that can be used to keep the heat inside the pipe. I haven't researched this yet, but I'm thinking it is a job for a pro and might be expensive.

Makes me wonder what the engine bay temperature gets to as well.

G'day gents,

I have finally made up my mind to sell my current 4.2 turbo diesel patrol wagon and head down the chev Patrol path. After my recuperation from my recent bowel surgery, i will put back my Patrol to its original factory set-up and sell the vehicle.

At present i have an opportunity to purchase a 2003 Patrol with a 6.5 turbo intercooled motor with an auto gearbox set-up.

PS, i will keep you all informed on my progress, firstly i have to properly from my surgery!

Regards,

RLI

Going on your past performance, I can't wait to see what you end up doing to it….

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Going on your past performance, I can't wait to see what you end up doing to it….

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G'day BenK,

You know me mate, i have to know the inner workings of things and them make them perform better. lol

Regards,

RLI

The first thing you might want to do is get the Auxiliary Battery mounted somewhere other than under the vehicle right beside the exhaust. It won't fit in the engine bay with the side mounted turbo, but on my last little highway run and off road camping trip, the exhaust is heating my battery up to 48 and 49 degrees. I now have a piece of that air-cell silver insulation in there as well, but nothing I make or put in there to shield it from the heat seems to be working. I am now considering pulling it out altogether but don't know where I can put it as I have a set of draws in the cargo area.

I think I need to talk to some exhaust specialists, or I will be shortening one of the drawers somehow and mounting the battery in behind.