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Newly installed fuel heater leaked after 45 minutes use. thread tape disintegrated and the heater element and socket are both parallel threads, so leaked. piss poor design to be honest. waiting for a response from the manufacturer in the US. Another bee sting.
Attachment 82143Attachment 82144. I think i will disassemble and redesign/build it to how it should have been in the first place and remove the high pressure drop across the device as well.
OK, manufacturer of the heater has responded. 'Use more teflon tape, we use the white stuff but the yellow is better because its thicker and will seal the threads better' - what a total joke of a response. Back into the garage I go to fix another dud product.
Have you got some thread sealant Phil? Not sure of the brand, but it's basically loctite. I use it instead of Teflon for 90% of my automotive stuff.. I'll see if I can find the tub of what I use. I find it's brilliant for that kind of thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
This;
Attachment 82157
Attachment 82158
It's out of date but still works. I use it on pretty much anything and everything. Don't find it locks up the threads too bad when you want to take it back apart either. Never had a leak with it.
Thanks very much. I have the straight PTFE liquid sealant and I think I may have a small container of something like that as well, remember seeing it during the garage clean up probably stored away now so i can't find it. PTFE should be fine, used it before - i suspect these guys have used sellotape by the look of it!
Found this stuff. typically use the Loctite in the white tube but Stag and the Mirror look like they would also suffice.Attachment 82159Attachment 82160
Use the stag. Make sure all surfaces are very clean. The other stuff that works well is the loctite hydraulic sealant. I use it a lot on all tapered fittings at work. Its a liquid and only requires a few drops like thread locker.
Edit- its loctite 569.
Installed the hose to link the two heads cooling circuit on the chev. There were issues with far earlier models of the 6.5 with overheating of cylinders against the firewall. The Optimiser redesign apparently fixed this, but I have done the mod anyway to be sure. The water flows out thru the heater and back to the motor. I simply have to have the heater line cracked to get the flow, which won't be a problem as the Interchiller has the a/c running all the time - won't even notice the heat.
Insulated and foil lagged the final aux hoses for the additional heat exchanger on the Interchiller, damn fiddly and time consuming, but now sure I have the best chance of holding the cooling water temps down where they are designed to run. Started in collating the on board spare so i know what I have and where its located.
Fabricated the storage box for the spare P/S pump and Vac Pump, had the necessary hoses made up by Pirtek today, all good, stored away in the back of the truck, hope I never have to use either.
Bought a set of the Marks4x4 over drive gears today. When they arrive I will get them fitted, happy days