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Nice clean looking stuff John. The "bush hook" looks tough as mate:) So what bolts do you recomend for it? (and what bolts do you recomend in general for all your fittings?)
What is the last pic of? Looks like something for a GU?
and im guessing the wheel cover unlocks to utilise the room in there for storage? Do you do them to fit many size tyres?
Just asking for myself and other people that might be interested:)
The wheel is fake, it's hinged in the middle to open up.Theres no wheel in there. Holds jumper leads ,straps, shackles etc. only use GRADE 8 or better and ZINC plated. last pic is a cover I made for my GU after I removed the rear seats. my spare wheel is mounted internally, plus gets the weight off the door. lots of custom stuff on my truck.
I have a Mav, currently with the factory alloy bar.
I fitted Outback Ideas GQ/Mav style loops, bought through TJM last year.
I used the base plate from the Nissan loop as the plate to hold by welded on captive nuts. I don't really know what effect welding has on the temper etc of those nuts. I bought some long nuts thinking that would help, and longer high tensile bolts for both sides. The alloy bar went back on.
I also fitted a hook to each side.
I intend to use a bridle for all recoveries - hence the hook on each chassis rail.
bridles a good idea, but still not rated as you or I would not have a clue what they would break at. bogged to your guts guy pulls up with troll fitted with 454 and tries to pull you out full noise, it aint gunna be pretty. hear stories all the time. best to fit something that was made to do that job whatever it is
Well, threedogs, like you i wouldn't be snatched out if bogged to the guts means down on the diffs, or even more so, down on the rails, without a lot of spade work first. I would no longer be down on the rails. I have a hand winch for that purpose- works forwards, backwards and sideways, and even with a snatch block or two, only pulls so hard :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
And the bridle is one that is designed for that purpose, and is rated. And if anything is to fail, I would prefer it to be bridle or the strap.
And no one is going to snatch my patrol out at full noise, because I agree with you on that point.
Just edited my post above to make it clearer that I removed the front factory hook and fitted two Outback Ideas plates
Hi John,Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I'd be very interested to see that part of the rating report that covers attaching the various plates to the vehicle - I have a set of yours on the front of my GQ, and to a non engineer like me, they look indestructible.
It occurs to me that what could let them down is how and with what they are bolted up, and what the load rating is once attached to the chassis rails, or in the case of the rear loop, the chassis or whatever else is in behind the alloy back step.
some early GQs I,ve found have rusty chassis rails, yes they are very strong, I only rate them to the towing capacity of each 4x4, have seen copies rated up to 12 ton but thats just asking for trouble. all the Nissan ones I make break at 16plus ton. never had 1 fail yet as I like over engineering them, they need to be bullet proof. hard to get hold of a chassis to simulate it in sitcu for testing. have a look at the rear hook on my patrol, its pulled out cement trucks from work sites the lot. not as strong as the loop I make. BUT LIKE ALL RECOVERY EQUIPMENT inspect it now and then if it looks suss turf it, its not made to last a life time just a long time. You could beef up the rear cross frame if you had the time it wouldn't hurt.
so, looking at the front plate - the test rating is for the plate itself and not it bolted up the chassis as a complete unit?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I see perfectly what you say about the variable conditions of chassis rails now you mention it.
There are some photos on here, from Dubai or somewher over there, where chassis rails have been pulled sideways and horrible things have happened to bolt holes due to a snatch at an angle. From memory, it was in sand, but despite that a fair old tug was administered.
I don't think I have seen too many other posts where the front chassis has failed, compared with people who have personally experienced, or heard that the front factory hook itself had failed.
Thanks John
Rick
True the factory hook will fail, I've made recovery points for a few winch challenge trucks thats why they're so strong. If those guys can't break them they must be ok.
Maybe if anyone interested I should get custom ST stickers made to order with a nick name or the name of your truck?